rx8 reliability mods (cheap and DIY)
I wanted to start this thread, because I continuously see threads that contain information on small mods or add ons that can improve your 8's performance or reliability. if you have any to add I would appreciate you PMing me so that we can update continuously and have a concise point by point thread.
PREMIX Many 8 owners are now Premixing addatives when they fill up their gas tank. For this you should pour it into your gas tank then fill up your tank with PREMIUM FUEL. Some may say that you can use 87 octane, however, 91 is what the 8 is meant to have so it runs as smooth as possible for the longest time. Idemitsu Racing Rotary Fuel Lube (Premix) - Synthetic Blend is the rotory enthusiasts blend. It was made specificaly for rotory engines. Second on the line is Castol Super 2 Stroke. Links: Premix oil thread https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=premix TRANNY AND DIFFERENTIAL OIL REPLACEMENT Many rx8 owners have also expressed a love for swapping the stock tranny and diff fluid for ROYAL PURPLE fluid. This is said to ease the shifting on a manual rx8 and also make it run smoother. Links: Best how to on replacing fluid (with pics) http://www.5cats.org/rx8/trans_diff_refill/ THROTTLE BODY BYPASS MOD This is very important for those who live in hot temperatures. Many have said to get a marble or sand in a can sound and it seems as though a contributing solution to this is doing this mod. It is cheap and easy. Links: https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...le+body+bypass OIL CATCH CAN The oil catch can is a mod that is cheap and has a DIY. It is usefull because the 8 can build up sludge from burning oil and such. It can build up in your intake, not only can that reduce your milage, but it can build up in your engine as well. Link: https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=100635.html FANSWITCH DIY This mod changes the setting on your cooling fans and thereby can lower temps uner your hood faster than under normal operating conditions. As we all know, the rotory engine produces more heat than piston engines, so any cooling mod is rather important. Imagine driving your 8 on errands all day... heat soak much? After a long hot day in Florida, even a piston engine is a little sluggish. So being able to lower your engine temps by up to 30 degrees in some cases is very useful. Link: https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=fan This may be the same thing but still another link that will explain it more. MAZSPORT COOLING MOD https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=cooler As far as the ac and rad screens, anyone here got a way to make these for 10 bucks? i would suggest going to home depot and and finding screens. Shouldnt be to hard. Thanks for everyone messaging and writing in, please keep it up. Blake |
good idea Silver
Here is the fan switch DIY https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=fan and the Mazsport cooling mod - which is cheap-ish & easy to DIY https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=cooler |
Instead of premixing you can use Lube Control FP60. It improves gasoline combustion, reduces carbon buildup, increases MPG and cleans injectors/fuel system. A lot easier than premixing IMHO.
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Reliable......
Not reliability tips would be complete without the protection screen for the A/C and rad.
The radiator and a/c condensor are virtually unprotected from rocks. Anything smaller than about 3" can smash into the cooolers, which are only thin aluminum. A rad puncture is bad news, and an a/c hole will be big bucks. You can put mesh over the large bumper holes, or add wire screens in front of the fins. S |
This talk of FP60 only started after Jax_RX8 joined and now it seems to be talked about as the greatest fuel additive out there. He also advocates BG Syncroshift II, but that doesn't seem to have caught on much. I'll continue to use my stock of Idemitsu premix while you guys run FP60. Keep me updated on the results though.
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I would say Premix is the best thing you can use to protect your engine, hey its not expensive either.
Fuel injector cleaner I would say use it maybe every few K miles or so should be good enough. I just had my first Fuel Injector cleaner today, well, Im not sure but it seems that after some hard driving with the injector cleaner, it seems to be even smoother |
Originally Posted by LionZoo
This talk of FP60 only started after Jax_RX8 joined and now it seems to be talked about as the greatest fuel additive out there. He also advocates BG Syncroshift II, but that doesn't seem to have caught on much. I'll continue to use my stock of Idemitsu premix while you guys run FP60. Keep me updated on the results though.
As for Idemitsu Premix, I think it is also a great product. I intend to use this with a Sohn OMP adapter (ordering soon) as I think this will definitely help lubricate the engine seals better (than standard engine oil feed) with less carbon. I will continue to use FP60 as the regular fuel additive as well for all the benefits it provides. I think this combination will create a great lubrication and carbon fighting tandem for a long lasting engine. For the purpose of this thread, I think the Richard Sohn OMP Adapter mod should be added as a reliability mod. Here is a link to a DIY to perform the mod and another for obtaining the adapter for those interested: http://www.turborenesis.com/ompadapter.html http://rotaryaviation.com/oil_inject...p_adaptors.htm |
Not saying FP60 doesn't work, but since I currently have a stock of Idemitsu not to mention the list of stuff I want to buy for my car is long, I'm going to hold off on getting it until people start reporting results.
