so my clutch pedal started squeaking even louder recently, is there a way to prevent the squeaking/breaking. The Clutch Pedal Reinforcement Bracket that race roots offers the only fix for this besides welding?

 

Yep.

'course if you're still under warranty you can wait for it to break and get it replaced. But for me it wasn't worth that aggravation.

 

im way out of warranty so i think ill just buy the reinforcement bracket soon before mine snaps on me.

 

We're seeing a second break now? Geez.

A while ago my pedal squeaked and the dealer greased "it" as a solution. It hasn't really made noise since, but I've always felt that there was either something wrong with it, or that my tranny is toast. Thing is, the angle and position that I depress the clutch from seems to effect shifting behavior.

Hopefully a safety recall where they replace the brackets of all concerned owners comes of this, broken or not. Certainly isn't "safe" to make owners wait and see.

 

if they found this to be a problem (very possible), they will force Mazda to redesign the whole bracket.

Changing the material to something harder might not work because it might change the crash test result.

Lets see what NHTSA gonna do.

and as always, if you're having an issue/had an issue. Go report it !

 

Just had they same issue , and I'm filing a report as we speak...

 

A lot of the squeaking can be caused by a clutch bearing. Mine is noisy when the car is cold. It's not a big deal; just noise.

 

Well had another customer call me today so far I have seen 4 assemblies where they have been Re-Welded and still snapped...

 

this is clearly a design defect.

Its pretty easy to resolve it Mazda,

just use better than that 0.5 mm sheet metal and weld a few more spots for our's sake

 

OK i just filed a report.

Upon further investigation I think my clutch creaking sound is coming from the little blue plastic ring that is like a washer/grommet between the spring and metal plates. Please refer to picture.

I can see the plastic ring moving when I use my hand to push the clutch pedal in, it looks like the piece is cracked or loose and makes the noise I hear as it moves.

Does anyone know where I can get a part to replace that little blue ring? Thanks!

 

Yes, that blue plastic washer is another weak design element. Mine doesn't creak from it very often and is intact, but every once in awhile....

At least my spring hasn't worn its way thru the housing as some members have.

In an otherwise well designed vehicle (exception ignition system) this clutch pedal assembly in whole is a disappointment. It's like the human factors engineers took a holiday when it was being designed! Any place where there's human-machine interface requires extra consideration since the gamut of use is so wide.

 

Here is the damage caused when my pedal decided to break.
Driving down the road at 35mph, pressed clutch to shift gears, <SNAP>.

Flywheel had to be replaced because of 'Hot Spotting'
Clutch Disc obviously got hot enough to turn blue, which happens at about 1000degC (annealing temperature) - where the metal begins to become brittle

Pedal - $250.12
Disc - $229.17
Pressure Plate - $286.12
Fly Wheel - $221.81
Throwout Bearing - $68.72
Misc Costs - ~$30
Labor - $624.00

Total Cost - $1748.08
Time for Replacement - 1 week (exactly)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

wow, that's some serious ****.

 

Did you see this TSB? http://www.finishlineperformance.com...11-06-1724.pdf

My dealer lubed my clutch pedal and it still squeaked. They have ordered this part but its taking weeks to get in. Car has to still be under b2b warranty tho.

 

laserjock, I've not heard of the clutch going because of the pedal snapping. If the clutch is inactive, how does it get hot? Just wondering! I'm not mechanically inclined enough to understand.

 

Did you file a report on the pedal snapping? See earlier posts.
I believe that the rest is not related to the pedal snapping.

 

I'm beginning to wonder if the US government will do anything about this until someone dies because of it.

 

I read the TSB on another thread too.
The noise happens when the pedal is pushed past the point where the clutch switch is fully disengaged, so I think the noise in this case isn't caused by the switch.
Thanks for bringing the TSB to my attention.

 

the stock clutch comes with that blue finish. just an fyi.

sorry to hear what happened. something really needs to be done.

 

That's what it usually takes. At the very least, they'd be looking for some accidents.

Ken

 

THIS IS CRAZY. How many times do I have to fill out a report? I just got another email asking basically for the same stuff I've already said to the two other people and emails they sent me. They are really taking a good old time aren't they. Anyone else get a third email from the gov?

 

I got my 2nd email from a "different" guy.

asking pretty much the same questions.

*sigh*

 

I got my 2nd email from a "different" guy.

asking pretty much the same questions.

*sigh*

 

Do you mind providing details of what you did when your clutch went out? Your damages are inconsistent with a complete clutch failure.

 

I can't believe I've been frequenting this board for 6 months now and I haven't yet heard of this before. People are always talking about premixing, coils, short shifters, clear corners and apex seals, but I've not seen this until now.

My reverse has always been really hard to engage - sometimes I can't get it to lock so I have to hold the pressure into reverse as I release the clutch and hit the throttle to get it to engage. In the past 4-5k miles my 2nd gear has been grinding even with the clutch pressed fully (('04 w/ 45k (now) in AZ, all stock)). It was only occasionally, and usually when driving from cold, but happening more often with time. So at 45k I just recently replaced the differential fluid with Amsoil 75-110 plus 2oz. Amsoil friction modifier, and the transmission with 25% Amsoil Synchromesh and 75% Amsoil syn GL4. The shifting was immediately smoother, but the grinding seemed to get worse over the first 2 weeks after the change. I read about blipping to 4k RPMs in neutral before driving to splash lube the transmission, and since doing that the past week I haven't had any grinding so far. Maybe the grinding was worse at first because of the simultaneous change in AZ temps to cool weather, or maybe the transmission was adjusting to the new synthetic fluid which could have been dislodging buildup of metal particles (the magnetic plugs both had thick sludge stuck on them).

Anyway, the 2nd gear grinding search led me here. I just inspected my car and I don't see any evident signs of tearing or splitting at the welds. The white plastic bolt was loose so I tightened that. The others aren't loose to the touch, but I didn't try tightening anything with wrenches. I'm ordering the reinforcement bracket, and down the road when I've finished the timing on my other car, I might also take it out to have my ex-Navy welder friend do some solid work. I noticed that the clutch assembly does easily bend and give when the pedal is pulled sideways. The throttle is likewise very weak, but the throttle assembly is not receiving nearly as much pressure or travel as the clutch assembly. And I think the clutch is always going to have a certain degree of lateral pressure from different sized people with different driving styles.

Props to NY for getting this investigated. I'd hate to have mine snap while flying down the freeway or downshifting through a turn. Glad that I found this before mine showed visible signs of failure, I'm right at the magic 45k mile mark that lots seem to fail at. When I install the bracket, I'll also check the tensions with a wrench, adjust the travel play, and flush the clutch fluid.

This needs more visibility in the forums.