Clutch not engaging / IMPOSSIBLE TO SHIFT
06-17-2013, 03:11 PM
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Clutch not engaging / IMPOSSIBLE TO SHIFT
Hey guys, so this morning i was driving before to go to work like usual ... After 20miles or so when the car got hot i got stuck at a stop sign... Couldnt shift back into any gears...called my friend that towed me to the nearest mazda garage who bleeded my clutch and said everything was fine... Came and picked it up, everything worked fine when cold once warmed up same shot again...
What can it be ? I tried searching but the only responses i found are bleed the clutch...
Thanks
What can it be ? I tried searching but the only responses i found are bleed the clutch...
Thanks
06-17-2013, 03:23 PM
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There are many causes for the clutch failing to engage (or failing to disengage).
I am guessing that you actually mean failing to disengage though, as the natural state of the clutch is engaged, you push the pedal in to disengage it.
Possible causes for the clutch to remain engaged when you push the pedal in:
- Air in the clutch hydraulic line
- clutch master cylinder failure
- clutch slave cylinder failure
- clutch disc has burst
- clutch disc has shattered
- clutch fork has come free of the release bearing
- pilot bearing failure
- release bearing failure
- clutch pedal assembly failure
If the problem is actually a failure to engage the clutch, as in it acts like you are just holding the pedal in, then it's probably not a specific failure of a part within the clutch. Since the normal state of the clutch is to be engaged, and in order for it to actually be stuck disengaged, something has to be holding the springs at the point of highest tension. This is highly unlikely. It is far more likely in this case that something has just removed the friction component of the clutch. Either a severely worn clutch or a rear main seal on the engine allowing oil to coat the clutch. Both of these could easily change symptoms over the course of a drive.
I am guessing that you actually mean failing to disengage though, as the natural state of the clutch is engaged, you push the pedal in to disengage it.
Possible causes for the clutch to remain engaged when you push the pedal in:
- Air in the clutch hydraulic line
- clutch master cylinder failure
- clutch slave cylinder failure
- clutch disc has burst
- clutch disc has shattered
- clutch fork has come free of the release bearing
- pilot bearing failure
- release bearing failure
- clutch pedal assembly failure
If the problem is actually a failure to engage the clutch, as in it acts like you are just holding the pedal in, then it's probably not a specific failure of a part within the clutch. Since the normal state of the clutch is to be engaged, and in order for it to actually be stuck disengaged, something has to be holding the springs at the point of highest tension. This is highly unlikely. It is far more likely in this case that something has just removed the friction component of the clutch. Either a severely worn clutch or a rear main seal on the engine allowing oil to coat the clutch. Both of these could easily change symptoms over the course of a drive.
06-17-2013, 03:31 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
There are many causes for the clutch failing to engage (or failing to disengage).
I am guessing that you actually mean failing to disengage though, as the natural state of the clutch is engaged, you push the pedal in to disengage it.
Possible causes for the clutch to remain engaged when you push the pedal in:
- Air in the clutch hydraulic line
- clutch master cylinder failure
- clutch slave cylinder failure
- clutch disc has burst
- clutch disc has shattered
- clutch fork has come free of the release bearing
- pilot bearing failure
- release bearing failure
- clutch pedal assembly failure
If the problem is actually a failure to engage the clutch, as in it acts like you are just holding the pedal in, then it's probably not a specific failure of a part within the clutch. Since the normal state of the clutch is to be engaged, and in order for it to actually be stuck disengaged, something has to be holding the springs at the point of highest tension. This is highly unlikely. It is far more likely in this case that something has just removed the friction component of the clutch. Either a severely worn clutch or a rear main seal on the engine allowing oil to coat the clutch. Both of these could easily change symptoms over the course of a drive.
I am guessing that you actually mean failing to disengage though, as the natural state of the clutch is engaged, you push the pedal in to disengage it.
Possible causes for the clutch to remain engaged when you push the pedal in:
- Air in the clutch hydraulic line
- clutch master cylinder failure
- clutch slave cylinder failure
- clutch disc has burst
- clutch disc has shattered
- clutch fork has come free of the release bearing
- pilot bearing failure
- release bearing failure
- clutch pedal assembly failure
If the problem is actually a failure to engage the clutch, as in it acts like you are just holding the pedal in, then it's probably not a specific failure of a part within the clutch. Since the normal state of the clutch is to be engaged, and in order for it to actually be stuck disengaged, something has to be holding the springs at the point of highest tension. This is highly unlikely. It is far more likely in this case that something has just removed the friction component of the clutch. Either a severely worn clutch or a rear main seal on the engine allowing oil to coat the clutch. Both of these could easily change symptoms over the course of a drive.
