First note, the car was running before the repair.

Ok I started with a leak at the fuel pump housing on top of the fuel tank and have since replaced the following:

New fuel pump housing and fuel pump (used the pump that came with the housing)

New fuel line (previous one was damaged trying to determine where the leak was)

New union nut

New seal

New retaining clip

The fuel pump turns on, the line has alot of pressure in it when I removed it to determine if the pump was pumping. The is no fuel in the return line; should there be?

Cant see any fuses out.


Stumped right now..

I actually have a walboro 255 i was going to install but havent. And still have the original pump. But I can tell so far the pump in the car is working.

Any Ideas?

 

there is no return line, the pressure regulator is internal to the fuel pump assembly

you need to confirm that fuel is going into the engine. If so the spark plugs should be wet with fuel if it's cranking and not starting

 

Thank you TeamRX8 for the response!

So I have checked and the plugs are wet. So I have fuel delivery.


Still just cranking...

 

flooded?

 

That would be my guess.

 

wont start after flood precedure, hard to believe this would be a spark problem if the car was running before.

 

What deflood procedure did you use? I have started a few where people had tried various deflooding methods prior to me working on it.

 

simple one from the manual, hold pedel while cranking fro 7-8 seconds.

 

That's the right one. Is your battery and starter good? You could always push start it if it's a manual trans. Sometimes the deflooding just takes time.

 

Battery and starter are fine, the car was always running and starting just fine until this fuel pump repair. The car is a manual trans

 

Thought this would be something simple considering it ran before and that I had just overlooked something after installing the pump and fuel line etc.


Such as tripped a fuse, cant see any of those out.

Caused another issue common during this procedure?

 

Well flooding can be a bitch sometimes unfortunately. I would push start it if possible. If you cannot then you need to take the plugs out and clean them and turn the engine over a couple of time to clean out the chambers.

 

Wow didnt realize the flooding could be that severe. I will definately go ahead and do that. I let you know as soon as I have the chance.

When the plugs are out am I assuming correctly that I turn the motor over with the pedal depressed like the de-flood procedure?>

Thanks again for all the advice!

 

Yeah just crank it with the pedal to the floor for a couple of seconds, nothing severe. The plugs could be fouled as well but I clean them off and try it that way.

 

Pressing the gas pedal all the way down cuts fuel. I do agree on push starting it if possible.

 

Yeah, I know......that's why I deleted it.

Any one of ten various methods may deflood it given enough time.

Dude, just pull start it..................lucky you can as you have a manual.

 

I have a long driveway with and incline, it's nice for pop starting flooded RX-8's

 

Sorry guys its an AUTOMATIC trans...must have mis-typed that in a hurry...

Im giong to take the plugs out and clear the chambers, clean the plugs

 

Suck..................now you gotta do it the harder way.
Get the plugs 100% absolutely dry and spend time clearing the chambers.
Make sure your abttery is up to the task, or have another one you can switch in if needed.

 

UGH, Flooded AT's are a bitch. My buddy had one he was working on that was flooded and was in a parking garage with poor lighting and no receptacles to plug a shop light into. And none of the wreckers would go in there due to the way she had parked the car. And to top it all off, he had to use a breaker bar in order to finally get the plugs out. It took him all day ans several trips back and forth getting tools and flash lights.

 

ALWAYS cranks for 10 seconds minimum before stopping unless the engine fires off

this is Renesis Flood Avoidance 101

the quickest way to flood is to bump start


you need to get some oil into the rotors too, excess fuel washes out the oil and causes a temporary low compression condition which makes starting that much harder

 

So I got the plugs out, they look pretty fouled.

I am going to go ahead and replace the plugs

I am workng now to get the chambers copmpletely dry

 

TeamRX8 should I add a bit of oil into the cylinders before replacing the plugs and starting?

 

aye man were are you in az if so were are you located.

 

Remove ESS plug....crank over engine till the fuel stops coming out of the plug holes...

Put a squirt of oil from an oiler can into each L plug hole..turn engine over for a sec to distribute oil...

Put in new plugs...reconnect the ESS sensor...and it should start I would floor the ACCelerator petal until it burps or tries to start and then modulate the gas to keep it running. ( FYI..at 100% throttle when starting it cuts all fuel supply)

Make sure you have a booster battery hooked up..and charge your own..all you need is a weak battery to flood it again.

You didn't switch the fuel line and the evap line when you had it all apart did you?