yeah i believe you're right it definitely could be the synchros then he'll have to worry about 4th and 6th gear going bad as well! I had a buddy having the same issues and when finally got to shift he'll get a huge kick, almost snapping your neck!

 

If the problem gets so bad that you can't downshift anymore I say get it fixed under warranty. if they try to say it's abuse I would pull out the bullshit card. How can it be abuse if so many people have the same issue, this will be your defense. If you press the issue with a Mazda regional rep, I'm sure they will cave. It's cheaper than dealing with a lawsuit in which their service records can and will be subpoenaed by the plaintiff's lawyer. This will show that the second gear synchro sucks. Mine is having a similar problem but only when I downshift b/w 50 & 55. If it gets to the point were the up shift to third grinds or I can't down shift to 2nd at all without grinding no matter what rpm off to the dealer I will go.

 

I've started marking my filters too. My mitsubishi dealer was worse than my mazda dealer though. I brought it in for a stress crack in the windshield and noted my mileage as I always do along with fuel level. The ***** took my car for a 200 mile joy ride and left me with my fuel light on. When I brought it in, it had a full tank! The best part is the noted both the in and out mileage correctly on the service slip! They claimed it was a "test drive." Since when do you need to test drive a new windshield.

 

I also have this issue when going into 4th. Anyone have their synchronizer replaced and how much did it cost?

Thanks!

 

I have actually found that rev matching with clutch in before engaging into gear DOES help significantly. Usually I will rev a bit higher than needed to allow for better speed match when the clutch is let out. Above it is stated that this should only help with the clutch out? Also, don't underestimate the value of being smooth.

As far as downshifting into 1st, I don't even try unless I'm going under ~8mph, and even then I rev that ***** like hell before engaging the gear.

 

this happenned to me roughly around 30,000 miles and steadily worsenned into inability to go in second at all...now i have a new transmission.

 

oh mine spread to fourth and fifth too.

 

So did you guys end up just completely getting new transmissions or just the synchro replaced?

 

Hi

I bought my RX8 with about 6000 km on the clock. I had the same problem. Luckily i was under motorplan, so they changed the gearbox and clutch for me. The problem stopped for a while but has started again. The mechanics at the garage have told me that the gears are paired to certain ranges of speed that the car is travelling. I have also heard rumours that gear ratios are slightly different depending on which country you live in.

 

wrong, wrong, and wrong.

Have your clutch pedal adjusted ....

 

I had the same problem, even after switching to synthetic tranny oil. The problem with yours is either a bent fork or the second gear synchro is **** (as other people have experienced). I had my transmission replaced under warranty for it (my synchro was bad), and I'm about to get the same done for the 4th gear on my new transmission.

Word of advice- if you have a short shifter, remove it before going in. The dealership will do all they can to blame this on your driving rather than admit they put shitty transmissions on our cars.

 

I'm starting to experience this same issue. If I try and upshift into 2nd gear at high rpm's it grinds as I try and get it into gear.
It doesn't lock me out of the gear, but grinds as it's going in. At first I thought I might have mis-shifted but the clutch is completely in....

sound like 2nd gear synchro?

 

There seem to be a decent amount of related problems.
Bad/weak synchros, bad clutch pedal, bad shift forks

I have very few shift issues 1-6 but my car doesn't like to go into reverse. It's not hard to get into reverse, but it usually takes a 1-2-5-R shift to get it to go all the way in. Otherwise, it'll engage with the synchro and sit there. When I let out the clutch, it won't grind. It'll just zing - it would grind if I was pushing on it probably. Driving in reverse feels clunky, but all the forward gears are strong.

Anyone have any leads on decent tranny parts? This is something I want to start pursuing for when I destroy a tranny and can't get warrantee coverage.

 

SpeedSource has shift forks of their own design. Let us know how much they cost.

 

I'll probably be taking mine in early next week so I'll keep you guys posted...

 

this thread is making me nervous...

 

I'm taking mine to the dealership today....

Wish me luck. I'm going to say what devildog1679 suggested to say, in my defense.

 

Do you happen to have your paperwork? Dealerships around seem to tell me ANY PROBLEM I bring in is unique, and they cannot find another SINGLE RX8 with like-issues. If I had something to show them (a scan of your repair order? Repair order number? or something?) at least i'd have 'ammunition', so to speak.

Thanks

 

word - thanks abbid

 

I took mine in on Thursday for this issue. The service manager went for a spin with me and sure enough....GRIND!!

I got a call yesterday: A new transmission has been ordered.

 

Wow thats crazy they are replacing the entire transmission when the problem could just be the syncrhos!?!?!

 

The same happens to me. Grinding while upshifting to 2nd at high RPMS.

I really want to bring my car to the dealer, so they can look at it. But I got a novice question, how much does it cost for them to inspect it? Do I need to tell them specifically where to look and what to look for. My car is out of warranty, so whatever problem they find will have to go through my Extended (Third Party) Warranty. So how much is a typical diagonosis at a shop?

 

How many miles on your car, Jedi?

 

my money is on the master cylinder plunger rod at the pedal needing to be adjusted. It takes a 12mm wrench to break the holddown nut, you can then turn the plunger rod by hand to remove most of the free play so that the master cylinder piston gets the full travel from the pedal, which in turn provides maximum pressure plate release. You want to have a small amount of clearance though. Adjust the plunger rod by hand until you feel it start to tighten up, then back off a turn or two and lock the nut down

 

dmp: 29,998 and already getting a whole new transmission.