06-17-2013, 03:32 PM
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06-17-2013, 03:37 PM
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Can you clarify the exact symptoms you are seeing? Describe exactly what happens normally when it's cold, and describe exactly what happens differently when it's hot. Describe how the transmission feels through the shifter for each, as well as in each clutch position. Describe how the pedal feels in or out, in gear or in neutral. Describe if there is any difference in shifting feel while driving or while stopped, as well as with the engine off and you stopped.
06-17-2013, 03:52 PM
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Can you clarify the exact symptoms you are seeing? Describe exactly what happens normally when it's cold, and describe exactly what happens differently when it's hot. Describe how the transmission feels through the shifter for each, as well as in each clutch position. Describe how the pedal feels in or out, in gear or in neutral. Describe if there is any difference in shifting feel while driving or while stopped, as well as with the engine off and you stopped.
Warmed up , cant engage / disengage
Only when the car is off i can put it in gear but when i start it with my foot on the clutch it jump like if u start it in first and forgot to press the clutch, it comes gradually from perfect driving to griding noise while shifting and finally impossibility to chane gear and move i had to get towed twice today now the car is parked in front of mazda but they dont have a clue and i dont wanna pay 1000 bucks for that either
06-17-2013, 03:56 PM
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Can you clarify the exact symptoms you are seeing? Describe exactly what happens normally when it's cold, and describe exactly what happens differently when it's hot. Describe how the transmission feels through the shifter for each, as well as in each clutch position. Describe how the pedal feels in or out, in gear or in neutral. Describe if there is any difference in shifting feel while driving or while stopped, as well as with the engine off and you stopped.
06-17-2013, 04:15 PM
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Ok, so you just described that when hot, the clutch remains engaged, and will not disengage so that you can shift, or start the car without it lurching forward.
Your clutch hydraulics are the most likely point of failure. You could have contaminated brake fluid (Which is used for the clutch line too) with water absorption. As the engine and transmission heat up from driving, you could be vaporizing the water content in the brake fluid, creating gas bubbles. The bubbles compress with pressure, to the point that pushing in the clutch only compresses the gas bubbles and does not transmit that force into the clutch fork to push in the release bearing.
I would recommend a complete flush of your brake and clutch lines with brand new fluid.
If you STILL have problems, then replace the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder.
Your clutch hydraulics are the most likely point of failure. You could have contaminated brake fluid (Which is used for the clutch line too) with water absorption. As the engine and transmission heat up from driving, you could be vaporizing the water content in the brake fluid, creating gas bubbles. The bubbles compress with pressure, to the point that pushing in the clutch only compresses the gas bubbles and does not transmit that force into the clutch fork to push in the release bearing.
I would recommend a complete flush of your brake and clutch lines with brand new fluid.
If you STILL have problems, then replace the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder.
06-17-2013, 04:33 PM
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Ok, so you just described that when hot, the clutch remains engaged, and will not disengage so that you can shift, or start the car without it lurching forward.
Your clutch hydraulics are the most likely point of failure. You could have contaminated brake fluid (Which is used for the clutch line too) with water absorption. As the engine and transmission heat up from driving, you could be vaporizing the water content in the brake fluid, creating gas bubbles. The bubbles compress with pressure, to the point that pushing in the clutch only compresses the gas bubbles and does not transmit that force into the clutch fork to push in the release bearing.
I would recommend a complete flush of your brake and clutch lines with brand new fluid.
If you STILL have problems, then replace the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder.
Your clutch hydraulics are the most likely point of failure. You could have contaminated brake fluid (Which is used for the clutch line too) with water absorption. As the engine and transmission heat up from driving, you could be vaporizing the water content in the brake fluid, creating gas bubbles. The bubbles compress with pressure, to the point that pushing in the clutch only compresses the gas bubbles and does not transmit that force into the clutch fork to push in the release bearing.
I would recommend a complete flush of your brake and clutch lines with brand new fluid.
If you STILL have problems, then replace the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder.
06-18-2013, 04:34 AM
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02-24-2014, 09:01 PM
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Fixed your poblem my car just started having the same problem no clue nd eveythings the same like your car only shifts when the cars cold..im in the navy nd its hard to find any hel wat so evr without payin out the *** and we dont make **** in the military txt my phone or call me if u can i just started this forum dnt kno how to figure it out yet
Last edited by RIWWP; 02-24-2014 at 10:30 PM. Reason: phone # removed
02-24-2014, 10:42 PM
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[QUOTE=RIWWP;4573593]navy,
Did you read the rest of the thread above? All the issues are noted there if you read it through carefully.[/Q
He nvr said wat fixed my clutch pedel is fine i found so many threads simular to this and no answer ppl nvr say wat fixed the problem my clutch has less than 500 miles on it no leaks and i have no way to diagnose a car that wont even get into gear i cant even figure out how to make my own thread all i want to kno i wat fixed his problem if any hahahah
Did you read the rest of the thread above? All the issues are noted there if you read it through carefully.[/Q
He nvr said wat fixed my clutch pedel is fine i found so many threads simular to this and no answer ppl nvr say wat fixed the problem my clutch has less than 500 miles on it no leaks and i have no way to diagnose a car that wont even get into gear i cant even figure out how to make my own thread all i want to kno i wat fixed his problem if any hahahah
12-04-2018, 05:58 PM
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Clutch Problems
Hi everyone, I'm hoping I can get some help. I just replace my pressure plate, clutch disc, flywheel, counterbalance weight, master cylinder and slave cylinder.
