Clutch Issue - Please help
09-18-2009, 08:34 PM
#26
I think your memory is clouded. I have loads of respect for fellow vendors who have done things the way I believe they should be done. I have criticism for those whom I believe do not. I also express my opinions as I see things and if it rubs people the wrong way I make no apologies for it. However, my criticisms are never along personal lines as I do not intimately know everybody from this forum. I only know what I think about the products they offer. At the very least, when someone asks my opinion I give them the forthright truth about what I think, how I feel, and what I believe to be important.
If all of this was lost on those whom I met 2 years ago, there isn't much I can do about that. What I can tell you is that there are many people who will still invite me in their homes, trust me with their families, and trust me with their money.
I can do no better than I have and if this doesn't meet your muster, I cannot help you with that.
09-18-2009, 08:35 PM
#27
09-18-2009, 08:36 PM
#28
09-18-2009, 08:48 PM
#29
I was told a couple of your homeboys with your radiation had a secondary radiator installed, olddragger style. Maybe I'm mistaken. Either way our coolant temps here suck for the conditions. Big time.
And I keep telling you....because the trans cooler DID NOT NEED TO BE BIGGER! There was never a point in which the trans temps got hot enough to need to be worried about. And because you spent area on the trans cooler, that was area that was taken away from the coolant heat exchanger. And the coolant NEEDS MORE!
Well, thats fantastic. Because the trans temps were 10-20*F COOLER than the coolant temps on the stock radiator. So why you would want to raise the temps of the trans fluid is beyond me. And how you expected a larger cooler would accomplish this is even more troubling.
The downside is that you sacrificed capacity on the coolant side. And that is where there is an issue.
ok, great. so what? what does this have to do with?
And who are you to say how things should be done?
Who are you to tell someone with decades of rotary and fabrication experience they don't know what they are doing, but you do? 
I have better things to do on a Friday night. If some people chose to spend their money with you, that's wonderful. But there are plenty out there who see right through. Have a nice night, Ray.
Who are you to tell someone with decades of rotary and fabrication experience they don't know what they are doing, but you do? I have better things to do on a Friday night. If some people chose to spend their money with you, that's wonderful. But there are plenty out there who see right through. Have a nice night, Ray.
09-18-2009, 08:49 PM
#30
You're wrong on a lot of stuff here, Kyle, but I need to go do another turbo kit installation right now so I will see you around the forum. Catch me after SSXII and maybe I will have more time to play cat-and-mouse with you.
09-18-2009, 09:49 PM
#34
I'll snap his neck.
I can confirm that mac11 is intimiately involved in a car with a BHR product and correct about his points about the radiator, as it is my car he is refering to. I would prefer if it had more area for coolant and less area for the trans cooler. My trans temps were well under control, but my coolant temps are where the problems lie. I chose to keep the radiator because I did not get it installed until several months after I purchased it and felt it would be unfair to try to return it at that point, the coolant temps weren't any worse than before, and I figured the potential extra airflow capacity might come in handy at some point with some additional modifications.
By extra airflow capacity, I mean that the radiator is visually easier to see through than the stock radiator. I assume that means it should flow better.
By extra airflow capacity, I mean that the radiator is visually easier to see through than the stock radiator. I assume that means it should flow better.
09-18-2009, 10:40 PM
#35
I'll snap his neck.
I can also confirm hearing some BHR people criticize other vendors when they paid visits to our state. I wasn't present for all the conversations you guys are discussing, but I did hear some of them. But as Ray says it is no secret that he has criticized other vendors, so I assume he doesn't have a problem with me confirming that. My personal preference is that vendors focus on the positives of their own products rather than their perceived negatives of others. When I hear from a vendor, I want to hear the postivites and negatives of their product, not all the others out there. But I also admit that that kind of marketing works well for some people. Just ask any politician that has won an election 
Last edited by mdw1000; 09-18-2009 at 11:14 PM.
