why do the apv's get so gunked up?
08-02-2009, 10:03 AM
#1
why do the apv's get so gunked up?
When I recently took my lim off(engine in the car lol) the apv's were really gunked up with oily/carbon residue. Is that blow back doing that, is it normal, it is side seals-- wtf???
On recip engines i know it would be the valves.
My primarys and secondarys look really, really good.
olddragger
On recip engines i know it would be the valves.
My primarys and secondarys look really, really good.
olddragger
08-02-2009, 03:18 PM
#5
Cause they are often closed...must be reversion carrying fuel/OMP residue in there and then it gets cooked to the walls
Funny thing is that my engine at 93K Km was really clean in the APV...likely from all the hot track time and the water cleaning I did every now and then
Funny thing is that my engine at 93K Km was really clean in the APV...likely from all the hot track time and the water cleaning I did every now and then
08-03-2009, 05:33 PM
#8
Silly question here, would there be a need to clean the ssv and apv? I've always cleaned the throttle body (and plenum chamber) on all the cars l've had, keeps the car running smoothly l believe.
EDIT: Anyone want to do a DIY if there is???
EDIT: Anyone want to do a DIY if there is???
Last edited by 2SeeKU; 08-03-2009 at 05:36 PM.
08-03-2009, 06:08 PM
#9
If too much carbon/sludge builds-up, it can seize the valves.
I've seen this occur on the SSV valve.
I thought about making one for the SSV since that can be removed without pulling the motor/intake manifold.
The APV is a different story, OD managed to get the APV valves out without removing the intake manifold or engine, but it required a lot of work (and patience) and I probably wouldn't recommend this as a DIY for the basic user.
Might be easier to just remove the intake manifold to reach the APV valves.
I've seen this occur on the SSV valve.
I thought about making one for the SSV since that can be removed without pulling the motor/intake manifold.
The APV is a different story, OD managed to get the APV valves out without removing the intake manifold or engine, but it required a lot of work (and patience) and I probably wouldn't recommend this as a DIY for the basic user.
Might be easier to just remove the intake manifold to reach the APV valves.
08-03-2009, 08:43 PM
#11
If too much carbon/sludge builds-up, it can seize the valves.
I've seen this occur on the SSV valve.
I thought about making one for the SSV since that can be removed without pulling the motor/intake manifold.
The APV is a different story, OD managed to get the APV valves out without removing the intake manifold or engine, but it required a lot of work (and patience) and I probably wouldn't recommend this as a DIY for the basic user.
Might be easier to just remove the intake manifold to reach the APV valves.
I've seen this occur on the SSV valve.
I thought about making one for the SSV since that can be removed without pulling the motor/intake manifold.
The APV is a different story, OD managed to get the APV valves out without removing the intake manifold or engine, but it required a lot of work (and patience) and I probably wouldn't recommend this as a DIY for the basic user.
Might be easier to just remove the intake manifold to reach the APV valves.
Haha, cuss words l know! I don't think l'll try anything like that however. I've had plenty of expirence with V6's and V8's but this is my first rotary.. just learning as l go.
01-04-2010, 12:11 PM
#16
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01-26-2011, 07:46 PM
#20
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Are you referring to these pics?
Attachment 150008 Attachment 150009 Attachment 150010 Attachment 150011 Attachment 150012
Attachment 150008 Attachment 150009 Attachment 150010 Attachment 150011 Attachment 150012
Last edited by MrVei; 01-26-2011 at 07:55 PM.
01-26-2011, 07:48 PM
#21
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im taking this one sunday/monday, any tips that would save me some time would be great! did you have to lift on side of the motor to slid it out?
01-26-2011, 07:56 PM
#23
The motor will need to be pushed all the way towards the driver's side to a unbolt the LIM.
Getting the tiny 8mm bolts, practically blinded, will be a PITA because the APV barrels need to be removed first.
I'm sure OD can tell you more from his personal experience... but it'll be easier to just remove the whole motor.
01-27-2011, 09:56 AM
#24
bad seals, bad seals
whatcha gonna do?
whatcha gonna do
when they fail on you?
https://web.pa.msu.edu/people/nila/wavs/badboys.wav
.
whatcha gonna do?
whatcha gonna do
when they fail on you?
https://web.pa.msu.edu/people/nila/wavs/badboys.wav
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 05-10-2021 at 02:43 PM.
01-27-2011, 11:11 AM
#25
if i had to do it over again---i would unhook the ppf/driveshaft/exhaust/gasline.motor mounts and with a lift just swig the engine forward enought to get it straight off.
You shouldnt have to move much wiring? Only needs to come forward about 6 inches or so.
All renny street driven engines must have bad seals at some point.
I have never seen a clean set of apv barrels on an engine with over 20K.
OD
You shouldnt have to move much wiring? Only needs to come forward about 6 inches or so.
All renny street driven engines must have bad seals at some point.
I have never seen a clean set of apv barrels on an engine with over 20K.
OD