My clutch started to squeak on Sunday. (63k mileage) I searched and found this post. I am thinking to take it off and have it welded by some local workshop. The problem I have now is that I can't take any of the bolts off! It is also very hard to do that under the wheel.

Maybe the tool I use is too small or too simple. I am wondering what tool you recommend to use. I would appreciate if someone can show me the pictures.

 

I laid on my back (on the floor mat) and just looked-up.
I found it easier to remove the foot rest to give my right arm more room.
Use a 12mm DEEP SOCKET and an extension to remove the nuts.
I used a swivel on the upper-left nut.

 

^ Agreed. I managed it with just a deep socket, no u joint or swivel. BUT a deep socket is pretty much necessary. Get a good shop light and just lay on your back to get the top bolt. I laid on my right side with my *** hanging out the car; laying over the door sill with the seat back to get the rest. I'm ambidextrous though.

BLUF: get a 12mm deep socket. The plastic nuts just hand turn off.

 

i bought my stock 04 used last august at 50k.. it broke around 56k

 

yep, lay on the floor mat to take it out. much easier that way (even tho its not very comfy)

 

Thanks! I got mine off today, finally. I am going to some welding shop tomorrow.

 

Take the plastic switches and pads off. You don't want the heat to damage them.

 

Thanks for reminding me to take the switches and pads off.

I put welded clutch back on my car. Now I have a very stupid problem: I can't start the engine with clutch pressed... I checked it over and over again. I am sure that when I pressed the clutch all the way down, the switch was not pressed deep enough to let me start the engine. I am sure the switch is not broken because I could start the engine when I pressed the switch with my hand and turned the key.

I am wondering that maybe I should take the clutch off and put it on again.

 

You're doing it wrong.

either the welder weld it wrong. or you installed it wrong.

 

I might damaged the switch. Where can I buy one?

 

The problem is you do not have enough pressure on the switch when the clutch is depressed. You need to take some vice grips and bend the metal just a little to get contact. I can take some pics in a little while. Don't do anything until I get back to you. You should be fine. I helped someone over the phone take care of this problem. If you want I will talk you through it as well. But it would be good to document it here for others to see.

You can test this by depressing the switch by hand while starting the car just to show you that everything is OK.

I'll PM you my phone number and you call me about 10:00PM EST or later.

 

^ Yup I had the same problem. I scratched my head for about five minutes, pushed the sensor in with my hand and started the car like that in neutral. I didn't get it. But I just pulled the metal tab a little closer and everything is 100%.

I don't know what causes the tab to be too far away after strengthening welds, but whatever.

 

Using your images, I'll try to explain what you need to do. It's really simple.

The black metal tab that holds the green pad needs to be bent toward the switch enough that when the clutch is depressed, the little notch on the neck of the white switch button disappears into the switch. That's all you need to do. A pair of vice grips should do the trick, without taking off the clutch peddle.

 

Thanks SilverEIGHT!! It works!! Oh Yeah!


But why do I need to bend the metal after welding the clutch? Anyway, it works!!

 

I don't have an explanation. I do know that it happens repeatedly though. Not with everyone. Glad I could help you. Congrats being back up and running.

 

^ I think what might be the cause (it happened to me) is that if you do a good job welding, you might reinforce the metal so much that it sits closer to the firewall and flexes less than it used to. With the less flex, it might not be "calibrated" right to get the sensor to notch depth, if that makes sense?

 

Hey guys. Newbie to the site here.
So even after reading the fairly numerous things wrong going on with this car, I still decided I had to have one. Stupid idea or not. I love the look and feel and have driven RX-7's for the past 20 years (I am almost 49). I purchased a red , 2004 GT with 37,000 miles, MT, red/black leather, etc. So I knew before I got the car that I should plan on pre-mixing. Never done it before but sounded easy enough, a really good idea considering the flawed rotor design, and well worth the time and little bit of trouble. The previous owner just had a new battery put in, but don't know if it is an exact factory replacement or an upgrade. It cranks and always starts but averages between 2-3 seconds to 5-6 seconds before it kicks over. I can't imagine this when cold weather gets here. It would have to make this even worse. I am having my Mazda tech look it over this week, especially the starting to see what he thinks. He really does know his way around a rotary. Any suggestions to help the starting situation from you guys? Also, and especially, here's the biggest concern I have. I have been reading this forum about the clutch bracket breaking and would really like it taken care of. Sounds like the Mazsport brackets are a fix? Well guys, even though I have driven rotaries for a long while I am not much of a mechanic. I wouldn't have the know how, ability, or anything else to install these brackets. Yes, it's unfortunate, but my Mazda dealership has made LOTS of money off me on my past RX-7's. So, that being said, is there anyone you know of in Louisville, KY or anywhere in my surrounding area who could help me out? That sure would be great. I've got so many questions about different things I've read on here including upgrading the coils? Upgrading the plugs? The previous owner has had the recalls done. Does that mean she had upgraded plugs installed? Like I said, many questions. I always feel alone around here in being able to have questions answered or things done.
Sorry to be so long winded but you guys seem great, and have already helped me learn alot about the car. Just need to figure out how to get it done.
Thanks a bunch.
David

 

^I think the long starting period is pretty common. It helps when your plugs are clean, so I clean mine every five thousand miles. Make sure you get the reflash and update on the ECU. But regardless, mine starts in about four seconds usually.

Back to the real deal at hand; the bracket. Honestly just get it welded. It'll be a GREAT CHEAP fix.

 

took me and noodleboy 4 hours to fit the damn clutch bracket on last night... that **** was a bitch putting it back, but i was so glad i did it when i did because that **** was about to break completely.

 

ha ha ha.... what was the problem getting it back on? It really shouldn't be that hard?

 

the holes weren't lining up properly.. we tried jamming it back in, but just ended up drilling the holes bigger and it fit like a glove. no problems any more... but now my fawk'n brake light switch snapped off...... haha what are the chances

 

dude? It should've popped on and off? I don't get why you had to drill out the holes. That blows my mind. You must have been doing SOMETHING wrong!?

Sucks on the switch. Should be easy enough to replace through the garage though.

 

Edited, see below

 

Oh damn, I hate that! So, you had a warranty replacement and she popped after 14,545 mi. That's freaking ridiculous! But frankly, I'm surprised you didn't reinforce it, knowing all we have discussed in this thread. You've been part of this for a long time. Will they cover it again? What do you intend to do with it, get it welded and repair or replace?

Did anyone every comment on the 09, if it has been re-designed?

 

Okay, I guess I better get off my *** and get that Mazsport bracket on that has been collecting dust in my garage!!!!!!