an RX8er's rebuild thread
12-14-2012, 10:15 AM
#1656
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Oil temps have been a non issue for me with my current setup. I am actually of the opinion that the stock coolers with custom lines (or modified Racing Beat overpriced lines) with the stock thermostats removed and a proper oil thermostat installed is the way to go. I am basically running that now and I really have to struggle to get my oil temps above 210F and that is with the turbo adding heat to the coolant and the oil.
I'm still on the fence about secondary radiators, my coolant temps are great but every once in while when the ambient temps are in the 100F range it gets heat soaked it takes some cruise time to cool down to normal because the turbo is adding so much heat to it. The fan on my secondary radiator is pointless, it does nothing to drop temps any quicker.
I'm still on the fence about secondary radiators, my coolant temps are great but every once in while when the ambient temps are in the 100F range it gets heat soaked it takes some cruise time to cool down to normal because the turbo is adding so much heat to it. The fan on my secondary radiator is pointless, it does nothing to drop temps any quicker.
12-14-2012, 10:53 AM
#1658
The reason I asked is that two respected builders have said to not let this engine get oil temps over 200F from the engine for any length of time. They are talking about DD stuff--not on the track--canyon running or going to the latest release of Batman......
Heck Rick at Mazmart even showed me the critical areas within the engine that he thought would be affect by consistent oil temps of 200F+ --the front bearing and stationary gears--not so much the rotor bearings or e shaft. He thinks that it has an affect on the longevity of the engine.
The other builder is Racing Beat and their tech papers: "Oil temperature is critical in rotary engines. Oil temperature entering the engine should never be allowed to exceed 205°F." is a direct quote from them.
Since most of us measure on the cool side--i do wonder what the delta in between the temps at engine exit and the post coolers?
I know most people in Ga are seeing right at ot a little more than 200F post oil coolers.
IDK--what do yall think?
By the way I finally glued the horn on the bull--he started looking kinda pitifull with just one horn--his eys would follow me across the room......
Heck Rick at Mazmart even showed me the critical areas within the engine that he thought would be affect by consistent oil temps of 200F+ --the front bearing and stationary gears--not so much the rotor bearings or e shaft. He thinks that it has an affect on the longevity of the engine.
The other builder is Racing Beat and their tech papers: "Oil temperature is critical in rotary engines. Oil temperature entering the engine should never be allowed to exceed 205°F." is a direct quote from them.
Since most of us measure on the cool side--i do wonder what the delta in between the temps at engine exit and the post coolers?
I know most people in Ga are seeing right at ot a little more than 200F post oil coolers.
IDK--what do yall think?
By the way I finally glued the horn on the bull--he started looking kinda pitifull with just one horn--his eys would follow me across the room......
12-14-2012, 11:30 AM
#1659
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
I think it depends on the oil used and it's condition but from what I have read, you actually want the oil to be in the 200F range if you are driving hard. I (and Grungepups stock 8 for a comparison) used to measure oil temps in the pan and honestly we never saw a huge difference in temps so I went back to reading it at the oil filter adapter. I do plan on comparing the data once shady gets his Corksport sensor adapter installed at the factory banjo fitting.
I definitely think excessive oil temps and inferior oil that is allowed to get broken down is a bad thing for longevity. But it's overall temps for both the coolant and oil that are really important as well as allowing enough time to cool down before hitting it hard again because heat soak is a bitch. Houstonrx8er hit the track recently at the Corksport event we attended, I'm not sure what temps he was seeing, it was a pretty warm day.
I'm glad you got the bull fixed and have a piece of Texas in your home
I definitely think excessive oil temps and inferior oil that is allowed to get broken down is a bad thing for longevity. But it's overall temps for both the coolant and oil that are really important as well as allowing enough time to cool down before hitting it hard again because heat soak is a bitch. Houstonrx8er hit the track recently at the Corksport event we attended, I'm not sure what temps he was seeing, it was a pretty warm day.