09-19-2009, 12:38 AM
#36
I can confirm that mac11 is intimiately involved in a car with a BHR product and correct about his points about the radiator, as it is my car he is refering to. I would prefer if it had more area for coolant and less area for the trans cooler. My trans temps were well under control, but my coolant temps are where the problems lie. I chose to keep the radiator because I did not get it installed until several months after I purchased it and felt it would be unfair to try to return it at that point, the coolant temps weren't any worse than before, and I figured the potential extra airflow capacity might come in handy at some point with some additional modifications.
By extra airflow capacity, I mean that the radiator is visually easier to see through than the stock radiator. I assume that means it should flow better.
By extra airflow capacity, I mean that the radiator is visually easier to see through than the stock radiator. I assume that means it should flow better.
Hey, Mark, what is it like to do business with BHR? Did your radiator perform as advertised?
And where did flashwing's post go? I had some comments about that. Weird. Completely deleted.
And feel free to point out, in detail, what I am wrong about. I would love to see it. Just remember there were a lot of other people in that garage, that shop and at dinner that night and choose your words accordingly.
But, Ray, I do have to say. I am impressed. Someone else designs and packages something from the ground up in their shop, from scratch parts on the floor. And once they figure out how everything goes together, does all the finish work, creates all the parts. Somehow.......somehow.....you manage to bolt it all together. That must be exhausting. I mean, clearly, it is harder for you to bolt a Pettit kit on, with all the parts clearly labeled and packaged individually than it was for Cam to calculate the proper blower size, figure out the placement, fabricate an air to water i/c from scratch and then have it cast and produced on large scale, make an eccentric shaft pulley that properly lined up with the s/c pulley in 2 planes, etc, etc etc. I just don't know how you find time in the day.
It's a really good thing Cam has you watching his back and fixing all the mistakes he made on his setup. Oh me, oh my, what would the s/c guys do without cog pulleys?
09-19-2009, 01:26 PM
#38
I'll snap his neck.
I should also say for those that don't know, mac11 is one of the most honest and generous guys I've ever met. Yes, he can be brutally honest , but you always know where you stand with him. And he has gone out of his way to help me more times than I can count.
, but you always know where you stand with him. And he has gone out of his way to help me more times than I can count.
09-19-2009, 02:03 PM
#39
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09-20-2009, 11:41 PM
#42
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09-22-2009, 09:23 PM
#44
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Yea thanks...The parts you guys posted on the first page look good but still not sure what the exact problem is. If that is the problem, then I obviously have some good links to replace that part, but no answers to the actual issue itself.
09-22-2009, 10:08 PM
#46
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I looked at it but saw no obvious breaks or cracks. I am obviously not professional and do not know the 8 like the back of my hand, but I didn't see anything obvious.
09-22-2009, 10:20 PM
#47
You don't need to have extensive RX8 knowledge to look for abnormalities like cracks and fractures.
If you need to, remove the pedal assembly and look for the same visual cracks as I posted in the 2nd post.
You might be able to just remove the nut on the upper-left corner and see if there is a crack.
I say the upper-left corner because that is where the known fracture point is.
09-22-2009, 10:24 PM
#48
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Ok thanks, I will look, like I said the initial look didn't turn anything up. I will get back out there in the morning and try looking again. Do you have a recomendation between just replacing the clutch breaket and replacing the entire pedal with bracket?
09-22-2009, 10:30 PM
#49
I recommend getting the pedal assembly "reinforced", I went with welding it.
Here is a link where we discussed this:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ht=clutch+snap
Its a little long to read through, but people have posted pics on their brackets welded or some went with a bracket.
I recommend skimming through this to get an idea on what occurs and how to prevent it.
Here is a link where we discussed this:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ht=clutch+snap
Its a little long to read through, but people have posted pics on their brackets welded or some went with a bracket.
I recommend skimming through this to get an idea on what occurs and how to prevent it.
09-22-2009, 10:50 PM
#50
ThEy MaDe Me Do It
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This could also help out https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-clutch-pedal-bracket-removal-fix-170387/.