Shifting DOWN into 2nd Gear? Grinding, etc?
06-12-2007, 11:28 AM
#51
RX8 and a Truk....
Thread Starter
Got the report from Mazda:
"We were able to reproduce the problem. There's a solenoid under the pedal - the one which allows the car to start only w/ the clutch pedal is depressed, it's sticking, not allowing the clutch to fully disengage. We've ordered a replacement."
I still think it's the shift fork or a sycnchro...but at least they have a plan-of-attack.
"We were able to reproduce the problem. There's a solenoid under the pedal - the one which allows the car to start only w/ the clutch pedal is depressed, it's sticking, not allowing the clutch to fully disengage. We've ordered a replacement."
I still think it's the shift fork or a sycnchro...but at least they have a plan-of-attack.
06-13-2007, 02:25 AM
#53
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06-13-2007, 12:20 PM
#54
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06-13-2007, 06:46 PM
#55
36,000 KM and mine started today when shifting into 4th over 6000rpm, under that its fine. I'm going to have to nurse it for awhile.
I will not be going into the Dealer, Orangeville Mazda hates me and I hate them!
So should I go to Mr. Transmission or would I be better off at a shop that deals with RX7 & RX8s?
Should I get a new tranny (any alternative transmissions we can use?) or a complete rebuild? (Don't think I'm down with just the syncro's unless it's a lot cheaper. A LOT CHEAPER)
<Start Hi-Jack>
Funny thing I replaced the transmission fluid just this last weekend with RP 75w90. I added the 1.8q as suggested in the Mazda workshop manual. Shifting was nice and smooth, however I do get the RP Stink that most ppl complain about when stopped. I've checked for leaks and overspill <none>
So coincidence? mmmmMMmmm
<end Hi-Jack>
I will not be going into the Dealer, Orangeville Mazda hates me and I hate them!
So should I go to Mr. Transmission or would I be better off at a shop that deals with RX7 & RX8s?
Should I get a new tranny (any alternative transmissions we can use?) or a complete rebuild? (Don't think I'm down with just the syncro's unless it's a lot cheaper. A LOT CHEAPER)
<Start Hi-Jack>
Funny thing I replaced the transmission fluid just this last weekend with RP 75w90. I added the 1.8q as suggested in the Mazda workshop manual. Shifting was nice and smooth, however I do get the RP Stink that most ppl complain about when stopped. I've checked for leaks and overspill <none>
So coincidence? mmmmMMmmm
<end Hi-Jack>
06-14-2007, 02:23 PM
#56
streetfighter
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so, I am confused/new to diagnosing transmission and clutch problems. What I have read from forms and past experiences with cars, is that when shifting at high RPM's and you get grinding, this means that the clutch is going out?
Also if this problem does happen would down-shifting into first also be a sign of this or is this something else?
I only have 25,000 on my car, but I drive hard. and I replace my tranny and diff fluid every 7,000 miles. So, I am hoping its nothing wrong with the transmission.
Also if this problem does happen would down-shifting into first also be a sign of this or is this something else?
I only have 25,000 on my car, but I drive hard. and I replace my tranny and diff fluid every 7,000 miles. So, I am hoping its nothing wrong with the transmission.
Last edited by Shinka-05; 06-14-2007 at 02:37 PM.
06-14-2007, 02:50 PM
#57
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downshifting into 1st is usually not recommended.
grinding at high rpm's doesn't necessarily mean that the clutch is going out. Could be a number of things; shift fork, synchros, bad fluid, etc.
grinding at high rpm's doesn't necessarily mean that the clutch is going out. Could be a number of things; shift fork, synchros, bad fluid, etc.
06-15-2007, 04:03 PM
#58
RX8 and a Truk....
Thread Starter
Well - the dealer has the parts in, but wants ME to take off work to drop off the car because when I'd be able to get there (4:30p) his 'guys are leaving' (their shift ends). I guess he's doing ME a favor, right?
