yiksing

Please post your DIY pictures if possible coz this thing is high on many's mod list. I have a question, would a plastic tank for nitromethane RC last with 2 stroke oil?

FoxyRoxy

Can the adapter be ordered on-line? I went to the Turbogenessis site, but couldn't find an order form...

Jax_RX8

You can communicate with him via this e-mail, but he only takes personal checks and/or a certified check now (at least that is what he just told me Monday) - so in the end you are going to have to mail a check with your purchase request

Jax_RX8

Here it is again (thanks again to GTAW)

http://www.turborenesis.com/ompadapter.html

The only confusion I had was on the tank and how to tap the tank (whatever tank you decide upon). I went to Lowes, in the plumbing section, and got a 1/4 barb fitting (for the hose side) and a 1/4 inch male threaded on the opposite side (for the tank side).

I also got a 1/4 npt male pipe tap to thread the tank hole (after drilling starter hole) for the threaded side of the connector.

Must be a HDPE 2 (High Density Polyethylene) or better. If your tank would hold nitromethane, it should hold two stroke oil.

vcpatel

Quick question [i searched]: will the OMP adapter void my warranty? It scares me thinking about what dealers would say if they saw one of these in an engine bay.

supergoat

I'm going to say that yes it will. Without the OMP your car will die, if you modify it and your engine dies...guess what they are going to say?

I'll leave mine as-is and just premix if I want the extra insurance.

Jax_RX8

So, I got the 32 oz container that I ordered and I cannot find a good location to mount it. While there is some room in front of the washer tank, the electrical connection and the wash pump get in the way of it resting far enough down for me to comfortable. If I put it there, it would sit on the washer wires/pump and over time would likely break off the wires.

The engine bay is so tightly packed that I cannot find a place that I like, so I am going back to my original plan of using the washer tank. This means I will have to go back to smaller connector so I can connect into the bottom round part of that tank (too much of a radius to have a large connector). I will use a 1/4 barb fitting on one side with a couple of adapters to get to a 1/8 threaded (inside hole size, outside is about 1/4) connector on the other side.

While I preferred not to use the washer tank, I do like that the washer tank is very well secured, larger capacity, and walls of it are thicker than the other tank so the connection should be more secure as well.

Still waiting on the Sohn Adapter to arrive - hopefully next week so I can get it on.

elf

The 16 oz version of your bottle should fit next to the washer tank then? I also noticed that there's a gap behind the washer tank about the same thickness of a standard 1 quart oil bottle ... now if I can find a "flat" clear/translucent 1 quart container the same thickness ...

BTW, thanks for the ordering info.

Jax_RX8

If you mean between the washer tank and the fender, it might depending on the shape, but 16 oz is getting kind of small and would need checked often.

There is a pretty significant gap behind the tank that could just about hold another small tank, but it would have to be the right shape exactly with a refill hole on the side for access - I have not seen anything yet that would work there.

Jax_RX8

I got my Adpater and Idemitsu Premix delivered Yesterday. I will install this weekend and let everyone know how it goes.

On the warranty issue - I think this mod will provide better protection for the engine than the stock setup, reducing the likelihood of a warranty related engine issue. But if something did go wrong with the engine and you are unsure of how your dealer would react, you can always uninstall the adapter before taking it in.

Jax_RX8

So, this was interesting. I have now successfully got the Adapter installed and pulling Idemitsu Premix from the old washer tank. This took a little longer than I thought it would, mostly due to my learning and one screw-up I had to fix.

Here is a summary:

- I had already removed, cleaned, tapped, and installed the barb fitting and hose to the washer tank and re-installed. This was quite easy and I highly recommend this solution for the tank. I could not find another one I was comfortable with.

- Next, idiot me, took 3 hours getting the Battery and case/base out as I did not realize that the sides unit comes off separately to allow access to the bolts to remove the base. I won't forget that one anytime soon. Took 10 minutes the second time!

- Next was removing the coolant hose with some partial coolant draining. This was quite easy, just took a little while for it all to drain and clean up.

