Safety System for Flooding Issue on Low Engine Temp Shut-offs
10-20-2009, 12:29 AM
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Safety System for Flooding Issue on Low Engine Temp Shut-offs
I have been working on trying to create a system for the flooding issue people run into when they start their car up when its operating temps are low and then shut it off a few seconds later before its completely warmed up.
The attachments are a sketch, just a sketch, I came up with on how to possibly prevent this, and the operational steps the system goes through.
I made a previous post asking i anyone has created this system yet, and i am assuming it hasnt been made.
hope you guys take the time to check it out and criticize the hell out of it so we can possibly perfect it, and put this issue to the past.
The attachments are a sketch, just a sketch, I came up with on how to possibly prevent this, and the operational steps the system goes through.
I made a previous post asking i anyone has created this system yet, and i am assuming it hasnt been made.
hope you guys take the time to check it out and criticize the hell out of it so we can possibly perfect it, and put this issue to the past.
10-20-2009, 12:30 AM
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Operational Instructions
I couldnt find a way to upload the instructions, so I copied and pasted it:
1. Diagram shows how system would look if car had no power going to it. Once key is turned, Ignition Switch allows power to motor and once turned over, ignition sw. opens, killing that circuit.
2. Power would then redirect towards the Safety Switch but would stop there because safety switch is open. The Safety Switch would be physically closed by the driver to activate “Safe Mode” which allows power to consistently be put to the motor.
3. After the safety switch, the circuit will come across the Coolant Temp Sensor Relay (or some device that can read when operating temps reach normal or cold), which will be closed because relay stays closed during “cold” operating temps, will then open up once normal operating temps are reached. This in turn cuts off the circuit from continuing to the motor, because motor is now safe to be cut off.
4. Once the Coolant Temp Sensor Relay opens, electricity will redirect itself to the Safety Switch Ground Control Relay(SSGCR).
5. The SSGCR is sprung closed and electrically opened, so once power goes to the SSGCR, the relay opens up, and cuts the ground off for the Safety Switch, making the Safety Switch open.
**We want this circuit to occur because once you get out of your car and it turns off after it has reached normal operating temps, a few hours later after it reaches “cold” operating temps, it will turn back on because the Safety Switch would of still been open allowing motor to turn over. This circuit is an automatic system to open the Safety Switch, after motor has warmed up, and the only way to reactivate it is before you start your car in the morning, to flip this switch closed after you have turned the car on.
6. The purpose of the resistor before the SSGCR is to prevent electricity from getting to the SSGCR and opening the Safety Switch while the system is trying to protect your car until it is warmed up. During normal operations of this system, electricity will take the path of least resistance and flow by this resistor and towards the motor to keep it on. Once the Coolant Temp Sensor Relay closes, the electricity has no choice but to go to the SSGCR, because that circuit has now become the path of least resistance.
7. Now that the ground for the Safety Switch is cut off, we have to get the Safety Switch to get its ground back to close so when we go to our cars in the morning we can just flip the switch closed, and not have to worry about it flipping right back to open. This is why the SSGCR’s circuit starts after the Safety Switch, because once the SSGCR cuts the Safety Switch’s ground, Safety Switch will open, cutting power off to the SSGCR and placing it back to closed, putting the system in ready mode to be activated again.
8. The Safety Switch also acts as a Kill Switch for the system, so if for some odd reason you just have to cut the motor off before it is warmed up, you just physically flip the switch to open (if you activated it in the first place) to prevent the system from keeping your car on.
9. The Safety Switch Light will illuminate to tell when the system needs to be activated. When the Coolant Temp Sensor Relay is closed, the ground is complete for the Safety Switch Light so it will illuminate showing motor is not at operating temps. When Coolant Temp Sensor Relay opens, light deactivates showing that motor is at operating temps and it is safe for car to turn off.
1. Diagram shows how system would look if car had no power going to it. Once key is turned, Ignition Switch allows power to motor and once turned over, ignition sw. opens, killing that circuit.
2. Power would then redirect towards the Safety Switch but would stop there because safety switch is open. The Safety Switch would be physically closed by the driver to activate “Safe Mode” which allows power to consistently be put to the motor.
