RP high flow cat clogged
#1
Unbalanced & Unmedicated
Thread Starter
RP high flow cat clogged
I have had the high flow cat in my car for about a year, maybe 6,000 miles.
Last month during a dyno day, the charts showed a definate loss of power at top end. Consultation with resident experts on the forum suggested I check the intake, coils, and the cat.
I don't know why I decided to check the cat first since it is the most labor intensive but driving past the muffler shop, I stopped. On the rack, the thing was smoking hot and sure enough, once removed, there was NO daylight visible through it. Anyway, I opted to buy a MetalCat, fully stainless steel model.
Butt dyno says that did the trick, but tonight I'm gonna tear down the RB intake and check screens, clean the MAF, and make sure nothing got sucked up into the CAI. Will have to get some guidance on removing the coils for inspection. Any tips from those who have done this?
Last month during a dyno day, the charts showed a definate loss of power at top end. Consultation with resident experts on the forum suggested I check the intake, coils, and the cat.
I don't know why I decided to check the cat first since it is the most labor intensive but driving past the muffler shop, I stopped. On the rack, the thing was smoking hot and sure enough, once removed, there was NO daylight visible through it. Anyway, I opted to buy a MetalCat, fully stainless steel model.
Butt dyno says that did the trick, but tonight I'm gonna tear down the RB intake and check screens, clean the MAF, and make sure nothing got sucked up into the CAI. Will have to get some guidance on removing the coils for inspection. Any tips from those who have done this?
#2
Metatron
iTrader: (1)
Maf cleaning....
Two screws from the top, then disconnect the wiring.
You will see a black plastic frame holding a brown "tear-drop", this is the temp sensor, give it a spray with brake cleaner/contact cleaner, whatever. Don't touch it, don't get body oil on it.
The plastic fin creates a low pressure area behind it, and causes a small percentage of the total flow to go up and over the heated MAF wires, this flow tells the computer what the speed and mass of the rest of the air is.
The flow sensor wires are up inside the black housing, a good blast of cleaner will do the job, NO Q-TIPS! Hard to touch, but still not completely foolproof !
S
You will see a black plastic frame holding a brown "tear-drop", this is the temp sensor, give it a spray with brake cleaner/contact cleaner, whatever. Don't touch it, don't get body oil on it.
The plastic fin creates a low pressure area behind it, and causes a small percentage of the total flow to go up and over the heated MAF wires, this flow tells the computer what the speed and mass of the rest of the air is.
The flow sensor wires are up inside the black housing, a good blast of cleaner will do the job, NO Q-TIPS! Hard to touch, but still not completely foolproof !
S
#4
Registered
iTrader: (3)
WHy no q tips on maf cleaning? I understand not rubbing them hard or anything like that but a slight brush I thought would be ok.? Also be careful about what you clean it with--some of the newer brake cleaning products are not like the ones that dry instantly etc. On the coils removed them and inspect the back of the coil itself(where it is touching the mounting plate) any discoloration is not normal. If it is blistered it is shot but that would be very apparrent in how the car runs. DO a search on how to remove the coils.
Plugs also can cause a big top end drop. WOuld you believe 8-12 hp? Think about them also.
Good luck man.
Olddragger
Plugs also can cause a big top end drop. WOuld you believe 8-12 hp? Think about them also.
Good luck man.
Olddragger
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