Get some duct tape and tape your foot to your shin....

 

Good point RIWWP, I hadn’t thought about that before. I do agree with 9K though that the fuel wash down carries combustion chamber wear metal down to the sump though thinking about it further.

Maskedferret, are you able to quantify how much time you spend at redline? I only ask bc in my SII I feel like I beat it like a circus monkey and I don’t seem to be showing the same metal patterns in my UOAs.

 

"To the sump", would imply leaking through where? Between the irons and housing? I can see how it would drain past piston rings into the dump on a piston engine, but scratching my head for how stuff in the combustion areas would get back to the oil stream. There isn't a direct path there that gravity can feed.

I'm not saying it can't, just that there isn't something obvious to me.

 

There is a special tightening sequence on the housing bolts to insure that the housings and iron are properly mated and people do believe that doweling the engine helps to further prevent twist. I think at high RPM or on boosted engines that twist would be an issue. But that is just my opinion, a real builder would be more qualified to speak on that.

 

No, unfortunately. My best estimates may be at least once every other weekday I'll make it beep, and more than once a day on the weekend whenever I go out (not all the time). I don't always make a prolonged venture around and above 9k; maybe at least once a week or so? I do tend to drive rather aggressively on the weekends.

My current regimen is to treat 7k as my new ceiling. I'll burn through this cycle of oil, then take a sample after the next to see if the chrome count diminishes.

 

I cant imagine how either, but the fuel has to get there some how. Im certainly not qualifed to speculate the path it enters the oil sump from.

 

Yeah, see how it goes. You do sound easier on your car than I am though in your worst case.

 

I guess I'd be cautious of saying that chrome is from the housings, rather from the e-shaft bearings (or somewhere else in the oil stream? Not sure where all chrome is used)

 

How much of an influence can overtightened pulley belts possibly have on that? (Thinking along the lines of putting undue stress on the e-shaft by pulling it up against the stationary gear.)

 

that is long name for engine blow-by , but you are correct. this would also imply that UOAs only show fraction of the wear in the rotor chambers since most of it finishes in the exhaust?

 

I think it matters and is often over looked. Shady and I actually had this discussion over over Bacon Wrapped jalapeno's

I concur.

 

Just sent a 3000mi sample of M1-0w40, will post as soon as i get the results.

 

I just sent a sample of Castrol GTX 10W30 in for a friend, I'll post up the results soon as well.

 

Here is a sample I sent in for member, Hector Castillo. Time to step it up to 0W-40 and get a SOHN or start premixing Hector

Click on pic if you need to view or download a larger size.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/8206130747/

 

Looks pretty par for the S1s. How much idle time/city driving does the car see?

 

how do i go about getting my oil tested, i dont want to come out like a in-responsible person with my RX-8 but when i got the car i was using the 5W-20 that mazda recommends to use after talking to allot of rotary guys mainly RX7 owner and builders they told me to use synthetic oil cause its better at keeping the engine lubricated so i switched to Valvoline Synthetic 20W-50 during the summer since i drive the car hard and race it at the track, the thing is i own a 2008 RX-8 GT i got the car dynode and it only made 157hp, i spoke to a vendor who also races his RX8 at the circuit track and daily drives it like me and well he told me his 04 RX8 made 178hp and his car has 96k miles thats 3k miles more than my RX8, we spoke for a while and he told me i should not use synthetic he told me to use regular oil and to go with 15W-40 the reason im saying this is because i would like to know what you guys think about this, please be respectful with your opinions and i am thank you for reading and any advice you give me.

also im looking to go back to the regular oil drive the car around for about 2k miles and then have mazda do a compression test see what the numbers look like maybe i can get a rebuild engine from them before the warranty is done on the car, any ideas or tips on this topic would also be helpful.

thank you

 

It's "God's will " that you use Mobil 1 0w40 that lots of guys are having good lab tests with.

Sorry, God made me this way and I couldn't help myself.

 

If you talk to 5 more people, you can get 5 more different opinions, and be even more confused than you are already, and still not haven anything that qualifies as a real answer.

BC.

 

The owner only recently bought the car and it already had a reman in it and over 100k. It was not well maintained so he has spent the last few months upgrading and repairing everything. He doesn't drive it daily but when he does it's mostly city with some highway driving.

 

Im gonna try to send some oil to get analyzed and see how everything looks in my oil. She is just about to hit 30k miles, and you know these remans are a hit or miss! lololololol

 

I guess its not too bad then considering. Rehab can be fun though.

 

Good idea man

Yeah it has been fun seeing his car progress. He just got a full authentic burn out kit and some 19" Volk SF Challenges and it's going into the body shop for a full respray so it will be hot when it returns just in time to go turbo

 

Who da man? I da man

 

Mobil1 pwns Royal Purple.

 

It is very clear by my reports that synthetics are super bad for this motor