I am averaging about 170F on the return line. I did notice on the drive back when my radiator was cracked that my oil temps were about 190 on the return while keeping the coolant temps at the normal 180-190F range. So the oil cooler was working hard to cool the engine since the radiator was leaking. I think I f I was on the stock coolers i would have had to have my car towed to the house.

 

Here is ganseg's UOA

 

do yall think those hard working, hard squeezing rotor stationary gears is what is causing a lot of the oil breakdown?

 

My test showed 1.8% dilution after 2,000 miles. A friend said maybe it is cold starts. Its not the idling (alone) because i don't do that much idling. Where is the oil exposed to gas? I know in a piston engine it is the rings that separates them, but in the rotary what does?

 

Yeah I did some work to my oil lines this weekend and took some oil from the cooler and although the oil looks pretty clear after 2,000 miles I could smell gas in it .

OD, Ganseg, how many miles (I know OD and I have new motors) do you have on your injectors?

 

My car has 40k and I have no record of a prior owner changing injectors.

 

Oh, and FYI, for all of those who say Mazda uses Castrol or their own brand. I took this pic in the rear of a Mazda Dealer shop. I went to buy Diff Fluid and when I peaked out back they had this one and another tank that was 10W-30.

 

And as I predicted, the 06's are starting to show up so it's BS that it's limited to 04's and 05's.

2006 with like 50k

 

how about that----i am wondering about the s2 model.
has anyone done a uoa with synthetic oil?
OD

 

My UOA is with Mobil 1 0W-40. Or do you mean Series II's?

 

Just saw something interesting on BITOG:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...63#Post1683193

 

Bump.

 

That's always been my opinion, the local Millers Oil rep. is seeing if it's feasable to produce this in a 5w30/40 weight:

http://www.millersoils.net/M3_cgi/mi...sport&cart_id=

But I haven't heard back yet.

 

Reports: First is engine, second is trans.

Blackstone continues to BS a bit. That nonsense about apex seals being the source of the higher chromium number is ridiculous. It's coming from the main bearings, like we've all seen here on track-driven RENESIS engine tear-downs. Also I think it's time to go to some thicker gunk. Maybe even that Rotella T, which Wallyworld now stocks in-depth in big jugs.

The transmission report is nice. It reflects the difference I felt when I switched from the stock dyno lube to the Red Line MT-90. Much less metal coming off the parts. Still, the transmission was reluctant to go into fourth on the track when hot. Since I switched the Swepco 201. Weird sticky stuff. Now it bitches about going into 1rst all the time! But it goes into fourth easy hot or cold. Trying to squeak some more life out of a hard-driven transmission...

 

Did you have makeup oil this time? Had you run heavier oil on any of the past tests?

 

No and no.

 

Mobil1 0W-40 from another Texas member. Looks Good

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5283556134/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5283556134/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/9krpmrx8/, on Flickr

 

I ordered a test kit, and I will post the results after this oil change.

 

Cool, I have some results to post up from a run of Rotella T6 5W-40 and Mobil1 0W-40 as well. I am just awaiting the results from my last mobil1 run so I can post them all at once.

 

I think we need more information than just the compounds of the oil after the runs. Unfortunately I don't have the equipment. I will have a compression tester in the next 6 months, and I want to see if theres a difference at the rotors too.

 

Yeah Doc, I usually run a used oil analysis a few times during warranty to see if there's a water leak, and to get a feel for dirt ingestion.

Notice that at 5151 miles, and one years use the silicon (dirt) is 10ppm while the limit is 12, so the air filter is working ok.

If some one wants to track engine longevity, they can put in a vacuum gauge, and watch it go lower as the seals wear over a few years.

My vacuum baseline is 18.5 inches vacuum @ fast idle startup, and 16 inches fully warmed at idle.

That's at 2900ft elevation; it also gets 18 inches fully warmed at 900ft.

 

I need to get a vacuum gauge.

 

You actually put a good number of miles on the oil, and the additives kind of held up. Playing around with different filters I bet you could get those dirt levels down, but it might not just be your filter. They dont seal the the gas station tank covers when they fill the tank, so that fuel gets mixed in with crap off the road. I am sure some of that is coming from the pump.

The vacuum gauge is a good idea, but I would like to be able to test compression as well.

 

3 for $10. Good quality American made vacuum gauges. Not really for dash installation, but fine for the garage:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=79683

No affiliation with the guy.

 

^ On older setups yes, newer setups have plastic tanks and filters before the fuel hits the pumps. That is why I use (and have since the new motor) the new shell station by my house. I talked to a friend of my bosses who owns a construction company and three brand new Exxon Tigermarts..