Car Wont Start (Electrical Issue)
10-12-2011, 08:57 PM
#1
Car Wont Start (Electrical Issue)
Let me begin this thread by saying I HATE ELECTRICITY! I have never like it and I'm actually a little scared of it.
I have Aftermarket Gauges installed in the car and I was trying to put in a switch to turn them on and off. When I finished, I tucked all of the wires back in the transmission tunnel and reconnected the battery. I turned the key two clicks and reprogrammed the gauges. When I went to turn the key to start the car, everything went black and the car wouldn't start and it seemed like everything lost power all together.
I disconnected the battery and undid all of the wiring and then reconnected the battery. Everything seemed to work again so I reprogrammed the gauges only to have the same thing happen when I went to start it.
What should I do next?
I have Aftermarket Gauges installed in the car and I was trying to put in a switch to turn them on and off. When I finished, I tucked all of the wires back in the transmission tunnel and reconnected the battery. I turned the key two clicks and reprogrammed the gauges. When I went to turn the key to start the car, everything went black and the car wouldn't start and it seemed like everything lost power all together.
I disconnected the battery and undid all of the wiring and then reconnected the battery. Everything seemed to work again so I reprogrammed the gauges only to have the same thing happen when I went to start it.
What should I do next?
10-12-2011, 09:15 PM
#5
yes, I ran a wire directly from the battery to the gauges for the internal memory (constant power) and wired the gauges to the Cig lighter (switched power).
The gauges have been installed and working great for a couple weeks now until I tried to install a toggle switch on the switched power wire.
The gauges have been installed and working great for a couple weeks now until I tried to install a toggle switch on the switched power wire.
10-16-2011, 10:45 PM
#7
I checked every fuse and none of them were bad but the car started anyways. I drove the car to the store and when I went to go home, the car wouldn't start just like before. The only way I can get the car to start is by disconnecting the battery and starting it regularly. But, I have to go through the whole process again in order for it to start.
What the H*ll is wrong with this thing?!
What the H*ll is wrong with this thing?!
10-16-2011, 11:11 PM
#8
Why do you have wires in the transmission tunnel?
And are these wires loosely hanging?
Why did you do this?
Better to tap into a constant power source within the cabin so its tied into a fuse and saves you the trouble of running a cable back to the battery.
Sometimes you need to start back at the beginning and remove all the aftermarket wiring (or at least disconnect them from the electrical circuit).
Then see if the car behaves normal... that way you know if the problem resides in the car's electrical circuit or the gauges.
If it appears to be something with the gauges, inspect all your connections/taps, check the wiring for any breaks, and verify the new switch isn't touching the car body or anything else metal that will cause a short.
Just curious though... why do you want a separate on/off switch if the gauges are wired to switched power and should only operate when the key is turned to 'ON'?
And are these wires loosely hanging?
Why did you do this?
Better to tap into a constant power source within the cabin so its tied into a fuse and saves you the trouble of running a cable back to the battery.
Sometimes you need to start back at the beginning and remove all the aftermarket wiring (or at least disconnect them from the electrical circuit).
Then see if the car behaves normal... that way you know if the problem resides in the car's electrical circuit or the gauges.
If it appears to be something with the gauges, inspect all your connections/taps, check the wiring for any breaks, and verify the new switch isn't touching the car body or anything else metal that will cause a short.
Just curious though... why do you want a separate on/off switch if the gauges are wired to switched power and should only operate when the key is turned to 'ON'?
10-17-2011, 01:36 AM
#9
Why do you have wires in the transmission tunnel?
And are these wires loosely hanging?
Why did you do this?
Better to tap into a constant power source within the cabin so its tied into a fuse and saves you the trouble of running a cable back to the battery.
Sometimes you need to start back at the beginning and remove all the aftermarket wiring (or at least disconnect them from the electrical circuit).
Then see if the car behaves normal... that way you know if the problem resides in the car's electrical circuit or the gauges.
If it appears to be something with the gauges, inspect all your connections/taps, check the wiring for any breaks, and verify the new switch isn't touching the car body or anything else metal that will cause a short.
Just curious though... why do you want a separate on/off switch if the gauges are wired to switched power and should only operate when the key is turned to 'ON'?
And are these wires loosely hanging?
Why did you do this?
Better to tap into a constant power source within the cabin so its tied into a fuse and saves you the trouble of running a cable back to the battery.
Sometimes you need to start back at the beginning and remove all the aftermarket wiring (or at least disconnect them from the electrical circuit).
Then see if the car behaves normal... that way you know if the problem resides in the car's electrical circuit or the gauges.
If it appears to be something with the gauges, inspect all your connections/taps, check the wiring for any breaks, and verify the new switch isn't touching the car body or anything else metal that will cause a short.
Just curious though... why do you want a separate on/off switch if the gauges are wired to switched power and should only operate when the key is turned to 'ON'?
10-17-2011, 02:39 AM
#11
I thought that when you turn the key and all the gauges and lighting goes dead that the immobilizer has been tripped. Try disconnecting your gauges and if it does the same thing then maybe that's it. Only way to get that fixed is by having it towed to a dealer to get unlocked if I recall correctly.
10-17-2011, 10:18 AM
#14
Hold on, now this wire that you have directly running to the battery, what gauge is it, do you have a fuse inline? Hopefully it isn't a tiny wire, or that would be a great way to start a nasty fire in your engine bay. Use the "ROOM" fuse for your constant power source, and better yet, get a add-a-circuit so that you run run a fuse for the gauges. It sounds like you have a single strand of wire running from your battery to the gauges ... if the wire was cut or has some exposed copper, you might be shorting out the entire system against part of the chassis.
10-17-2011, 12:33 PM
#15
Hold on, now this wire that you have directly running to the battery, what gauge is it, do you have a fuse inline? Hopefully it isn't a tiny wire, or that would be a great way to start a nasty fire in your engine bay. Use the "ROOM" fuse for your constant power source, and better yet, get a add-a-circuit so that you run run a fuse for the gauges. It sounds like you have a single strand of wire running from your battery to the gauges ... if the wire was cut or has some exposed copper, you might be shorting out the entire system against part of the chassis.
I tried to make a video for you guys to show you what happens when I turn the key but it ended up starting 4 times in a row. As long as I start the car with my video camera on (trying to catch the problem on video) it will work every time
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
9krpmrx8
Series I Trouble Shooting
23
11-05-2015 11:45 PM
dbarber
Series I Trouble Shooting
14
07-25-2015 01:34 PM