3. After the safety switch, the circuit will come across the Coolant Temp Sensor Relay (or some device that can read when operating temps reach normal or cold), which will be closed because relay stays closed during “cold” operating temps, will then open up once normal operating temps are reached. This in turn cuts off the circuit from continuing to the motor, because motor is now safe to be cut off.
4. Once the Coolant Temp Sensor Relay opens, electricity will redirect itself to the Safety Switch Ground Control Relay(SSGCR).
5. The SSGCR is sprung closed and electrically opened, so once power goes to the SSGCR, the relay opens up, and cuts the ground off for the Safety Switch, making the Safety Switch open.
**We want this circuit to occur because once you get out of your car and it turns off after it has reached normal operating temps, a few hours later after it reaches “cold” operating temps, it will turn back on because the Safety Switch would of still been open allowing motor to turn over. This circuit is an automatic system to open the Safety Switch, after motor has warmed up, and the only way to reactivate it is before you start your car in the morning, to flip this switch closed after you have turned the car on.
6. The purpose of the resistor before the SSGCR is to prevent electricity from getting to the SSGCR and opening the Safety Switch while the system is trying to protect your car until it is warmed up. During normal operations of this system, electricity will take the path of least resistance and flow by this resistor and towards the motor to keep it on. Once the Coolant Temp Sensor Relay closes, the electricity has no choice but to go to the SSGCR, because that circuit has now become the path of least resistance.
7. Now that the ground for the Safety Switch is cut off, we have to get the Safety Switch to get its ground back to close so when we go to our cars in the morning we can just flip the switch closed, and not have to worry about it flipping right back to open. This is why the SSGCR’s circuit starts after the Safety Switch, because once the SSGCR cuts the Safety Switch’s ground, Safety Switch will open, cutting power off to the SSGCR and placing it back to closed, putting the system in ready mode to be activated again.
8. The Safety Switch also acts as a Kill Switch for the system, so if for some odd reason you just have to cut the motor off before it is warmed up, you just physically flip the switch to open (if you activated it in the first place) to prevent the system from keeping your car on.
9. The Safety Switch Light will illuminate to tell when the system needs to be activated. When the Coolant Temp Sensor Relay is closed, the ground is complete for the Safety Switch Light so it will illuminate showing motor is not at operating temps. When Coolant Temp Sensor Relay opens, light deactivates showing that motor is at operating temps and it is safe for car to turn off.
10-20-2009, 09:41 AM
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The newer flashes from Mazda have a provision where you can depress the gas pedal and crak the engine without injecting more fuel. This should work for the vast majority of cases.
If that above provision does not, you are looking at pulling plugs and cleaning, etc...etc...
edit: what worked well on my RX-7 was a fuel pump switch, and I would simply kill that voltage to the pump when the engine was flooded and as soon as it started I'd flick the switch and be on my way. But basically Mazda has done this with the above pedal procedure.
If that above provision does not, you are looking at pulling plugs and cleaning, etc...etc...
edit: what worked well on my RX-7 was a fuel pump switch, and I would simply kill that voltage to the pump when the engine was flooded and as soon as it started I'd flick the switch and be on my way. But basically Mazda has done this with the above pedal procedure.
10-20-2009, 11:36 AM
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well, i guess my main goal was to create a basic system of how things would work, if this system was refined and tuned up a bit, it might be able to be turned into an automatic system, something that would happen without the driver having to do or watch anything at all.
10-20-2009, 02:19 PM
#6
Huge hole is huge
The newer flashes from Mazda have a provision where you can depress the gas pedal and crak the engine without injecting more fuel. This should work for the vast majority of cases.
If that above provision does not, you are looking at pulling plugs and cleaning, etc...etc...
edit: what worked well on my RX-7 was a fuel pump switch, and I would simply kill that voltage to the pump when the engine was flooded and as soon as it started I'd flick the switch and be on my way. But basically Mazda has done this with the above pedal procedure.
If that above provision does not, you are looking at pulling plugs and cleaning, etc...etc...
edit: what worked well on my RX-7 was a fuel pump switch, and I would simply kill that voltage to the pump when the engine was flooded and as soon as it started I'd flick the switch and be on my way. But basically Mazda has done this with the above pedal procedure.
Hopefully the 16x with direct injection will help to curve the flooding, though......
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