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Old 04-13-2018, 11:01 PM   #1  
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What is this part?

Hi all, m hunting down a clunk noise when going over bumps. Thought it might be the end links. But they are tight. Then came across this part. It's only on the driver side I think. The little bar seems to pivot on the joints.
Wondering what does it do and can it be removed? Forget am to be supporting anything.

Alas I'm still hunting down the noise.
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Old 04-14-2018, 02:13 AM   #2  
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Looks like the leveling sensor for the headlamps.

Check the shock perches for bushing compression/deterioration (suspension must be unloaded), the upper strut cross bar for tightness, as well as the chassis bushings for the sway bar, which are just above the steering rack. Any looseness or slop in these could cause clunking.

Last edited by furansu; 04-14-2018 at 02:15 AM.
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Old 04-14-2018, 04:53 PM   #3  
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Well I checked those areas and they are tight.
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Old 04-14-2018, 06:03 PM   #4  
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Originally Posted by delhi View Post
Well I checked those areas and they are tight.
The nuts and bolts can be tight, but slack in the shocks and struts may not be apparent unless you get the wheels off the ground and try to replicate bumps with a 2×4 and block, or some other type of lever.
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Old 04-16-2018, 06:16 PM   #5  
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replace the endlinks, just do it
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Old 04-22-2018, 01:28 AM   #6  
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Originally Posted by nycgps View Post
replace the endlinks, just do it
I just might when I upgrade the sway bars.
That said if the be end links the culprit I would hear sound when turning the the steering.
The metallic klink ocuurs when going over undulation.
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Old 04-22-2018, 11:58 AM   #7  
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If you undo the end links and the noise goes away then it's either the bushings or the links.

if it's still there then it can be a call joint or shock issue.

At least that way you can narrow it down a bit
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Old 04-24-2018, 12:58 AM   #8  
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Originally Posted by dannobre View Post
If you undo the end links and the noise goes away then it's either the bushings or the links.

if it's still there then it can be a call joint or shock issue.

At least that way you can narrow it down a bit
As in totally removing the links or just unbolt the part that connects to the sway bar? Do I need to undo both end links or can I get away with the driver side as that's where the noise and to be coming from.... Thanks

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Old 04-24-2018, 01:28 AM   #9  
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Better to unbolt both.... it's difficult some times to tell where noises come from
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Old 04-24-2018, 03:53 AM   #10  
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This thread seemed appropriate for this question. What is the sensor bolted to the rear housing just above spark plugs?
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Old 04-24-2018, 08:19 AM   #11  
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Knock sensor.
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:13 AM   #12  
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Knock sensor.
did some research on this “knock sensor” and it seems like it could really affect the idle or quality of power you get from the car. Is this true. Could that be the reason my brand new engine will not idle.
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Old 04-24-2018, 03:37 PM   #13  
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Originally Posted by Red line envy View Post

did some research on this “knock sensor” and it seems like it could really affect the idle or quality of power you get from the car. Is this true. Could that be the reason my brand new engine will not idle.

Not likely. More likely something else.

You can unbolt it from the block and wrap it in a rag to isolate it to check it out if you want
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Old 04-24-2018, 05:17 PM   #14  
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Originally Posted by Red line envy View Post

did some research on this “knock sensor” and it seems like it could really affect the idle or quality of power you get from the car. Is this true. Could that be the reason my brand new engine will not idle.
Unlikely, you can buy a cheap ODB-2 scanner and download a free/cheap app like Torque or FORSCAN to see if there is any KR (knock retard) events logged in the ECU during idle/running.

Does it improve or worsen with ambient temperatures or engine temperature?
Get worse with increased RPM, or improve?
No change at all in all conditions?
Did you perform an ESS re-learn upon completion of the swap?

More likely it would be one of the following:
-Vacuum leak or mis-routed vacuum lines
-Stuck or inoperable intake valves (SSV, VDI, or APV)
-Failed or stuck solenoid
-Dirty, damaged, or mis-aligned E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
-Loose or damaged wiring/connector into ESS
-Failing or failed coil pack(s)
-Worn spark plug wires
-Worn, fouled, or otherwise damaged spark plugs
-Loose or damaged wiring/connectors into coils
-Dirty or damaged MAF/IAT sensor
-Loose or damaged wiring/connector into MAF/IAT
-Other possibilities undefined
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Old 04-24-2018, 05:29 PM   #15  
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In case you haven’t seen this. This is what’s going on. There is a video posted aswell thank you for that list I will start at that as well as a compression test.
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Old 04-26-2018, 07:57 PM   #16  
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Originally Posted by dannobre View Post
Better to unbolt both.... it's difficult some times to tell where noises come from
ok guess I'll do that. Is it ok for the sway bar to just dangle like that?
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Old 04-26-2018, 10:22 PM   #17  
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Originally Posted by delhi View Post
ok guess I'll do that. Is it ok for the sway bar to just dangle like that?

just zip tie it up so it doesn't rotate and bump into anything. You shouldn't need it.like that for too long anyway
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Old 04-28-2018, 05:07 PM   #18  
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Took the end links out. Drive around. The metallic klink is still there. Bummer.
Inspected the links and they are in solid condition with no signs of material fatigue. Pivots well with no loose play.
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