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Fp60.....
You "just add it to the gas tank", so how is it easier than pre-mix?
S |
care to expand on this. we would use premix for lubrication instead of oil? So now what happens with everything oil related? I can see how premix could be used but i also see that premix is premix for a reason. If you could tell us the long term effects of this. How much is it and where to buy i also helpful. but hey if it works and it means less carbon build up im all for it. a 1.3 displacment can do with as little buildup as possible. I wonder why its not a 2.0 lt. wouldnt that be nice?
Edit: (wow just posted this and somone already asked what the longterm results were, we are sharp today) |
Pre......
Nobody is using premix INSTEAD of oil, I don't want to imply that. You still need oil in the sump.....
The oil added to the fuel just lubes the parts that the engine oil can't reach. S |
Cheap insurance......
Back to the cheap reliability mods -
Anti-seize on the plugs, and wheel studs. I'm pretty sure that all Mazda techs now routinely put the antiseize compound on the plugs, but if you check them at home, make sure to add a dab of it when you rethread them. Been there, very expensive T-shirt aquired..... The wheel studs need a dab too, in order for them to come off clean next season, don't get any on the V shaped seat of the nut, where it meets the wheel, just the threads. Since you got the wheels off, now is a good time to back out the big bolts that hold the calipers in place - a dab of anti-sieze on the threads will make the 50k brake job quick and easy instead of a knucklebusting nightmare. ...Oh, and oil cooler screens too!! S |
Originally Posted by StealthTL
Nobody is using premix INSTEAD of oil, I don't want to imply that. You still need oil in the sump.....
The oil added to the fuel just lubes the parts that the engine oil can't reach. S |
Originally Posted by mikeschaefer
Well technically if you use the OMP adapter and put premix in the tank it's connected to, then you're using the premix instead of [crankcase] oil :) I think that's what he meant.
This is my recipe for a long lasting, clean running engine. Other's may work as well, but IMHO from all that I have read on this forum and others, this is my plan. |
Originally Posted by StealthTL
Since you got the wheels off, now is a good time to back out the big bolts that hold the calipers in place - a dab of anti-sieze on the threads will make the 50k brake job quick and easy instead of a knucklebusting nightmare.
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Originally Posted by Jax_RX8
Adding FP60 into the gas (in addition to the mod), provides some additional lubrication benefits, but with the additional benefit of superb cleaning which is just as important to prevent carbon buildup.
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Please explain about FP60. What is it and where do I buy it? I am new to rotory motors, and have much to learn. :Eyecrazy:
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I also want to change all my fluids to Royal purple. I know how much I need for the engine, how much do I need ( and what kind ) for the auto trans, and the differental? Please help with info.
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Originally Posted by DexterRX8
I also want to change all my fluids to Royal purple. I know how much I need for the engine, how much do I need ( and what kind ) for the auto trans, and the differental? Please help with info.
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Originally Posted by DexterRX8
I also want to change all my fluids to Royal purple. I know how much I need for the engine, how much do I need ( and what kind ) for the auto trans, and the differental? Please help with info.
and yes it a day & night ..... |
Originally Posted by DexterRX8
Please explain about FP60. What is it and where do I buy it? I am new to rotory motors, and have much to learn. :Eyecrazy:
To keep the carbon cleaned out, you need to exercise the engine (run to redline) every once and a while and run a good cleaner in the fuel. BG44k or Techron is good for one-time clean-ups, but Lube Control FP60 is a cleaner with many benefits that is added to every tank and is bought by the gallon (add 2-3 oz per tank). Here is a link for their website and a link to BITOG where this product is discussed (search for Terry Dyson of Dyson's Analysis comments as he has tested many times). http://www.lubecontrol.com/ http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...rue#Post300502 |
^good read...but the second post is mostly abotu diesel trucks..and fleet vehicles (that are diesel). they mention using it in there cars every now and again...
i think i shall have to get a gallon and see for myself. |
um no...
Originally Posted by dsmdriver
If you do this, adjust the torque you use on them, since anti-sieze leads you to over-torquing stuff because it lubricates the threads.
Torque is torque lubrication does not affect the amount, it just lets you get there with less resistance. I assume you are using a torque wrench. |
now lets go into where to buy Idemitsu premix and fp60
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Originally Posted by army_rx8
^good read...but the second post is mostly abotu diesel trucks..and fleet vehicles (that are diesel). they mention using it in there cars every now and again...
i think i shall have to get a gallon and see for myself. I think you will be pleased, but let us know your impressions after you use it a bit. |
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