Speed Racer

Last weekend I installed a set of stainless brake lines and put in the Speed Bleeders that would fit. The fronts are M8 x 1.0 (SB8100) and the rears look like they are M10 x 1.0 (SM1010). They worked great and a speed up the process of bleeding the brakes. Highly recommended! :D

Rez

I'm looking to install speedbleeders on the clutch line and all four brakes and have looked all through this thread and several others but am still confused as to the correct part numbers to order. Can someone who has actually installed these parts please post the part numbers you used?

AlexCisneros

I emailed them 2 days ago and received this response:

So which one fits??? It seems someone installed the SB8100 on the front and it worked and someone installed the SB7100 and it worked

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

So they don't know, and now they are GUESSING.....

I wrote and told them that what they recommended us to buy was WRONG, and not only do they ignore me and my e-mails, now they GUESS at the right size!

If you buy those 7mm plugs, you will be in the same position as me: they don't fit, and SPEEDBLEEDERS INC don't care.

Infriggincredible!

S

syntrix

that's the sucks! I know we discussed this a long time ago, and I got the info from them directly.

If they haven't fitted it, then they should just say so.

Then tell you, ship it out at cost with a report afterwards... how hard is that?

Awesome product, bad support

Speed Racer

The rears are M10x1.0. I'll have to dig out my receipt to find the actual part number but I believe that it is SB1010.

So to recap:
Front - M8 x 1.0 - SB8100
Rear - M10 x 1.0 - SB1010
Clutch - M7 x 1.0 - SB7100

Rez

Just wanted to post a confirmation that the part numbers Speed Racer listed above are indeed correct. I just got done replacing my clutch line and all 4 brake lines and the speed bleeders worked perfectly.

I did have a small problem, when I ordered the bleeders I specified the SB8100's for my front brakes and asked them to double check my selection. The folks at speed bleeder substituted SB7100's which turned out to be the wrong part. The good news is that they were very nice when I called them to tell them about the mix up, they apologized and offered to send me out the correct parts at no charge. Can't ask for much better customer service than that.

expo1

Does anybody know the size of the bleeder screw on the master cylinder?

(thanks Polak for the good pic)

Speed Racer

I'm pretty sure that I used a SB7100 on the master cylinder.

PoLaK

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys first time bleeder here (let the jokes begin), least i won't be as bad as Imp
This is what I want to do lemme see if I got this right:

I want to replace the clutch line to a SS one, replace the brake lines to SS as well (it’s for a brake kit).

So first I want to flush the system completely or at least 98% of the fluid. So I open the master cylinder and attach a tube to each of my brake lines go in the car and pump the brake peddle until there is no resistance and more afterwards for good measure.
Now I disconnect the clutch slave line, and pump the clutch peddle till all the fluid is drained, I have a DIY for this thx to B-Nez.

At this point is there any reason there should be fluid in the master cylinder, if so how do I empty it?

Now that the brake lines should be fully evacuated of fluid and only have air in them I can uninstall them. I can also install the SS clutch line.

Does anyone have a picture of where I can get a good reach on the brake lines up in the firewall?

With the new lines installed, I attach speed bleeders to all four lines and the clutch line and have tubes from there going into containers.
Next fill the master cylinder up to full put a latex glove over the MC, and then pump the brake peddle followed by the clutch peddle, and collecting any fluid that comes out. Making sure that all the lines are submerged under some fluid refill the MC and put the glove back over, then pump again.

Can I reuse some of the fluid emptying into the containers here since most of the stock DOT3 was evacuated the first time? Or is that bad?

At this point all air should be evacuated from the lines but what about the MC will it have any air in it if I kept it above 3/4 full and had the latex glove over it?

If I do have to bleed the MC what is the procedure? Attach all the brake lines to the calipers and the clutch slave and then attach a speed bleeder to the nut on the MC and then pump the brakes ?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

generally you try to avoid getting air into the MC piston unless you're changing the MC, same goes for the rest of the system. I never empty the old fluid to the point of inducing air into it. Just get the MC reservoir low, add some fluid, pump it out, and repeat using enough fluid until I'm satisfied that the system is reasonably flushed. It usually takes about a liter/quart if you do it right. This is prticularly true with the ABS controller. If you have air in there you'll probably have to refer to the service manual for the procedure to bleed it out.

The typical procedure for bleeding a MC is to disconnect the brake lines exiting it, install fittings with flexible hoses, position the flexible tubes to empty back into the MC reservoir, and then pump the pedal until the air is cleared. Once there's no more air dumping into the reservoir you can disconnect the hoses and install the brake lines to begin filling the rest of the system.

Also, Speedbleeders won't work if there is excessive air in the system because the air will compress rather than opening the Speedbleeder spring valve. You'll need to put the regular bleeders in and get fluid into all the piping, hoses, and calipers and then swap the Speedbleeders in to complete the final bleeding. Thereafter you'll be able to pop open the Speedbleeders and pump fluid through them for flushing/bleeding.

PoLaK

iTrader: (1)

Is this how you will be installing your Racing Brake big brake kit? I thought that a complete flushed system will be the best way to go about it that way you won't have fluid going all over the place when you dissconnecting the rubber lines.

Eh i don't have regular bleeders will 5 friends holding their thumbs on the ends of the 4 brake lines and 1 clutch line work just as well and then once most of the air is gone having them all put on speed bleeders? This is what I planned on doing after seeing how a speedbleeder works.... Or just waiting for gravity to do some of the work?