- Then I had to remove the OMP from the engine block. Remember to remove the two electrical connections first. I never thought I was going to able to do this until I figured out how to get to the 3 bolts - the top front bolt is tight, but you get to it from the top with a short extension and a flexible joint. The back two bolts are much easier to access from the bottom (took awhile to figure that one out). So, I jacked up the car and actually reached them by using a 3" extension with a flexible, and a 12" extension. This allows you to reach from inside fender (tire on) and reach both bolts. The top back one is a reach to get to, but you can get to it with one hand guiding through the bottom frame gap and the other working the wrench in the wheel well.

- Once the OMP is off, I moved the lines over to the other side of the coolant pipe. This is tougher than you might think as these lines, although clear plastic, are very stiff and I was scared of breaking them. But I eventually got them over. BTW, this is the time to wrap them to protect them from the coolant hose clips - I used a piece of small coolant hose wrap I took off when I put on the Mazsport mod and electrical taped. I also turned all the coolant hose clip grabs away from these lines.

- I then put the coolant hose back on and secured, working around the OMP lines.

- Now is the really hard part, mating the Adapter to the OMP, getting the gasket on, and getting this against the engine block straight. If you do this wrong (like I did the first time) you will tear up the gasket and it WILL leak. I had to get a new gasket sent to me from Richard Sohn to finish - YOU MAY WANT TO ORDER AN EXTRA in the first place.

Anyways, the trick here is the get the Adapter and the OMP together with the "keys" aligned properly (use the original OMP seal between the OMP and the Adapter). Then put on the Adapter gasket on and put the bottom, back bolt through the assembly to help hold all 3 pieces together and to help hold the gasket in place (with the gasket also being held by the round center section on the adapter). Then from underneath, start the back bottom bolt slightly, get up on top and snug the whole assembly to the block (making sure to align the key, it will not snug if you do not). ASSURE THE GASKET IS STRAIGHT on the bolt holes and around the key area as you snug it up to the block. Then snug the one back bottom bolt, start the other 2 bolts, snug up all 3 bolts good , then tighten all 3.

Be patient with this - this took me several attempts to get this straight and right (the second go around). The first time I got impatient and messed up the gasket because it was not straight and I forced a bolt through the gasket, The second time went easier, but I took my time and made sure it was right on before I did the last 2 bolts and tightened up.

- Add oil to the tank and flow oil through the line the get the air out. attach and tighten down with hose connector.

- From here, it is just putting everything else back, which went real easy.

This tried my patience a lot, mostly due to my lack of knowledge under the hood and the tight working area, but I learned a lot and got it completed. I am very happy with the adapter and can already see the Idemitsu going through the OMP lines (different color - light yellow) and about to reach the engine.

I am very pleased with the results and glad I got it. Next up - Exhaust.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Good writeup. I have an adapter sitting in my garage....am waiting until I get the engine issues resolved with the recall...and I hope to install soon.

Boris and Natasha

excellent, will wait to hear how it works for ya.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

This would be a great long term trial - I hope you do lots of miles Jax so you can soon give some feedback on the long term advantages of this.

Jax_RX8

While it has only been a few hundred miles since I have added, It seems that the soot on the exhaust tips is much, much less (I cleaned after installing the OMP Adapter on purpose to check).

I think this is due to the Idemitsu burning cleaner than engine oil and also because I do run FP60 in the gas as well (cleaner, lubricant, and contributes to more complete combustion).

I will keep monitoring and let everyone know how things look longer term.

CURED RX8

Hey Jax!

Haven't heard from you for awhile on this mod. How is it working?

Although I believe this could be a GREAT mod because of it's burning cycle-2 rather than motor oil that has already been cycling through the engine and crudding up; My concern with this mod/Adapter is that if you are running the stock flow settings through the OMP, how do you know that the amount of cylce-2 oil supplied to the engine should be the same as the amount of motor oil you were running through the engine? Are the lubrcating/combustability properties of the two types of oils that similiar? Because even with the Adjuster, you could actually control the amount of flow, but how do you figure what that correct amount should be? Short/long term effects of the amount being wrong because it is a different oil and is untested would be my concern. Unless, like I said, they are that similiar?? I hope that's the answer!!

