delhi

Hi all, m hunting down a clunk noise when going over bumps. Thought it might be the end links. But they are tight. Then came across this part. It's only on the driver side I think. The little bar seems to pivot on the joints.
Wondering what does it do and can it be removed? Forget am to be supporting anything.

Alas I'm still hunting down the noise.

furansu

Looks like the leveling sensor for the headlamps.

Check the shock perches for bushing compression/deterioration (suspension must be unloaded), the upper strut cross bar for tightness, as well as the chassis bushings for the sway bar, which are just above the steering rack. Any looseness or slop in these could cause clunking.

delhi

Well I checked those areas and they are tight.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

The nuts and bolts can be tight, but slack in the shocks and struts may not be apparent unless you get the wheels off the ground and try to replicate bumps with a 2×4 and block, or some other type of lever.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

replace the endlinks, just do it

delhi

I just might when I upgrade the sway bars.
That said if the be end links the culprit I would hear sound when turning the the steering.
The metallic klink ocuurs when going over undulation.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

If you undo the end links and the noise goes away then it's either the bushings or the links.

if it's still there then it can be a call joint or shock issue.

At least that way you can narrow it down a bit

delhi

As in totally removing the links or just unbolt the part that connects to the sway bar? Do I need to undo both end links or can I get away with the driver side as that's where the noise and to be coming from.... Thanks

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Better to unbolt both.... it's difficult some times to tell where noises come from

Red line envy

NotAPreppie

Knock sensor.

Red line envy

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Not likely. More likely something else.

You can unbolt it from the block and wrap it in a rag to isolate it to check it out if you want

furansu

Unlikely, you can buy a cheap ODB-2 scanner and download a free/cheap app like Torque or FORSCAN to see if there is any KR (knock retard) events logged in the ECU during idle/running.

Does it improve or worsen with ambient temperatures or engine temperature?
Get worse with increased RPM, or improve?
No change at all in all conditions?
Did you perform an ESS re-learn upon completion of the swap?

More likely it would be one of the following:
-Vacuum leak or mis-routed vacuum lines
-Stuck or inoperable intake valves (SSV, VDI, or APV)
-Failed or stuck solenoid
-Dirty, damaged, or mis-aligned E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
-Loose or damaged wiring/connector into ESS
-Failing or failed coil pack(s)
-Worn spark plug wires
-Worn, fouled, or otherwise damaged spark plugs
-Loose or damaged wiring/connectors into coils
-Dirty or damaged MAF/IAT sensor
-Loose or damaged wiring/connector into MAF/IAT
-Other possibilities undefined

Red line envy

delhi

ok guess I'll do that. Is it ok for the sway bar to just dangle like that?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

just zip tie it up so it doesn't rotate and bump into anything. You shouldn't need it.like that for too long anyway

delhi

Took the end links out. Drive around. The metallic klink is still there. Bummer.
Inspected the links and they are in solid condition with no signs of material fatigue. Pivots well with no loose play.
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