Yawn time for bed.

staticlag

Speedbleeders were made for 1 person brake bleeding. I think having 5 people help you kind of defeats the purpose.

When I changed to SS lines and speedbleeders, first I did the clutch line, the top nut was a pita and bled that correctly getting new fluid in there by refilling the brake fluid container when it got low. I used an oil pan to catch the brake fluid in the line.

When I changed to SS brake lines I put an oil pan under the lines when I took them off, put on the speedbleeders and it worked fine.

I did the whole job by myself in about 3 hours, some of the nuts were really stuck on there, espically if you have a lot of road dirt stuck up in there.

PoLaK

iTrader: (1)

So your suggesting that i just mix whatever new fluid i have with the old OEM stuff and then bleed out the OEM stuff untill I start seeing the new fluid? I guess this would spell less problems in the end then filling the system with all that air from flushing the OEM stuff out.... but is it as effective or will I not noticed a difference?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

yes, just get it low and then go with the new fluid. Start on the longest leg which should be the right rear and flush it out until clear, making sure the reservoir doesn't go low, then work through the rest of them doing the same.

Did you get the speedbleeder bag/hose combo? This makes it really slick, you don't have to worrry about knocking over or spilling brake fluid with this, just pump it into the sealed bag:

http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/product/BAGANDHOSECOMBO

willhave8

polak, I am not an expert and I am sorry if this is redundent or stating the obvious but it sounds (reads) to me like you are looking to bleed everything at once. A variation on the TeamRX8 input is what I do.

Bleed the MC down, add more fluid, bleed it down, add more fluid, then in sequence do the right rear, left rear, right front, left front and then the MC again topping up the MC along the way.

Be careful not to bleed your MC down too far such that it sucks air into the lines. That is a PITA... Been there done that... Keep topping it up...

This should do a good job of flushing most of your old fluid out. This is the same procedure you should use with or without the speedbleeders. They only allow you to do this job by yourself.

Another tip I have read here... If you switch to ATE Super Blue you will more easily see the 'new' fluid coming out of each brake. Others here have suggested switching back and forth from the Super Blue to 'standard' honey colored DOT 4 (if you track\AutoX) fluid...

Remember not to get any brake fluid on your paint.

El Kabong

OK, so I got some Hawk HPS pads and some speedbleeders for Christmas, and I've got a DE event coming up this weekend.

Had a local brake shop (hint: they specialize in CHECKing your BRAKES) install the pads, install the speedbleeders, and flush out the old brake fluid with the Motorcraft stuff. Would have done it myself this weekend, but the wife had other plans.

OK, so I pick up the car late Saturday afternoon right at closing time, and the pedal is spongy. I take the car out later Saturday night and bed-in the brakes the way Hawk suggests.

Bottom line: the pedal is spongy, but when the brakes do engage, they stop the car much faster than the stock pads did. The car's not dangerous for street driving, but I'm a little worried about this weekend's track event.

I think the guys at the shop forgot to bleed the master cylinder. Shouldn't that be a standard part of replacing the brake fluid/bleeding the brakes?

If they screwed that up, should I be worried that there is air in the clutch line as well? Hard to see how it could have worked its way in there, and it feels fine, but you never know.

Also, I have one SpeedBleeder #7100 screw left. Would that fit the master cylinder? I was going to use it for a SS clutch line, but that may have to wait.

Thanks for any input.

-El Kabong

expo1

Yes SB7100 does fit the MC. I wouldn't do a track event on spongy brakes. Bleed the system again yourself or under your watch MC-RR-LR-RF-LF-MC. If still spongy check the SB to make sure they are in all the way. leaking brake fluid by the wheels would be a sign of this.

El Kabong

Thanks for the suggestion - I've printed out the page from the service manual which details that you have to bleed the MC before and after, andI've gotta go make sure they do it right tonight.

I mean I hate treating the mechanic like he's an idiot but WTF? the pedal is clearly spongy. And all they do is brakes! But for sure no track event unless the brakes are right.

And there's no brake fluid under the car. I'll step hard on the pedal 20 or 30 times before I pull out of my parking space this afternoon, so I can see if I spot any.

expo1

You must have missed the post from the guy that was getting an oil change and the tech forgot to put the oil filter back on.

PoLaK

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys haven't bled mine yet but, but I'm having an issue when under mild to hard braking from 130mph-160mph I'm getting a pretty hard vibration transmits to the steering wheel. Kinda feels like the abs kicking in for no reason, you think this is a result of pretty old and hard used fluid, or something more serious like warped rotors?

Go48

Pull the rotors and have them turned Mark. That's what it sounds like to me and this way you will at least know if it is or not.

willhave8

Mark, where the hell are you doing 130MPH and what's up with 160MPH????

PoLaK

iTrader: (1)

On closed circuts of course , I've touched 159mph on a pretty level surface with probably a bit of a tail wind and a stuck shut VDI (suprized me too).

I just drove back down to New Orleans on Friday, their ain't no law in alabama and most of mississippi and I had to amuse myself with something after the normally 21hour drive (did it in 18 tho) and hell I-59/I-20 toward new orleans is straight for miles and their ain't to many fokes traveling those ways.

I've noticed the problem for a while now, but with higher speed the shake is more noticable.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I doubt that you warped the rotors....I've had mine smokin hot with no problems. More than likely you have uneven pad deposits on the rotors....I'd try really aggressive bedding and see if it helps