Clutch Pedal SNAP OFF 8 Year Warranty-Recall ~~~
06-21-2009, 11:17 PM
#577
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BTW dont know if you guys know about this but if your gray stick thingy isnt getting pressed down all the way then you can give it a good tug and itll extend out more closer to the green tab thingy.
06-22-2009, 03:30 PM
#581
Certified Mazda Tech
Using your images, I'll try to explain what you need to do. It's really simple.
The black metal tab that holds the green pad needs to be bent toward the switch enough that when the clutch is depressed, the little notch on the neck of the white switch button disappears into the switch. That's all you need to do. A pair of vice grips should do the trick, without taking off the clutch peddle.
The black metal tab that holds the green pad needs to be bent toward the switch enough that when the clutch is depressed, the little notch on the neck of the white switch button disappears into the switch. That's all you need to do. A pair of vice grips should do the trick, without taking off the clutch peddle.
Its very simple.
Remove the switch, grab the plunger with your fingers, pull it firmly outwards (it seems like itll break, but it wont) you'll hear/feel a few clicks from the switch housing. Now reinstall it, move the clutch pedal. The clutch pedal will setup the switch properly.
Have to do this at the dealer on every install.
kevin.
06-22-2009, 04:00 PM
#582
Registered
Hey, thanks! That is much appreciated.
Actually that switch needs to *learn* the clutch pedal's travel.
Its very simple.
Remove the switch, grab the plunger with your fingers, pull it firmly outwards (it seems like itll break, but it wont) you'll hear/feel a few clicks from the switch housing. Now reinstall it, move the clutch pedal. The clutch pedal will setup the switch properly.
Have to do this at the dealer on every install.
kevin.
Its very simple.
Remove the switch, grab the plunger with your fingers, pull it firmly outwards (it seems like itll break, but it wont) you'll hear/feel a few clicks from the switch housing. Now reinstall it, move the clutch pedal. The clutch pedal will setup the switch properly.
Have to do this at the dealer on every install.
kevin.
06-22-2009, 05:09 PM
#585
Certified Mazda Tech
Glad that random bit of knowledge i had floating was useful lol, i thought it was common knowledge until i read through this
kevin.
06-27-2009, 02:29 PM
#587
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When driving home last week I heard a snap from my clutch peddle and it has been squeaking for a the past month. I babied it the last few blocks home. I looked under and didn't notice anything strange but I did notice a lot more flex (side to side) in my pedal. Maybe I'm just lucky it still works? No more squeak though.
Car has 80k on it. does the dealership replace/fix this problem for free since it is a factory defect?
Car has 80k on it. does the dealership replace/fix this problem for free since it is a factory defect?
06-28-2009, 02:02 AM
#589
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Mine just snapped on the hwy at speed while on my way to transformers. I limped to the theater and had to have her towed home. Sucked and now I need to figure a fix before monday.
06-28-2009, 12:10 PM
#590
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http://www.rotary4life.com/forum/showthread.php?t=265
Found this while googling cheaper solutions. Hopefully this helps anyone who needs a solution that isn't going to break the bank in our rough economy.
Found this while googling cheaper solutions. Hopefully this helps anyone who needs a solution that isn't going to break the bank in our rough economy.
06-29-2009, 07:38 PM
#591
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I had the dealer replace mine few months ago, was squeaking bad, at first all they changed was the clutch switch, but the squeaking sound never went away, so took it to another dealer and showed them, it was even vibrating when you depressed the pedal, but the dealer replaced the the whole clutch pedal assembly.
07-15-2009, 01:16 PM
#593
Registered
AWESOME! I just got my email from the DOT in response to my filing a claim on Mazda about the clutch pedal issue and I have responded. It's taken them quite a while but at least it is in progress. They are very aware of this thread and the issue. I love it.
Everyone PLEASE go file a claim to drive this point home.
Everyone PLEASE go file a claim to drive this point home.
07-15-2009, 03:35 PM
#596
Registered
nycgps posted the link some where back in this thread, can't seem to find the direct link. But if you go to this site, you can dig around and find it: http://nhtsa.gov/
Actually it wasn't a "claim" I filed, it was a report. Sorry about that.
Actually it wasn't a "claim" I filed, it was a report. Sorry about that.
07-15-2009, 04:03 PM
#597
ThEy MaDe Me Do It
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Yeah, I just got my e-mail from them also and replied.
Dozer, here is the address that is in my e-mail.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm
Dozer, here is the address that is in my e-mail.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm
09-06-2009, 09:42 AM
#600
Registered
For some time now, I've been concerned about this clutch bracket. I've had difficulty in visualizing how it works from the pictures, so I finally had a look at it last night. I saw things quite a bit differently.
These spot welds are not intended to hold this bracket together. They are simply there as a tack to hold the back piece to the front for assembly. In fact you can cut these welds off and throw the back piece away. Replace it with two long bushings for the proper separation to the firewall. Bolt everything back up properly and you shouldn't notice much effect of the change.
On pressing the pedal, the primary force tries to push the main part of the bracket towards the driver. This is resisted in two ways. The least desirable way is by the two nuts and bolts at the firewall. This puts stress in the member in that area which can cause it to tear in some cases. If this is the main area where the forces are being resisted, then you might feel some slopiness, or hear creaking or squeaking as things move. I wouldn't be surprised if the weld could initiate a fracture through material embrittlement.
The better way to hold everything together is with that third bolt (See #10 in this thread https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-clutch-pedal-bracket-removal-fix-170387/page2/). If this bolt is properly tightened, it prevents movement of the assembly, and there will be no significant stress in the region of the firewall bolts (although these bolts must also be tight to ensure there is no gap at the firewall. This captures the whole assembly between the firewall and dash structures so it cannot move. If it cannot move, it cannot apply stress to the nut/bolt area at the firewall.
So make sure your bolts are tight. If you want added insurance, have a look at that picture #10 again. See that hole in the dash structure to the left of the arrow just behind the bracket? Force a large screw in there to help keep the bracket from moving back (and maybe put a bit of compressive load on it by forcing it forward with a big enough screw). Loosen the bolt first.
These spot welds are not intended to hold this bracket together. They are simply there as a tack to hold the back piece to the front for assembly. In fact you can cut these welds off and throw the back piece away. Replace it with two long bushings for the proper separation to the firewall. Bolt everything back up properly and you shouldn't notice much effect of the change.
On pressing the pedal, the primary force tries to push the main part of the bracket towards the driver. This is resisted in two ways. The least desirable way is by the two nuts and bolts at the firewall. This puts stress in the member in that area which can cause it to tear in some cases. If this is the main area where the forces are being resisted, then you might feel some slopiness, or hear creaking or squeaking as things move. I wouldn't be surprised if the weld could initiate a fracture through material embrittlement.
The better way to hold everything together is with that third bolt (See #10 in this thread https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-clutch-pedal-bracket-removal-fix-170387/page2/). If this bolt is properly tightened, it prevents movement of the assembly, and there will be no significant stress in the region of the firewall bolts (although these bolts must also be tight to ensure there is no gap at the firewall. This captures the whole assembly between the firewall and dash structures so it cannot move. If it cannot move, it cannot apply stress to the nut/bolt area at the firewall.
So make sure your bolts are tight. If you want added insurance, have a look at that picture #10 again. See that hole in the dash structure to the left of the arrow just behind the bracket? Force a large screw in there to help keep the bracket from moving back (and maybe put a bit of compressive load on it by forcing it forward with a big enough screw). Loosen the bolt first.
Last edited by Delmeister; 09-06-2009 at 09:45 AM.