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Another loss of power, stall, won't start cycle...already replaced plugs and coils

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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 04:01 PM
  #26  
Old Rotor's Avatar
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Originally Posted by mZimm
I went and talked to the service technician today and he told me that the tester that they used doesn't do any sort of electronic printouts and simply shows the numbers as the tests are being done. I argued that I wanted some sort of a record of what the compression numbers were but he claims that they couldn't do that. He told me that all of the compressions were in the mid to high 7s and that the test was done at spec of 250. I argued that I didn't want to take it without anything being done but he assured me that if I have more problems he would take it back and not charge me. He said that they checked most of the things in that TSB but since I already replaced my plugs, coils and wires and cleaned out the engine they didn't check those things. I'm pretty disappointed in coming away with nothing, but the car did drive home fine so I'm unsure as to what basis I have to argue with at this point. I'd like to get another test done at a different dealer but paying $142 again isn't really feasible for me at this point.


In the chart I saw "7s" @ 250= Fail........anybody
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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 04:15 PM
  #27  
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From: Burbs,PA
6.8 and lower at 250 is fail. above 6.8 is considered ok, I'm sure if you prodded enough you could get a reman.
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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 04:35 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
I have all the tools you can rent from me for a fraction of the cost. get the rebuild kit from Atkins.

I am never doing a DIY it would take days to write up and I honestly think people shouldn't attempt this. its better to just get a rebuild form a reputable builder.

In any event how much would you want for that blown engine?
which rebuild kit? it only shows kit A which comes with no seals. all the other kits are not availible

my original blown motor suffered a catastrophic failure in the front housing. i kept it around with the intent to one day rebuild it. i havent taken it appart yet so i dont know what the damage is. all i know is that i had little bits of apex seal sitting on top of my cat after it happened. its a fully dressed motor. to be honest, i dont know if im ready to give up the dream of DIY rebuilding it. ill let you know if i ever decide on selling it.
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 03:11 PM
  #29  
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Well, it looks like you all were correct in your urging me to demand more information. The car stalled again and would not restart so I was forced to have it towed back to the Mazda dealer. They decarbed the engine even though I told them I had already done it and then I urged them to perform another compression check while I was there. They finally agreed that the compression numbers were low and have forwarded them to Mazda for their warranty service but I was told that they should receive a go ahead for a new motor. Ended up costing me an extra $60 for the tow, but if I can at least put this behind me then I'll be happy. Strongly considering premixing for my next motor as well.
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 04:56 PM
  #30  
JeRKy 8 Owner's Avatar
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I'm having the same problems as this guy and I'm close to his mileage (04 MT with 70k). Just got coils and plugs changed this weekend...had trouble starting car a few days after replacing the coils/plugs...got low reading on battery so bought new one today and rough start went away...but now my idle has become rough as hell...and it's going into lower RPMs than usual at idle, plus the car stalled out at 2 lights on my way home today. I believe the ECU was reset after the battery was taken out today, so maybe it's just relearning airflow again, but this is exactly opposite behavior of what I would expect from it after putting in fresh coils and plugs. Maybe I should take mine in for a compression test too. New engine at 70K would be sweet
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 05:38 PM
  #31  
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Do you have a stock Intake? some aftermarkets can definetley cause that due to the air not flowing right into the MAF. I had a crappy intake when they first came out and my car would die at low rpm but start right back up. If it is stock or not, you should still check all the connections, make sure you have at least one mesh screen in the setup also.
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 10:58 AM
  #32  
JeRKy 8 Owner's Avatar
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From: Miami, FL
Yes I'm all stock. But the problem resolved itself. Car stalled a couple times after putting in new battey since ECU was completely reset, but two days later (today) the idle is back to being smooth and is no longer dipping into lower RPMs. Guess I don't need a compression test after all ("damn")
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