Okay, i did a search and didn't find anything so I apologize if it is out there. I am contemplating using a turbine oil for my 04 RX8... Any one have any details about this? I work on turbine engines and have access to it. Maybe not a 100 turbine oil but perhaps a mix, a quart or two.. Any remarks.......?

 

Why bother, just use a good oil and change it often. I just searched quickly and the cst numbers of the oil I found are not that great and this oil is not designed for a car engine so I doubt the additive package is there either. Turbine oil is designed to meet totally different standards.

The viscosity @100F of the Shell turbine oil I found is 4.90-5.40, that's low.

Compare that to a good 0W-50 in this thread.

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ct+data+sheets

 

Turbine oil is designed with completely different operating conditions in mind, don't bother.

 

It was just a though since a gen 3 turbine oil is used to cool quickly and burn cleaner...

 

Also. Rotary engines are designed different than a piston engine, try resemble more of the older aircraft radial engines... There is experimentals that use the rotary engine as their powerplant.

 

You have a lot of reading to do

 

Turbine oil will rip the guts right out of your motor.

Death to vital parts.

Bad **** go down.

Itsanono.....

Turbine oils' main purpose is high temperature extreme lubrication, they have no water emulsifiers, detergents, anti-rust, anti-corrosion or acid neutralizers, and have a terrible 'base number' (the ability to absorb and deactivate sulfur and acids).

They also attack MOST plastics and oil seal compounds - synthetic ester oils like these are the reason that Mazda doesn't recommend synthetics - early synths ate the water seal 'O' rings around the housings and destroyed the engines. I was an early (1976) casualty from running the first composition of Mobil1.

Please don't.....

S

 

im just reading... like u stated... learning.. check the link out..

http://www-static.shell.com/static/c...cants/5-15.pdf

 

The oil in your link is a nasty ashless, low additive formula to ensure the plugs don't foul.

.....and it's not a turbine oil.


S

 

You could use Crisco oil like my Neighbor did in his BMW.

 

lol

 

Nice try, glad to see you are attempting to learn. read this article, it will give you a good basic understanding. That is what these forums are for

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

 

they have different blends... N yeah its not a turbine oil. i read the specs n the ones i use on turbines and saw what he was talking about.. we use this oil on our hughes 300C... Im just seeing if anything I have access to hold up in the engine.. IF it would help or hurt the engine..

 

wow... thats a lot to take in.. so a by reading that a 5-30 in houston wouldnt be that bad,,,

 

Um...radial aircraft engines are piston engines. Traditional rotary aircraft engines (like the Le Rhone) have pistons, too.

Ken

 

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/

http://www.dmack.net/mazda/information.html

theres a lot more info out there regarding mazda rotary engines installed in homebuilds....

 

i am aware radial engines have pistons... i tool two off a loadstar so they can be rebuilt... i was just making a reference but not a good one.. wasnt thinking... sorry..

 

if you can just use it for injecting into the housing not for lubricating the eccentric shaft, I dont see why you cant. you can use 2T oil if its just for injecting into the housing.

 

Maybe so, but I suspect a lot more of these have been in the air:

http://www.aviation-history.com/engines/rotary.htm



Ken

 

Maybe, but thats because the FAA or a federal agency approved them for airworthiness certification of aircraft, experimentals and homebuilds r exempt from these rules to a certain extent, you cant use the aircraft under certain parts of the FAR's... Only for personal use..

 

Please do NOT read the oil article on Ferrari chat!!! The guy is obviously very smart as he is a doctor but he is using the logic that since the oil is the life blood of your engine that it must therefore be applicable to compare it to human blood. He makes many assumptions and while they seem logical, many of his conclusions are WRONG!!! There is some good info in there though but unless you know what is and what isn't wrong, it will be nearly impossible to tell which is which. If you already know what is wrong with his article then you don't need to be reading it anyways which means please don't use it to learn about how oils work!

The problem with using a turbine oil in a car engine is that the oils do very different jobs in each place. In a turbine the oil pretty much only lubricates bearings. There is practically no load on their bearings. The only needs to be very thin to lubricate these bearings as the rpms are higher than in a car engine. In a car engine (rotary), the oil is used as a coolant, as a gear lubricant, a seal lubricant, a bearing lubricant, needs to burn cleanly, and will cycle in temperature over a far wider range than a turbine oil will. Even a turbine at idle is still at around 50% of it's max rpm so from a bearing perspective it runs in a more consistent low impact environment.

Don't do it!!!

 

I have read a ton of oil articles and while I am no engineer for sure, I have read conflicting info from different engineers. You have to look at the source I guess. One expert says this and one expert says that. I work in the medical field and it is the same, if you ask five different doctors to evaluate a patient, you will likely get 3-4 different diagnosis'.

When I dove into all this oil stuff I was very confused and it is hard to separate the marketing BS from the real professional opinions.

 

Doesn't it come down to whether the oil meets the API service and ILSAC specs that Mazda specifies? Those ratings are there to keep us from having to match up all of the parameters.

Didn't the early rotaries (like the Le Rhone) use castor oil?

Ken

 

It's not just the service interval that matters, no. Different fuels and different operating conditions produce different non-ideal combustion byproducts, and those byproducts may be harmful. The oil needs to be able to capture and neutralize them before they damage the metal the engine is made from. The air composition at 30,000 feet is vastly different than the air at 1,000 feet, specifically it contains almost no humidity and much less oxygen. The oil used in jet engines is designed to work best inside a jet engine sucking dry, low-oxygen air while running at full-tilt for hours on end, not inside a fixed-displacement engine sucking damp, high-oxygen air while idling in traffic and sucking in other cars' exhaust. These things matter when you're talking about operational lifetimes measured in decades.

 

Just as an FYI, for every 15*F above 160*F the oil temperature rises, cut it's life in half. Your oil will break down twice as fast at 175*F than it will at 160*F. It will break down twice as fast at 190*F than it will at 175*F and so forth and so on. At 205*F your oil has half the life span as it does at 190*F which is only 25% of the life span had it been at 175*F and only a little be over 6% of the life it would have had at 160*F! Your oil change interval should be determined by how hot the oil was and for how long and not on how many miles you travelled on it.