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S2 water pump is factory underdriven

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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 11:56 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Mazmart
For reference, comparison and for the fun of it, here are the 3 pumps in question.
Thanks for the comparison photo.

So the S2 impeller is the one with the "inverted" blades? If so, it looks like it requires more torque but less RPM to move the same amount of liquid.
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 12:37 PM
  #27  
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^It's got a much wider operating range with better flow and the underdrive pulley only helps with that at high revs as it stops the pump getting into heavy cavitation.

The S2 pump does fit on the S1 engine with a small modification to the casing (Mazda altered one of the bolt locations by 1/2D on the S2 to the S1 engine.
To be honest, you could just leave that bolt out with a new o-ring, it seals fine.

To be honest, I thought I'd mentioned this last year when we stuck the S2 engine in, but might have forgotten, or it's buried in a thread somewhere.

Last edited by PhillipM; Jul 22, 2011 at 02:51 PM.
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 12:52 PM
  #28  
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From: Norwood, NJ
Originally Posted by PhillipM
The S2 pump does fit on the S1 engine with a small modification to the casing (Mazda altered one of the bolt locations by 1/2D on the S2 to the S1 engine.
To be honest, you could just leave that bolt out with a new o-ring, it seals fine.
Thanks. Good to know.
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 02:42 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by PhillipM
^It's got a much wider operating range with better flow and less cavitation, the underdrive pulley only helps with that at high revs as it stops the pump getting into heavy cavitation.

The S2 pump does fit on the S1 engine with a small modification to the casing (Mazda altered one of the bolt locations by 1/2D on the S2 to the S1 engine.
To be honest, you could just leave that bolt out with a new o-ring, it seals fine.

To be honest, I thought I'd mentioned this last year when we stuck the S2 engine in, but might have forgotten, or it's buried in a thread somewhere.
so swapping out S1 for S2 water pump would be a good mod and we should not bother with drilling the extra hole in order to get the all bolt holes to line up.

Last edited by Nadrealista; Mar 25, 2013 at 07:43 AM.
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 02:48 PM
  #30  
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^Nothing wrong with opening the hole to suit, 2 minutes with a file sorts it out.
Used it without the bolt in for a while with no issue though.
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 05:10 PM
  #31  
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To follow up. My water pump started leaking so I decided to upgrade to the S2 pump.

Few notes for people who decide to do the same. As Phillipm mentioned S2 water pump is not perfect fit to S1 engine. Bottom left hole does not align with stud and there is not enough 'meat to file it down enough to fit the pump so you have to pull the stud out. Also don't forget to order S2 pulley since S1 will not fit.
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 05:30 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Nadrealista
To follow up. My water pump started leaking so I decided to upgrade to the S2 pump.

Few notes for people who decide to do the same. As Phillipm mentioned S2 water pump is not perfect fit to S1 engine. Bottom left hole does not align with stud and there is not enough 'meat to file it down enough to fit the pump so you have to pull the stud out. Also don't forget to order S2 pulley since S1 will not fit.
So therefore if you are fixing the S2 pump on S1 with one less stud or nut, are you not risking a coolant leak @ pump?
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 06:03 AM
  #33  
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You can file the hole into a slot and even though you break through the outside of the casting there's still plenty to clamp down on, but like I say, I used it for a long time with the bolt missing with no issue.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 07:26 PM
  #34  
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thanks for stating it again for those who missed it the first time
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 07:50 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by PhillipM
You can file the hole into a slot and even though you break through the outside of the casting there's still plenty to clamp down on, but like I say, I used it for a long time with the bolt missing with no issue.
Thanks Phillip..

You also need to replace Pump Pulley with S2 one.
Plus how did you go with the S1 Pulley Belt (vvvvv) as Mazda changed it on S2's at the same time and made it specific with these changes to Pump and Pulley...or do you use a different drive belt to the S2 OE for your RE (Renny II) powered buggy?

I have not made a direct physical comparison between the S1 (N3H1-18-381A) and S2 (N3R1-18-381) vvvvv Belt , AFAIK it is only in Belt Length (shorter or longer, not their Belt profiles)?.

My take to use an S2 Water Pump on an S1 would need the following Mod and Parts changes.

N3R1-15-100 Water Pump (Must File OUT Stud Hole)
N3R1-15-131 Water Pump Pulley
N3R1-18-381 V Belt??
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 03:54 AM
  #36  
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hmmmm im gonna try this when im back to nyc.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 04:09 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Mazmart
The S1 can drive a liquid relatively well in a limited range (They all do to some extent) but the similarity to a blender wheel is troubling to say the least. You don't want to churn, you want to smoothly move the water. The S1 is guaranteed to create turbulence.

Paul.
Just curious, have you or anyone under driven your water pump?

Was it worthwhile or not a good idea?

Thinking about picking up the SuperNow Pulleys and didn't want any issue with your waterpump
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 04:46 AM
  #38  
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underdrive? yes
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 06:46 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by PhillipM
You can file the hole into a slot and even though you break through the outside of the casting there's still plenty to clamp down on, but like I say, I used it for a long time with the bolt missing with no issue.
Actally you have to file toward inside where the rubber seal is. Problem is that to line it up properly with the bottom left stud you would have to file into the rubber seal. The only way to make the pump work is by pulling that stud out and using the silicone as a gasket. It will leak without silicone!

I didnt have time to monkey with silicone so i just put in new s1 pump. Maybe next time.

Last edited by Nadrealista; Mar 25, 2013 at 07:44 AM.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 08:19 AM
  #40  
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let's try it one more time

Originally Posted by PhillipM
but like I say, I used it for a long time with the bolt missing with no issue.
Originally Posted by PhillipM
To be honest, you could just leave that bolt out with a new o-ring, it seals fine.
.

Last edited by TeamRX8; Mar 14, 2013 at 08:22 AM.
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 08:36 AM
  #41  
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I never had an issue with it, seems Nad is after a few PM's, I'm not sure why, but I haven't got that engine any more to have a look and see what might be the issue there.
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