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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 09:22 PM
  #51  
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Polak....what symptoms did you have from the stuck VDI???

Also...speedbleeders rock
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 09:26 PM
  #52  
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Nothing other then my dyno curve didn't have a dip at 7250 and my dyno peeked at 195rwhp instead of the 210 it probably coulda got with a working VDI. I'm anxious to fix the problem, but it seems there is no quick fix as you can't get to that part of the upper intake manifold without taking out the motor..... ?
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 09:32 PM
  #53  
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How did they diagnose this....just from the dyno?? Or did the WDS show it??
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 09:56 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by dannobre
How did they diagnose this....just from the dyno?? Or did the WDS show it??
Do you know for a fact that a WDS tool can see it? If so that would make my trip to asking the dealer to fix it alot easier, Just the dyno see here: https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=171
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 10:55 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Speed Racer
The rears are M10x1.0. I'll have to dig out my receipt to find the actual part number but I believe that it is SB1010.

So to recap:
Front - M8 x 1.0 - SB8100
Rear - M10 x 1.0 - SB1010
Clutch - M7 x 1.0 - SB7100
Before I order there are some conflicting sizes for the SB in this thread was just wondering if anyone else has confirmed that the sizes above are correct.

thanks
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 11:04 PM
  #56  
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MC and Clutch are the same...order 1 M8 1 M7 and 1 M10 and you get enough to do all

Get the bleeding bag as well...it's worth the money
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 01:50 PM
  #57  
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I am getting ready to do some brake work and I am going to get speedbleeders to help with this. I have a couple of questions first...

If I dont do anything to the clutch or clutchline do I need to bleed it?

Also, if I change the brakelines do I have bleed the mastercylinder or can I just bleed in the order of RR-LR-RF-LF?
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 01:57 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by tdiddy
If I dont do anything to the clutch or clutchline do I need to bleed it?
So long as the fluid reservoir doesn't run out, no you do not have to bleed the clutch.

Originally Posted by tdiddy
Also, if I change the brakelines do I have bleed the mastercylinder or can I just bleed in the order of RR-LR-RF-LF?
The M/C is the easiest one to do and Mazda states the order is MC-RR-LR-RF-LF-MC, why take shortcuts on brake work?
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 02:20 PM
  #59  
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Thanks Expo!

I wanted to make sure because I don't want to take any shortcuts with my baby!!
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 05:44 PM
  #60  
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Just an idiot question here, but what do you folks do with the old brake fluid... ??
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 05:49 PM
  #61  
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I have several containers of old brake fluid. One of the shops I deal with accepts old coolant and batteries so at some point I'm gonna try them. Look around for a small shop, preferrably one you deal with, and see it they will take it.
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 08:23 PM
  #62  
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I have a couple of questions.

Do you put back the stock bleeders after using the speedbleeder or can you just leave the speedbleeders in?

I am changin my clutch line and ordered the sb7100s.

Does it matter to get the stainless steel speedbleeders or are the cheaper ones just as good?
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 08:33 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by woodysjh
I have a couple of questions.

Do you put back the stock bleeders after using the speedbleeder or can you just leave the speedbleeders in?

I am changin my clutch line and ordered the sb7100s.

Does it matter to get the stainless steel speedbleeders or are the cheaper ones just as good?
The speedbleeders replace the OEM bleeder screws and there is no reason to remove them after installation because they serve the same purpose as the OEM screws, only better.

As far as stainless vs. the "cheaper ones", I purchased mine at SummitRacing.com because the price was significantly lower than price on the SpeedBleeder web site. They are manufactured by Russell and are made of "steel", and they work just fine. If you can get a stainless steel version for few bucks more it might be worth it. Otherwise, go with the plain steel version.
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 08:56 AM
  #64  
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You don't even really need speedbleeders; all you need to do is run the hose up several inches higher than the caliper and then down to the bottom of the catch container. The hose above the caliper stays full of fluid, preventing air from backing into the caliper. There's no need to close the bleed screw until your done, just pump and release the brake pedal gently.
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 12:25 PM
  #65  
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From: caddyshack
bump because i ran into problems installing speed bleeders

i installed the bleeder onto the master cylinder fine, but accidentally overfilled the resevoir as i was topping it off, spilling quite a bit of brake fluid into the engine bay, had to get a bucket of water to quickly rinse it down.

once the bleeding of the MC is done, i went to the right rear caliper. did anyone have problem with the speed bleeder that, even after it is completely tightened down, it still bleeds when you step on the brake pedal? i couldn't close off the bleeder completely, so i ended up just putting the original bleeder back on and let it 'gravity bleed' for a few minute, actually worked out OK.

then i just stopped doing bleeding work and cleaned up, because i have to go somewhere now.

but yea, my question is, anyone have problems with the bleeder NOT functioning as advertised?
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 12:49 PM
  #66  
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Can you confirm the SB part numbers you have?
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 12:51 PM
  #67  
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I haven't had that problem with speedbleeders. Are you sure you got the correct size? Compare the speedbleeder with the OEM bleeder screw to verify that the length of the threaded part is the same on both. Only other obvious thing is that this particular speedbleeder may be faulty. Try a known good speedbleeder in that caliper to see if that particular speedbleeder screw is, in fact, faulty.
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 05:30 PM
  #68  
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From: caddyshack
these were the Russell speed bleeders from summitracing.com, sizes are:

7mm x 1.0 (for MC)
8mm x 1.0 (for fronts, haven't installed yet)
10mm x 1.0 (for rears, one wouldn't open no matter how much i loosen it, and one wouldn't close even after i tighten it all the way down to the last thread

and even better news, the MC bleeder started leaking when i was taking the car for a drive, i quickly came home and switched back to OE bleeder... wtf

i'm SO returning these failures of speed bleeders back to Summit Racing
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 05:32 PM
  #69  
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but through this ordeal i found an alternative to speed bleeders for one-man brake bleeding: gravity bleeding.

you just open the MC resevoir, loosen the bleeder you want to bleed, and let gravity pull the fluid through. yes it's slow, but so far it has worked PERFECTLY when i reinstalled the 2 OE bleeders back on...
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 01:46 PM
  #70  
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I tried to order all the bleeders from Summit, but they didn't have one of the sizes we are required, are you sure all the sizes were correct? I want to say it was the front 8x1.0, 35 that they had available, but we need 8x1.0, 34.

I ended up ordering the speed bleeders from speedbleeders.com, but two weeks later I haven't heard anything from them yet. Just sent an email and am looking for a reply as to my status.
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 08:08 PM
  #71  
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Ok so after reading through all of this thread......

Does Anybody know the correct speed bleeder sizes for a Mazda RX8?

I can verify that the SB7100 works well for the clutch line.

What about front brakes?

what about the rear brakes?

what about the master cylinder?
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 07:36 AM
  #72  
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SpeedRacer posted the correct sizes:

Front - M8 x 1.0 - SB8100
Rear - M10 x 1.0 - SB1010
Clutch - M7 x 1.0 - SB7100
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 11:22 AM
  #73  
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F***ing Bleeders...

Speedracer and atl8 have the sizes right, don't go by the Speedbleeder website - they still don't list the RX-8, and doughheads on the phone just guess "I'm pretty sure it's the same as the RX-7....."

Close, but no cigar - the SB7100s they sold me for the rears don't fit, should be the SB1010.

...and sending them email is pointless.


S
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 03:20 PM
  #74  
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FYI, Amazon now sells speedbleeders, and cheap.
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 11:02 PM
  #75  
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Just installed mine today, and am having half pedal trouble too, any suggestions? Seems that the pedal has to be about halfway down before getting any engagement on the brakes....
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