SilverEIGHT

The hardest part is getting into position laying on your back looking up. It's a tight squeeze and if you were bifocals like me, you have to go more by feel.

I wish I had put a video together. I've done several of these. I'll try to DIY it next time for those of you that want to correct this issue before you get bit. Also I will document your alternatives. But stress the importance of preventative maintenance. All has been discussed here already but I think I'll put a web page up on it.

kersh4w

iTrader: (3)

yeah, putting it back on is moderately harder. its still nothing that 5 minutes of cursing cant solve though.

GaMEChld

So, will the brackets completely solve the vulnerability to cracking? Is the welding merely the alternative to the bracket, or are there 2 separate issues at stake?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

The stock/OE bracket has "ultra stupid *** whack weak welds" that will "eventually" break ...

Mine is over 10K miles now (last one broke, see first post, LOL) ... and stupid *** Manhattan Mazda dealership tried to blame it on clutch ... yeah ok ... and talk **** to the Mazda Tech Line ... 1 time repair. pst.

Lets just hope this PoS bracket never caused any accident ... sheesh.

SilverEIGHT

These are your options and #1 is by far the easiest, most cost efficient, and time saving. Sorry, I don't have time to put the cost together right this moment.

1. Weld assembly before/after snap.
2. Purchase a new assembly.
3. Purchase a remanufactured assembly before/after snap.
4. Install bracket before/after snap.
5. Weld assembly before/after snap and install bracket also.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

1. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

thawk97

Anyone remember what size the bolts are? I know it's not hard to find out but it could save me a trip home to make sure I bring my entire socket set

GaMEChld

No idea personally, but so many bolts are 10mm. That's my guess, I'll wait for someone to post the right answer XD

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

12mm.
Best with a deep socket and a swivel is recommended for the upper-left bolt.

SilverEIGHT

... and extension.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Ah yes... forgot that one.

KraZy K 02

This may be a stupid question, but is it obvious where the welding needs to be done on the bracket? Also, is it recommended to purchase the reinforcement bracket as well or do you just need to have the OEM bracket welded?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

You can weld OEM bracket yourself if u know how.

but the point is the bracket shouldn't break like that.

GaMEChld

I think what he meant was, if he gets it welded, is there a point to getting the reinforcement bracket, or does welding totally solve the problem on its own.

That's basically the question I've had, but I've not seen a straight answer whether you should both weld it and get the bracket, or only do one of those.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Proper welding will solve the problem.

GaMEChld

I suppose I should take care of this eventually, probly before putting in my ACT Clutch stuff.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Yes... get the pedal fixed before installing the clutch.
It'll be more prone to failure with an upgraded clutch.

kersh4w

iTrader: (3)

the problem i see with welding is that the metal is so thin. you can literally bend the assembly by hand. so yeah, the new welds may hold, but the whole thing just seems kind of flimsy to me. but maybe its not an issue since the metal is inline with the pedal. you arent bending it from the side with the foot or anything, but still...

the bracket that is on the fluid motorsports website is strong. it really reinforces the assembly. i cant say enough good things about it.

KraZy K 02

Thanks for the replies. The only thing I'm really concerned about is the switches. Are they easy to replace? Also there's no DIY to remove the clutch pedal? Can you guys give me some tips on how to take it out? It doesn't seem that straightforward as mentioned in another thread. lol Yeah, sorry I'm a little new at this.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

switches? u talking about the clutch cut switch or the other one?

Anywayz, both are EASY to do.

The pedal itself? its being hold by couple of bolts only. 1 of them is plastic too(correct me if wrong)

KraZy K 02

Hmmm probably both. Do you need to remove switches to get to the clutch pedal or just the clutch cut switch?

syntheticdarkness

iTrader: (7)

Well it just happened to me with 83,??? miles can't remember how many. All I can say is holy hell is it hard trying to drive. I had to take my shoe's off so I could hold it straight while pushing it in and pulling it back out.

I've seen people talking about the pedal, but I thought it was the pedal itself and not the case around it. Mine started squeeking and trying to get in fourth at high rpm's it had a little problem, don't know if it's related yet until I get the bracket reinforced.

Will be reporting sir NYC to the nhtsa in order to save someone from having a horrible accident. If it wasn't for all the people on this site mazda would be having a field day with people wasting money on things you shouldn't have to.

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

dang synthetic, sorry to hear yours broke. Installing the replacement is pretty easy, hopefully you'll be back up and running soon

syntheticdarkness

iTrader: (7)

I hope I can get it done tommorrow. I'll go to the shop and weld it until I can get a bracket. To bad I didn't know it was going when it started to squeek, I could of drove the car to the shop instead of having to get rides all day.

I did notice that around the weld looked to be sorta light brown, don't know if it was rust or just from the weld. I'll take pictures of it and maybe make a diy if there isn't one I can't seem to find any using search, but I have a little bit of trouble with the search sometimes.

shazy

Lucky my clutch bracket looks perfect for now... don't care about the stupid bad luck...