So i got a turbo timer a couple years back for free, and long story short, it has been sitting in my tool box for several years. i was thinking today and think i want to put it on my series 1.

our house has a single car drive, and several times a week i have to back my car out to let my wife out in her car. so once i pull back into the drive, once she is free, i leave my car running, and go inside.

i wondered if i could use my turbo timer so i can just let it run and for get about it after these cases. that said i want to put a toggle switch on it that allows me activate the timer only when i want to. most of the time my car is warm for shut off, so i don't want to have it running when there is no need. but being able to flip a switch and walk away would be great.

is the switch doable? im open to using relays and such if necessary.

 

A turbo timer would be fine for that, people have done it before.

 

Mazda's official procedure for warming by idle is to finish off with a 10 second rev to 3K rpm. See the Quick Tips manual. So it depends on your paranoia level. Up to date flash and ignition in good condition should bring that down a lot.

I don't find myself in a short trip position often, but when I do I like to drive around the block a couple of times. More fun than sitting still.

Ken

 

Ive had flooding problems before, but with a good ignition and upgraded starter. I run it for leas than a 30 seconds on a regular basis with no problems.

 

Yeah I am never in a rush. The BHR ignition will cure this issue as well if someone wants one less worry.

 

i start mine cold, move it and shut it off all the time, no sign of flooding.*

*its not very cold here. there is only one at this price. Before using this medication, tell your doctor or pharmacist your medical history, especially of: heart problems (such as heart attack or life-threatening irregular heartbeat in the past 6 months, chest pain/angina, heart failure), stroke in the past 6 months, kidney disease, liver disease, high or low blood pressure, a severe loss of body water (dehydration), ***** conditions (such as angulation, fibrosis/scarring, Peyronie's disease), history of painful/prolonged erection (priapism), conditions that may increase the risk of priapism (such as sickle cell anemia, leukemia, multiple myeloma), eye problems (such as retinitis pigmentosa, sudden decreased vision, NAION), bleeding disorders, active stomach ulcers.

Mod Edit -- I'm guessing this is a joke, so I'll leave it....

 

.... whut?

 

fixed

Seriously though .........You are better to spend money on a high voltage starter and ignition/battery maintenance . Then you don't have to do all this warm up and revving before shutdown BS.

 

you could rewire cooling fans and add fans to the oil coolers to the turbo timer. or wire up a few delayed relays to coolant fans and same to oil coolers if you added fans.

i intend to do something similar when my motor goes and i swap in a fresh ported rebuilt 13B MSP, luckily i have lots of spare bits and knowhow from my 300zx TT build from 2009-2012.

You could easily wire a nice turbo timer with a few min delay to shut off, wired into the ignition, so that when motor starts or ignition engaged, it will run for 'x' minutes before shutting down, until it sees no current going to ignition switch (ie shutdown, after 'x' minute delay), and also wire in cooling system fans, though prob not needed.

My 8 has 118k miles on the original motor, starts warm or cold in the same amount of time (under 1.5 sec) with original ignition (i know!!! BHR ignition on the way!!!) coils (wires are newish) and new TSB/Recall starter/battery, compression is still good/great, especially considering original motor/mileage/age. prev owners had all logs of oil (10w30 since first 1000 miles) changes/checks/refills, which i've kept up with in the exact same logbook (i think thats kinda cool, actually).