Killawatts

Finally got the engine out, however the passenger side motor mount nut absolutely refused to come off. I tried penetrating oil, I tried heat, it would not budge. After so many attempts the nut rounded off, so I cut it off, and unfortunately I wish I would have just left it alone, taken off the bracket, and just accepted that the BHR motor mounts weren't getting installed. The stud itself became a casualty from cutting off the nut, so it's now a smooth surface.

I had the idea of drilling out the stud (huge pain in the *** btw), making my own stud, installing it in the hole, and welding it in place. However, I've not been successful welding it in place, due to the fact I'm a shitty welder and have never done it before. Every single time I end up ruining the stud and not even coming close to welding it in place, just ruined threads and the stud pulls right out of the hole.

So, I'm looking for alternatives, or an idea as to what I'm doing wrong. This is really hindering progress.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

there won’t be any way to effectively repair it except by welding; even if you have to hire someone skilled with a mobile rig to come do it, or take it t a collision/frame shop, or replace the subframe …

otherwise going forward would just give you the same addvice I posted on here over many years; buy a tube or can of high temp nickel-based anti-seize and use it on every threaded connection when you can will help tonavoid this type of situation. Honestly I’ve had some close calls on the other side as well with the bolt. Had to helicoil one of those, and have run a threading die over the stud side more than once. It’s easy to over-torque them and gall the threads there in addition to corrosion issues. Kind of learned the hard way that they only need to be snug enough to not vibrate loose and are not so highly stressed as to not needing to be torqued overly tight.

well hope you can get it fixed ok.

I have the same problem back in the trunk with one of the studs for the upper rear shock tower mount brace; snapped one of those studs off. I can get to the back side of it though which helps a lot.
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Killawatts

I may just have to swallow my pride and hire someone to do it, I didn't know mobile welders were even a thing, but what do you know, someone in town does it.

Irritating, considering it's a simple weld, and really shouldn't be this difficult. But I'm tired of ruining the "studs" ,which are bolts I have to cut to studs, then taper one end so it will fit in the hole, about 20 minutes of work only to ruin it in about 5 seconds because the weld is going all over the place. I think there's more to welding than it may seem at first, and I don't have the luxury of time at the moment to experiment and find out what's going on.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Most common welding problem is trying to weld dirt... 😀 clean it really well and then clean it again and it will likely weld easier.

Trying to MIG it? Or stick? Or TIG?

Killawatts

It looks pretty clean in there. It's a stick welder, only one I could find that would run off of 120V, don't have 240V in my garage.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

it will be better to have someone TIG weld it. Alternatively you could drill it out and have a round weld nut welded in and then either put a stud in that or just use a bolt as well.

Killawatts

The problem is it's really difficult to get all the way through on that side of the sub frame, it's hollow and the unibody is in the way so it's hard to get straight on it, would take a 90 degree drill to do so, which I don't have. Either that or drop the sub frame, which I'd rather not do, since I already have a ton of work that still needs to be done.

I'm sure an actual welder will handle it just fine.