When I got it out of the shop it was driving funny. Popped out of 2nd to neutral a few times. I stopped at a light and car would not go into gear and pedal feels like I'm stepping on a sponge. Ive replaced almost every clutch part and still can't figure out the problem.
When I got it out of the shop it was driving funny. Popped out of 2nd to neutral a few times. I stopped at a light and car would not go into gear and pedal feels like I'm stepping on a sponge. Ive replaced almost every clutch part and still can't figure out the problem.
12-04-2018, 06:16 PM
#17
Was it doing this before the parts were changed also?
Pedal feels like sponge = air. So either it wasn't bled or there is a leak somewhere. Won't go into gear = clutch doesn't disengage, once again because of poor hydraulics. Popping out of gear : perhaps the clutch is not engaging fully either.
Long story short, bring it right back to the shop that did the work so they can fix whatever they did, or get your money for the work back.
Pedal feels like sponge = air. So either it wasn't bled or there is a leak somewhere. Won't go into gear = clutch doesn't disengage, once again because of poor hydraulics. Popping out of gear : perhaps the clutch is not engaging fully either.
Long story short, bring it right back to the shop that did the work so they can fix whatever they did, or get your money for the work back.
12-04-2018, 06:31 PM
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Was it doing this before the parts were changed also?
Pedal feels like sponge = air. So either it wasn't bled or there is a leak somewhere. Won't go into gear = clutch doesn't disengage, once again because of poor hydraulics. Popping out of gear : perhaps the clutch is not engaging fully either.
Long story short, bring it right back to the shop that did the work so they can fix whatever they did, or get your money for the work back.
Pedal feels like sponge = air. So either it wasn't bled or there is a leak somewhere. Won't go into gear = clutch doesn't disengage, once again because of poor hydraulics. Popping out of gear : perhaps the clutch is not engaging fully either.
Long story short, bring it right back to the shop that did the work so they can fix whatever they did, or get your money for the work back.
Before I brought it there the car was shifting absolutely perfect. No clutch problem other than my disc being completely burned out.
I had a slipping disc really bad so I got it all replaced. Now I'm having these issues and I have bought every part to a full clutch set up other than new lines.
Makes no sense to me. It shouldn't be leaking since it didn't before I took to the shop.
Only problem I had going into the shop was a toast disc and flywheel.
12-04-2018, 10:24 PM
#19
Before I brought it there the car was shifting absolutely perfect. No clutch problem other than my disc being completely burned out.
I had a slipping disc really bad so I got it all replaced. Now I'm having these issues and I have bought every part to a full clutch set up other than new lines.
Makes no sense to me. It shouldn't be leaking since it didn't before I took to the shop.
Only problem I had going into the shop was a toast disc and flywheel.
I had a slipping disc really bad so I got it all replaced. Now I'm having these issues and I have bought every part to a full clutch set up other than new lines.
Makes no sense to me. It shouldn't be leaking since it didn't before I took to the shop.
Only problem I had going into the shop was a toast disc and flywheel.
But they replaced everything, so it's totally possible they didn't properly tighten the hydraulics or made other mistakes. It's obviously something they did.
07-20-2019, 01:17 PM
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Hey guys, so this morning i was driving before to go to work like usual ... After 20miles or so when the car got hot i got stuck at a stop sign... Couldnt shift back into any gears...called my friend that towed me to the nearest mazda garage who bleeded my clutch and said everything was fine... Came and picked it up, everything worked fine when cold once warmed up same shot again...
What can it be ? I tried searching but the only responses i found are bleed the clutch...
Thanks
What can it be ? I tried searching but the only responses i found are bleed the clutch...
Thanks
07-20-2019, 07:38 PM
#21
You gonna eat that?
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01-30-2024, 01:57 PM
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How does one flush out the brake fluid from the system? I got my clutch replaced about 4 years ago but my car won't move. I think that it could be an air pocket in the clutch slave cylinder. Would flushing out all the brake fluid from the master help?
Thanks.
Chad
Thanks.
Chad
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