:-/
:-/
06-15-2007, 06:03 PM
#60
Jedi...I got the same issues...bah...and I have YET to put the cat back on and take her in...
Unfortunately the car was sold to me with a short shifter...and also apparently had the MS intake too but according to the service records was removed.
So this should be interesting...
Unfortunately the car was sold to me with a short shifter...and also apparently had the MS intake too but according to the service records was removed.
So this should be interesting...
06-15-2007, 06:11 PM
#61
RX8 and a Truk....
Thread Starter
these'n...
Got the report from Mazda:
"We were able to reproduce the problem. There's a solenoid under the pedal - the one which allows the car to start only w/ the clutch pedal is depressed, it's sticking, not allowing the clutch to fully disengage. We've ordered a replacement."
I still think it's the shift fork or a sycnchro...but at least they have a plan-of-attack.
"We were able to reproduce the problem. There's a solenoid under the pedal - the one which allows the car to start only w/ the clutch pedal is depressed, it's sticking, not allowing the clutch to fully disengage. We've ordered a replacement."
I still think it's the shift fork or a sycnchro...but at least they have a plan-of-attack.
06-15-2007, 06:38 PM
#62
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Jedi...I got the same issues...bah...and I have YET to put the cat back on and take her in...
Unfortunately the car was sold to me with a short shifter...and also apparently had the MS intake too but according to the service records was removed.
So this should be interesting...
Unfortunately the car was sold to me with a short shifter...and also apparently had the MS intake too but according to the service records was removed.
So this should be interesting...
Let me know when you're putting the cat back on, I'll see if I can scrounge up an OEM shifter for ya. Also, don't forget what I mentioned earlier about the fluids.
06-15-2007, 06:38 PM
#63
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dmp: glad they're at least willing to try fixing the clutch, that's definitely a start
06-16-2007, 04:33 PM
#64
jersey fresh
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<Start Hi-Jack>
Funny thing I replaced the transmission fluid just this last weekend with RP 75w90. I added the 1.8q as suggested in the Mazda workshop manual. Shifting was nice and smooth, however I do get the RP Stink that most ppl complain about when stopped. I've checked for leaks and overspill <none>
So coincidence? mmmmMMmmm
<end Hi-Jack>
06-16-2007, 04:49 PM
#65
does your invoice actually state that it was sold with the SS? I'm not questioning you, I've just seen some Mazda Techs blame some pretty lame stuff...
Let me know when you're putting the cat back on, I'll see if I can scrounge up an OEM shifter for ya. Also, don't forget what I mentioned earlier about the fluids.
Let me know when you're putting the cat back on, I'll see if I can scrounge up an OEM shifter for ya. Also, don't forget what I mentioned earlier about the fluids.
I'll probably do the cat tonight or tomarrow...put the original pulley back on...and then change the fluid back...
Oy Vey!
Should probably do a coolant flush while I'm at it and check the plugs...
Check the oil...maybe change it...still got like 1,500 miles left...
You know...I'm starting to think that I somewhat enjoy taking this thing apart...
06-17-2007, 10:58 AM
#66
I run autocrosses that require five 1st/2nd down/up shifts per run, 5 runs per session, two sessions per day
that's 50 total full bore down/up shifts between 1st and 2nd gear in a day of autocrossing, never grinds ..
the day will come when it just blows up though ...
that's 50 total full bore down/up shifts between 1st and 2nd gear in a day of autocrossing, never grinds ..
the day will come when it just blows up though ...
06-17-2007, 09:07 PM
#67
DITTO, after the fluid (same fluid) replace i've been gettin grinds going from 6000 rpm and over (4th gear.) I ordered redline shockproof heavy, and i'm going to attempt to look at plunger rod that Team mentioned. I highly doubt my trans is going, logic says it's the rp fluid. I also noticed that it happens alot more once the trans gets up in temp. I will investigate this further......
I'm looking forward to your next post on this.