I'm glad you got the bull fixed and have a piece of Texas in your home
12-14-2012, 01:34 PM
#1660
I think it depends on the oil used and it's condition but from what I have read, you actually want the oil to be in the 200F range if you are driving hard. I (and Grungepups stock 8 for a comparison) used to measure oil temps in the pan and honestly we never saw a huge difference in temps so I went back to reading it at the oil filter adapter. I do plan on comparing the data once shady gets his Corksport sensor adapter installed at the factory banjo fitting.
I definitely think excessive oil temps and inferior oil that is allowed to get broken down is a bad thing for longevity. But it's overall temps for both the coolant and oil that are really important as well as allowing enough time to cool down before hitting it hard again because heat soak is a bitch. Houstonrx8er hit the track recently at the Corksport event we attended, I'm not sure what temps he was seeing, it was a pretty warm day.
I'm glad you got the bull fixed and have a piece of Texas in your home
I definitely think excessive oil temps and inferior oil that is allowed to get broken down is a bad thing for longevity. But it's overall temps for both the coolant and oil that are really important as well as allowing enough time to cool down before hitting it hard again because heat soak is a bitch. Houstonrx8er hit the track recently at the Corksport event we attended, I'm not sure what temps he was seeing, it was a pretty warm day.
I'm glad you got the bull fixed and have a piece of Texas in your home
...thats why I changed to electronic gauges and added a shroud
12-14-2012, 06:07 PM
#1663
Some of them having been saying it for decades without consideration for the Renesis in particular, some builders compensate for it with clearances. The issue at hand is when you build an engine you are trying to half-*** piece together what you have heard, read, guessed at, and likely f'd up on as a result.
An engine builder like Daryll Drummond likely has 100+ Renesis race engines to his credit. If you think having an engine show up at your doorstep in a sealed container broken in with a dyno sheet doesn't have value then you are even dumber than I claim you are.
Ps: I didn't have to hear what I already knew for a fact before you even started, it's called experience
.
An engine builder like Daryll Drummond likely has 100+ Renesis race engines to his credit. If you think having an engine show up at your doorstep in a sealed container broken in with a dyno sheet doesn't have value then you are even dumber than I claim you are.
Ps: I didn't have to hear what I already knew for a fact before you even started, it's called experience
.
12-14-2012, 07:28 PM
#1664
I just followed the instructions (mazda has some really good ones )....1 exception...stupid Atkins seals.....I bought into the gossip about cryo treatment and have since learned my lesson. I don't argue for 1 sec that Daryll's engine is, to some degree, built better than mine....I don't have 100+ engine builds..... doesn't mean with a little learning and opening dialogue (with ppl like Charles, Rob and ppl like you on the forum) one cant accomplish a successful build 
)....1 exception...stupid Atkins seals.....I bought into the gossip about cryo treatment and have since learned my lesson. I don't argue for 1 sec that Daryll's engine is, to some degree, built better than mine....I don't have 100+ engine builds..... doesn't mean with a little learning and opening dialogue (with ppl like Charles, Rob and ppl like you on the forum) one cant accomplish a successful build
12-14-2012, 09:31 PM
#1665
Some of them having been saying it for decades without consideration for the Renesis in particular, some builders compensate for it with clearances. The issue at hand is when you build an engine you are trying to half-*** piece together what you have heard, read, guessed at, and likely f'd up on as a result.
An engine builder like Daryll Drummond likely has 100+ Renesis race engines to his credit. If you think having an engine show up at your doorstep in a sealed container broken in with a dyno sheet doesn't have value then you are even dumber than I claim you are.
Ps: I didn't have to hear what I already knew for a fact before you even started, it's called experience
.
An engine builder like Daryll Drummond likely has 100+ Renesis race engines to his credit. If you think having an engine show up at your doorstep in a sealed container broken in with a dyno sheet doesn't have value then you are even dumber than I claim you are.
Ps: I didn't have to hear what I already knew for a fact before you even started, it's called experience
.
12-19-2012, 07:36 AM
#1673
I am working on it but its a slow process to do right (I am building a project plan like yours...........If I am going to carry unnecessary weight it better at least function
next time I am cutting weight and visqueening the opening closed
......If I am going to carry unnecessary weight it better at least function next time I am cutting weight and visqueening the opening closed
