Buy FP60 from straight from Lube Control at the site below:

http://www.lubecontrol.com/

Idemitsu can be bought from Rotary Performance at the link below:

http://www.rx7.com/store/rx8/rx8engine_maintenance.html

 

Lubrication will allow the bolt to make more turns before reaching a given torque compared to an unlubricated bolt. Thus, there will be more strain and elongation of the lubricated bolt. The RX-8 torque specs for the wheel lugs is quite high. If you torque to that value with lubricated threads you may very well exceed the limits of the bolts. This is one reason why wheel lugs should not be lubricated.

Now we'll see a few posts of people who "always lubricate my wheel lugs and never have any problems", but does not invalidate my point.

 

So a rusty nut and bolt at 25 Ft lb's is torqued less than a lubricated nut and bolt at 25 Ft lb's

Sorry, just not how it works...

 

Coop, you're misunderstanding the point of torque. It's not actually the torque that matters. It's the stretch of the fastener.

Torque on the nut is actually a very poor measure of fastener stretch because the friction on the threads is a huge portion of the resistance. If you change this friction, you'll end up with wildly varying amounts of stretch in the bolt for the same amount of applied torque.

Yes, the torque applied to the outside of the nut is the same in all cases. The number of turns the nut makes before reaching that torque will change a lot based on friction, and the number of turns is actually what you want to control because it relates more to bolt stretch.

Look up anti-seize manufacturers and you'll see they usually tell you to torque x% less when using their product, but even this is a pretty poor estimate.

 

For most bolts, thread lubrication before torquing is OK, when new there is no rust and probably a little residual lube present.

The actual contact face of the stud must stay clean and unlubed or risk loosening.

S

 

Years ago I had a couple of annoying experiences with lug nuts that would not come off - they were frozen in place. No overt corrosion - just the customary grey patina - but they wouldn't budge with normal lug wrenches. One took an impact wrench to remove, the other took a breaker bar along with a Sacred Ceremonial Cheater.

Ever since then I've always lubed lug nuts, both the thread and the tapered seat. Just a drop of engine oil. (Good supply at the end of the dipstick if I was roadside.) Tighten to specs with a torque wrench. Never had one come off or even seem to be looser than it should have been.

Generally, when the amount of tightening is critical, the torque spec is for a lubricated bolt. For example, one always lubricates head bolts. Torquing a dry fastener is pretty unpredictable. I suspect that lug nuts are speced dry because people are not likely to lubricate when they change a flat tire.

Ken

 

good read. im liking the night and day difference. thats a good sign. glad to hear it.

 

Update - Completed the OMP Adapter install and have been running on Idemitsu Premix for the OMP Oil feed while still adding the FP60 to the gas (1 oz per 5 gallons rate).

I have noticed that the 8 now seems to be burning much, much cleaner as it has almost totally eliminated any exhaust tip carbon (original exhaust as I have not received the Hymee exhaust I ordered yet). There is almost no carbon now and what is there is lighter in color - which indicates to me a much more complete, cleaner burning combustion.

I highly recommend this duo formula to others as well.

 

Did you buy the Adapter and the "Adjuster"?

 

I only bought the Adapter as I am letting the Computer control flow rate via the latest update. I think the new flow rate is enough lubrication (feeding the Idemitsu and using FP60 in the tank) so I did not get the adjuster.

But for others that want/need even more lubrication, especially FI engines, the adjuster would be a very good add-on as it is only about $20 more.

 

cool - thanks.

 

[QUOTE=Torque is torque lubrication does not affect the amount, it just lets you get there with less resistance. I assume you are using a torque wrench.

Never use anti-seize (copper coat) on wheel studs or hubs, wi never properly torque and causes things to come loose. Personal experience from being a tire technician for ever, so many times customers install own wheels with copper coat and their wheels come loose

 

Little offtopic sorry ...

@sonicblue6: If u use the Adjuster the ECU will go into limp mode so u Need to work
around ... ist not needed for the RX-8 .. u can adjust the amount in the ECU.

Oh .. and antiseize on wheelstuds is forbidden in Germany ... just fyi


Greetings
Thomas

 

8year old topic boys.

 

I just answered ... hehehe