06-19-2007, 04:41 PM
#68
RX8 and a Truk....
Thread Starter
Got the call - they said they've fixed my car. Leaving work in a bit to pick it up - with plenty of time to test-drive it to make SURE, then take it back if need be.
06-19-2007, 04:54 PM
#69
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
good luck DMP.
06-19-2007, 06:08 PM
#70
RX8 and a Truk....
Thread Starter
Customer states car will not downshift into 2nd gear w/o popping regardless of MPH
(Not true - what I said was this: Car wont go into 2nd gear above 40mph - 30-39mph it'll go, but it grinds a bit)
Found TSB 05-011/06 to replace clutch switch
Replaced Switch
Verified Repairs
Job #1 FP Number: D374-66-AD0A Switch -
Result? NO difference. Didn't do anything to remedy the problem. I called him on the way home; he'll "call the tech line" and get back with me.
:-/
(Not true - what I said was this: Car wont go into 2nd gear above 40mph - 30-39mph it'll go, but it grinds a bit)
Found TSB 05-011/06 to replace clutch switch
Replaced Switch
Verified Repairs
Job #1 FP Number: D374-66-AD0A Switch -
Result? NO difference. Didn't do anything to remedy the problem. I called him on the way home; he'll "call the tech line" and get back with me.
:-/
06-20-2007, 10:27 AM
#73
because the clutch pedal travels and the clutch master cylinder piston doesn't
it's not loose per se, there is a spring loaded cap that the plunger rod contacts and displaces before the master cylinder piston is engaged. You have to adjust the plunger to close the spring-loaded gap to the master piston. Then you get maximum master cylinder piston travel, which displaces the slave cylinder the maximum amount, which in turn displaces the pressure plate release the maximum amount
in short, when you have excess plunger rod travel the pressure plate is not releasing far enough, which is going to cause this problem
which gear it affects is usually related to which synchro hangs slightly and starts grinding as a result, it then compounds from there, typically the high rpm grind is directly related to this particular adjustment
it's not loose per se, there is a spring loaded cap that the plunger rod contacts and displaces before the master cylinder piston is engaged. You have to adjust the plunger to close the spring-loaded gap to the master piston. Then you get maximum master cylinder piston travel, which displaces the slave cylinder the maximum amount, which in turn displaces the pressure plate release the maximum amount
in short, when you have excess plunger rod travel the pressure plate is not releasing far enough, which is going to cause this problem
which gear it affects is usually related to which synchro hangs slightly and starts grinding as a result, it then compounds from there, typically the high rpm grind is directly related to this particular adjustment
Last edited by TeamRX8; 06-20-2007 at 10:30 AM.
06-20-2007, 10:54 AM
#75
because the clutch pedal travels and the clutch master cylinder piston doesn't
it's not loose per se, there is a spring loaded cap that the plunger rod contacts and displaces before the master cylinder piston is engaged. You have to adjust the plunger to close the spring-loaded gap to the master piston. Then you get maximum master cylinder piston travel, which displaces the slave cylinder the maximum amount, which in turn displaces the pressure plate release the maximum amount
in short, when you have excess plunger rod travel the pressure plate is not releasing far enough, which is going to cause this problem
which gear it affects is usually related to which synchro hangs slightly and starts grinding as a result, it then compounds from there, typically the high rpm grind is directly related to this particular adjustment
it's not loose per se, there is a spring loaded cap that the plunger rod contacts and displaces before the master cylinder piston is engaged. You have to adjust the plunger to close the spring-loaded gap to the master piston. Then you get maximum master cylinder piston travel, which displaces the slave cylinder the maximum amount, which in turn displaces the pressure plate release the maximum amount
in short, when you have excess plunger rod travel the pressure plate is not releasing far enough, which is going to cause this problem
which gear it affects is usually related to which synchro hangs slightly and starts grinding as a result, it then compounds from there, typically the high rpm grind is directly related to this particular adjustment