you need a flywheel stop as well. I have both these tools, if you wanna borrow em. I was planning on doing this with you lol, so I didn't mention it.

 

Now the guy is saying it could be under the 100k engine warranty. Would it? Don't u need to blow the engine to do take advantage of this? Or would my situation count?

 

Thanks man ! Would u still be down to help me out?
I'm supposed to get it done tom but Idk. Last minute popups blow

 

Might be worth a tow to the dealer

 

Buttttt the thing is I'd have to pay the diagnosing fee. But if it were covered I wouldn't have to pay. But if it wasn't i would have to pay...

Oh and I'd have to tear everything outta my car. All my mods

 

Not all of them just the high power ones, if you have any. Usually they are fine with some modding. Call up the dealer and tell them your freeze plug poped ask if it under warranty.

 

Soooo your saying I shouldn't bother now?
I'd rather do it myself because I have to many mods to take off before the dealer....
Shady. Would u be down to help me?
Pm me your number

 

Text me again. I lost your number man.

 

I got ur number from Nikko. I just text u. Reply if u got it. If not pm ur #. I need to get this done Tom.

 

so it turned out to be the freeze plug.
got that all taken care of and everything changed out and back together.

car fired right up, was running fine and no leaking. then when i left the shop the shutdown on me and wont fire. when it fires itll go to 750 then back down to 0 and die.
if i rev it up then itll go to like 4k when it should be at like 7 k. then itll backfire like crazy. i dont know whats up with it.

i had to unplug my battery for the starter, does that wipe out the accessport maps?
for some reason my ap is not turning on when i plug it into the car or the comp. so know its black whenever i plug it in. im thinking the ecu is messed up and its effecting the afr

 

check the battery terminal, see if it's lose, also check fuse box....

 

what do i check the fuse box for?
my cars battery and terminal are all secure. when i put in the key and turn it to start, the radio and everything runs....

now my ap wont connect to my comp. im so pissed

 

so update.
i took apart the whole uim, along with all the components, connections etc..., and went to start it up and it just idles horribly. the engines rpms jump from 0- 750 continuously like a v8 lol.

when the car is on it throws a CEL.
i made sure that everything and every connection was spot on this time

 

DUDE... you need to go back to stock and get that over to the dealership. I'm pretty sure your housings are warped.

 

just upadated my ap. i got it to work on my bros comp.
so... i will be able to check the code hopefully

 

Update.

I got my to work and read the codes. Here there are. Anyones opinions / suggestions in fixing it would be greatly appreciated

PCM
P0506
IC
U1500
RKE
P0000

Can I just reset the ecu and clear the codes for everything to clear out and hopefully work??

 

0506 is an idle control system lower RPM than expected code...

Could be DBW control system ( throttle body? or pedal..or PCM)
IAT, ECT, poor compression..Vac leak?

I would check all the grounds and clean them first, often sensor problems are grounding problems....then start checking things. If you have a Shop manual there are diagnostics for the systems Mazda thinks could do it

Reset the ECU and see what comes back

The other 2 codes you can ignore..they are usually scanner related

 

So I can reset the ecu without any issues. Well clear the codes??
That would be sweet. I never undid and grounds. A few plugs but they are plugged in... I have been at a stand still for a week

 

Now that I think about it I'm kinda thinking it's the wire we tapped into for the n20. That was the wire that sensed throttle position...?!?

 

Remove the NOx wiring...and see if it throws the code again.

If you add additional resistance to the circuit..the voltage the PCM sees will be lower....

 

the NOx wiring? idk what that is...do you meen my nos ?

its only tapped into the one line, that is the throttle position line. which is why i suspect this line.

i dont know what nox is tho?


i see what you are saying though and it makes sense. but could it throw it off that much. possibly... its always the little things that cause big issues lols

 

I hope thats it!

 

i think im going to check it right now!!! haha

 

sooooo i just checked out all the sensored and bolts and connections. everything was fine. i took off connections and replugged them all in.

so atm i have my negative battery terminal off, i am thinking about clearing all the codes with my ap, but am afraid something will hapen to the car if there really is a problem....

 

N (nitrogen) Ox (oxide) Nitrous is N20

You will not hurt anything by clearing the codes...if they were valid they will come back

Did you double check all of the purge lines and connections from when you had the manifold off....IT WILL IDLE LIKE CRAP IF THERE IS A VAC LEAK