Clutch Pedal SNAP OFF 8 Year Warranty-Recall ~~~
The hardest part is getting into position laying on your back looking up. It's a tight squeeze and if you were bifocals like me, you have to go more by feel. 
I wish I had put a video together. I've done several of these. I'll try to DIY it next time for those of you that want to correct this issue before you get bit. Also I will document your alternatives. But stress the importance of preventative maintenance. All has been discussed here already but I think I'll put a web page up on it.

I wish I had put a video together. I've done several of these. I'll try to DIY it next time for those of you that want to correct this issue before you get bit. Also I will document your alternatives. But stress the importance of preventative maintenance. All has been discussed here already but I think I'll put a web page up on it.
The stock/OE bracket has "ultra stupid *** whack weak welds" that will "eventually" break ...
Mine is over 10K miles now (last one broke, see first post, LOL) ... and stupid *** Manhattan Mazda dealership tried to blame it on clutch ... yeah ok ... and talk **** to the Mazda Tech Line ... 1 time repair. pst.
Lets just hope this PoS bracket never caused any accident ... sheesh.
Mine is over 10K miles now (last one broke, see first post, LOL) ... and stupid *** Manhattan Mazda dealership tried to blame it on clutch ... yeah ok ... and talk **** to the Mazda Tech Line ... 1 time repair. pst.
Lets just hope this PoS bracket never caused any accident ... sheesh.
These are your options and #1 is by far the easiest, most cost efficient, and time saving. Sorry, I don't have time to put the cost together right this moment.
1. Weld assembly before/after snap.
2. Purchase a new assembly.
3. Purchase a remanufactured assembly before/after snap.
4. Install bracket before/after snap.
5. Weld assembly before/after snap and install bracket also.
1. Weld assembly before/after snap.
2. Purchase a new assembly.
3. Purchase a remanufactured assembly before/after snap.
4. Install bracket before/after snap.
5. Weld assembly before/after snap and install bracket also.
This may be a stupid question, but is it obvious where the welding needs to be done on the bracket? Also, is it recommended to purchase the reinforcement bracket as well or do you just need to have the OEM bracket welded?
I think what he meant was, if he gets it welded, is there a point to getting the reinforcement bracket, or does welding totally solve the problem on its own.
That's basically the question I've had, but I've not seen a straight answer whether you should both weld it and get the bracket, or only do one of those.
That's basically the question I've had, but I've not seen a straight answer whether you should both weld it and get the bracket, or only do one of those.
the problem i see with welding is that the metal is so thin. you can literally bend the assembly by hand. so yeah, the new welds may hold, but the whole thing just seems kind of flimsy to me. but maybe its not an issue since the metal is inline with the pedal. you arent bending it from the side with the foot or anything, but still...
the bracket that is on the fluid motorsports website is strong. it really reinforces the assembly. i cant say enough good things about it.
the bracket that is on the fluid motorsports website is strong. it really reinforces the assembly. i cant say enough good things about it.
Thanks for the replies. The only thing I'm really concerned about is the switches. Are they easy to replace? Also there's no DIY to remove the clutch pedal? Can you guys give me some tips on how to take it out? It doesn't seem that straightforward as mentioned in another thread. lol Yeah, sorry I'm a little new at this.
switches? u talking about the clutch cut switch or the other one?
Anywayz, both are EASY to do.
The pedal itself? its being hold by couple of bolts only. 1 of them is plastic too(correct me if wrong)
Anywayz, both are EASY to do.
The pedal itself? its being hold by couple of bolts only. 1 of them is plastic too(correct me if wrong)
Well it just happened to me with 83,??? miles can't remember how many. All I can say is holy hell is it hard trying to drive. I had to take my shoe's off so I could hold it straight while pushing it in and pulling it back out.
I've seen people talking about the pedal, but I thought it was the pedal itself and not the case around it
. Mine started squeeking and trying to get in fourth at high rpm's it had a little problem, don't know if it's related yet until I get the bracket reinforced.
Will be reporting sir NYC to the nhtsa in order to save someone from having a horrible accident. If it wasn't for all the people on this site mazda would be having a field day with people wasting money on things you shouldn't have to.
I've seen people talking about the pedal, but I thought it was the pedal itself and not the case around it
. Mine started squeeking and trying to get in fourth at high rpm's it had a little problem, don't know if it's related yet until I get the bracket reinforced.Will be reporting sir NYC to the nhtsa in order to save someone from having a horrible accident. If it wasn't for all the people on this site mazda would be having a field day with people wasting money on things you shouldn't have to.
I hope I can get it done tommorrow. I'll go to the shop and weld it until I can get a bracket. To bad I didn't know it was going when it started to squeek, I could of drove the car to the shop instead of having to get rides all day.
I did notice that around the weld looked to be sorta light brown, don't know if it was rust or just from the weld. I'll take pictures of it and maybe make a diy if there isn't one I can't seem to find any using search, but I have a little bit of trouble with the search sometimes.
I did notice that around the weld looked to be sorta light brown, don't know if it was rust or just from the weld. I'll take pictures of it and maybe make a diy if there isn't one I can't seem to find any using search, but I have a little bit of trouble with the search sometimes.



