Wont rev over 6RPM on cold start
01-22-2006, 09:23 PM
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Wont rev over 6RPM on cold start
When i first start up my 8 and take off ive noticed if its been cold out when i get to about 6rpm the car just stops accelerating. When i let off the gas and then try again its fine. Is this normal....? Another thing is my engine light keeps comming on and then goes off usually after i fill up my tank. Ive made sure to really seal up the gas lid. Any thoughts on that?
01-23-2006, 12:53 AM
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It takes a while for your oil to reach operating temperature... so don't flog it when it's cold... give it 10 minutes of gentle driving before let 'er rip. There have been cases of coolant leaks caused by flogging the car when cold. Your engine casing is made from two different materials which expand at different rates... heating them up too quick can cause cracks.
01-23-2006, 07:23 AM
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Man, harsh crowd.
Really any car should be warmed up before flogging it. The newer ones protect themselves. It only takes a few minutes to warm up.
Really any car should be warmed up before flogging it. The newer ones protect themselves. It only takes a few minutes to warm up.
01-24-2006, 12:34 AM
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Yeah i just always shift late...ill stop doing that now. And i follow the age of manly tradition of not reading manuals....Maybe i should stop doing that too. Thanks for setting me straight. Any ideas on the engine light though? Its bothering me and there aint no Mazda dealer for almost 100 miles from here.
Last edited by B-Ron; 01-24-2006 at 03:33 AM.
01-24-2006, 10:26 AM
#15
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its most likely your gas gap. it may have alittle leak. but without knowing the code its really difficult to make a call. does it come on when you first start the car? are you sure its the CEL? there was a person not long ago that was confusing the TPMS light witht he CEL. that could come on in the cold morning and then go off after a few minutes of driving.
01-24-2006, 01:52 PM
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Revving an engine when it's cold can be potentially dangerous to the engine, especially a rotary. The rotary engines housings are made up of alternating cast iron and aluminum. Both of these metals have very different heat expansion properties. When you rev up a cold motor, you are creating lots of heat in the combustion chamber. Since the heat is mostly on one side of the rotary, this leaves half of the engine hot and the other half not. The hot side can expand faster due to this heat difference which will really affect the aluminum housings the most. They can warp and when they do, they won't go back to normal. This will lead to coolant leaks between housings and you'll need an engine rebuild. You absolutely need to warm the engine up gradually. It is very important.
01-24-2006, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by B-Ron
Yeah i just always shift late...ill stop doing that now. And i follow the age of manly tradition of not reading manuals....Maybe i should stop doing that too. Thanks for setting me straight. Any ideas on the engine light though? Its bothering me and there aint no Mazda dealer for almost 100 miles from here.
My most trusted dealer is ~100 miles away too. I feel your pain, but when the car is under warrenty the dealer is your best bet. In 4 months I've been to see them once for warrenty service and once to have them repair some accident damage. I need to make another trip because my airbag light comes on from time to time, but that'll keep until I find a convenient day to drive up there.
01-24-2006, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Imidazole
I'd get that airbag thing fixed semi soon.
It could be serious.
It could be serious.
The light is likely flashing because there is some problem with the new airbag modules they installed after my deer-strike. I *used* my airbag system once already - I fully intend to keep it fully functioning at all times.
However, it's not on all the time so I have fair confidence the system is online. Once or twice while driving the light came on and stayed on or flashed and then stayed solid on. Didn't happen at start-up, only after several minutes of driving. Since the light did stay on at least once the dealer is confident the computer would have stored a code so they'll look into it.
02-10-2006, 07:45 PM
#20
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When you filled up your gas tank and the check engine light came on, how many times did you keep filling after the first click? When I purchased my 8 the dealer told me a number of quick tips and one was not to go past the first click while filling up gas or you will get a CEL.
02-11-2006, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by t-run/8
When you filled up your gas tank and the check engine light came on, how many times did you keep filling after the first click? When I purchased my 8 the dealer told me a number of quick tips and one was not to go past the first click while filling up gas or you will get a CEL.
02-12-2006, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Go48
I am always amazed at the BS the dealers spew out these days.
Overfilling a gas tank beyond the auto shutoff CAN cause a CEL - if you overfill, you risk having raw fuel get into the evaporative emissions system, which can flood the charcoal canister, which definitely will light the CEL. There was a discussion about this subject here almost 2 years ago, and I posted links to several articles that discussed this - here's that discussion
Regards,
Gordon
02-12-2006, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryan13b
Never had a CEL or any adverse affects.