Also with premixing...I still see the benefit of premixing with this mod because it will lubricate parts the OMP system doesn't. (I know this isn't exactly what you are doing), but wouldn't folks want to run the same cycle-2 in the premix that you are running through the OMP? Then there wouldn't be any mixing of oils at combustion. Just seems it would be the best setup if this all works.

Then, of course, Synthetic motor oil would be "absolutely" OK, because none is getting injected into the engine. Kill that HUGE Thread. WooHoo!!

This just seems like this is something Mazda could have developed because of the obvious benefits; Except for the also obvious concern of the ordinary car owner letting the resevoir run dry because they never checked it! Although an indicator light and sensor in the resevoir may work?

There's something good here me thinks!!

mikeschaefer

They could put a level sensor in there and add a gauge to the dash. I'd be fine with adding it whenever necessary. I think it'd be more idiot proof than having to check the dipstick every other fill-up or so. This way you'd know exactly how much you have left. Heck even put a big red warning light when it gets low! Sounds like something someone could make a lot of money off of if they produced it.

CURED RX8

Issues:

Container material, size and shape and where to mount it. (I'd like to keep my windshield fluid)

The oil would be cooler when injected because it's in a separate container and not the engine. Is that better or worse?

Would it be Ok just sitting in a container in the engine compartment? (Temps, time for it to be used, etc.)

If you just put engine oil in a side resevoir it would at least be more clean and an improvement. But I kind of assume the stock OMP flow settings using cycle-2 would be ok??? Anybody?

Boris and Natasha

Yes the OMP calls for what the engine needs using 2 cycle oil is fine in that respect, at least it's made to be burned, many rx7 owners have gone this route. "even RG" The variable version is more for ppl that want to FI their engines or go different routes like in planes or boats.

CURED RX8

Why would this mod be just more geared toward FI?

If you ran 'clean' reg. oil or cycle-2 oil instead of 'used' oil through, I think that would be a benefit to any engine (especially longterm). The oil that is pumped through the OMP is more for lubrication than performance. I know the two kinda go hand in hand, but what I mean is that nobody is gonna do this mod for the X amount, if any, of HP it will give. It's for a better/cleaner running engine, which is still performance based to an X degree, but also maintenance & care based.

I think any setup would benefit to some degree from this mod. It would come down to cost vs. benefit. A very subjective topic of any mod. And a personal preference.

I just don't think we should give the impression that this is only for FI.

Boris and Natasha

sry my mistake read jax second post at the start of this thread, there are 2 models of this adaptor available. the standard one is perfect for the rx8, the second is for use with engines without computer control or needing more oil flow which is adjustable, that is what I was refering too.

Jax_RX8

1. Working great - love this mod.

2. 2 cycle oil lubricates better for this use because it just has to focus on one-time lubrication needs and does not have to worry about lasting a long time, so the additive package is built for that purpose. I use Idemitsu Rotary Premix, which is even more specifically designed lubricate rotary engines/seals. No worry's here.

3. Using the Adjuster - This is a add-on piece to the standard Adapter. If you add this, you are manually controlling the fixed flow rate. I am not using this as I think it is overkill for a NA motor. FI motors could use and would just have to experiment a little (setting at the middle setting) and monitoring usage to get it where they are comfortable.

4. Premixing - personal choice to continue to supplement. May get to "hard to reach" places easier, but this is just speculation by many. Could use adjuster to add more oil instead of Premixing, just a convenience factor. I personally use Lube Control FP60 as it add some more lubrication (kinda like premixing), but I use it more for the excellent cleaning to further reduce any exhaust port clogging.

5. Does make Synthetic oil debate a moot point.

6. Like RotaryGod said before, if you are under your hood so little that the tank that lasts 1000-3000 miles could run dry, you need a different car.

Jax_RX8

Not 2 models, just one Adapter.

You can buy the Adjuster separately if you want to manually control the OMP flow rate (controlling base rate and automatically increasing by RPM) instead of using the computer controller

Boris and Natasha

Gaaaaah Another mistake