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Renesis OIL PRESSURE Discussion with Dealer Tech

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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 03:06 PM
  #1001  
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Originally Posted by Flashwing
Ok, I apologize as it had appeared that conclusions had already been made.
Yes they have been made, that this mod definitely increases your Oil Pressure in S1' RX-8's...
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 03:49 PM
  #1002  
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as far as i am concerned ---no apologies needed Flash---welcome all discussion. Mazmart as a company is much more through toward a product before it is released than I will ever be. Once you buy a product from them you can be assured that all aspects of that product has been fully researched and it is safe to use.
I have probably put pressure (no pun intended) on Paul by posting my findings this soon. If I did I hope he will --in time forgive me.

The total evaluation is not complete, but the findings so far sure look good to me.
Hurry up 9 K!!!
OD
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 06:32 PM
  #1003  
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With the oil pan off, is there another mod that should be done at the same time? (like increasing baffles in the pan?)

OD, when you say this is the #1 mod, is that above anything for the engine when used at the track? sohn, coils, fuel pump, water pump, thermostat, radiator? I do only about 2 weekends a year, but the tracks have high speed straights and corners (Road America and Brainerd - two 100mph+ corners)
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 07:53 PM
  #1004  
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The tracks that I tend to have temp problems are the lower speed twisty ones...the high speed fast ones will allow better airflow and better cooling
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 08:37 PM
  #1005  
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true that Dan.
Yes i do mean this would be the very 1st mod I would do to an RX8, but it would be even better to do the cooling mods at the same time.
Actually If you live in a climate that sees ambient temps above 90F -- I would save up to do both, this and coolant mods--- at the same time.

Ash had some news about the difference between some older model oil pan baffles and the newer models.
OD
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 08:50 PM
  #1006  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
as far as i am concerned ---no apologies needed Flash---welcome all discussion. Mazmart as a company is much more through toward a product before it is released than I will ever be. Once you buy a product from them you can be assured that all aspects of that product has been fully researched and it is safe to use.
I have probably put pressure (no pun intended) on Paul by posting my findings this soon. If I did I hope he will --in time forgive me.

The total evaluation is not complete, but the findings so far sure look good to me.
Hurry up 9 K!!!
OD
Hopefully I can get it in before Christmas. I'll be at my fathers for Christmas and have access to a real shop so I should knock it out quick. I'll also be installing a catch can, grounding kit, and some other goodies
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 09:28 PM
  #1007  
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Originally Posted by dannobre
The tracks that I tend to have temp problems are the lower speed twisty ones...the high speed fast ones will allow better airflow and better cooling
Good point relative to the cooling system - doubly good because it is always cold at Brainerd when i go there (like high 30s when we start and low 70s in the afternoon).

I am thinking about the oil pressure change more for oil supply or lubrication. i will be winding it out, pulling in the 100+ range trying to continue to accelerate. For example 4th gear reaching up to 115 takes longer than reaching redline in 3rd because of the aerodynamic drag. This is approaching 2-3 corners at each track.

Last edited by ganseg; Dec 17, 2009 at 09:30 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 09:30 PM
  #1008  
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I wish I had done the cooler and this mod in June. But it should start getting hot again in March .
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 04:43 AM
  #1009  
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OD, do you have comparison times of your oil coming up to full temperature? My current commute, unlike the one I had last year, is a short hop to the train station, an 8-10 minute trip. With the cold temperatures (it's 13F/-10.556C out right now) I'd been looking for the renesis equivalent of the 190F thermostat that was optional for the RX-7, for use during Winter in order to try to get the oil temperatures up within that short time (apparently such a thermostat just doesn't exist). I am concerned that the cold oil may be forcing the bypass open in the oil filter, allowing all kinds of unfiltered crud through my engine.

I realise this is tangential to the concerns this kit was developed to address; but I am hoping that it might also address this concern as a happy side effect.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 08:58 AM
  #1010  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
doesnt take long--becareful with the oil pan bolts.

I am wondering also how/or if your oil temps will be affected. Since you have upgraded your cooler and cooler thermostat--it will be interesting..
His (9krpmrx8) oil pressure and flow went higher like yours. The differences that he got it by the single cooler mod, instead of regulators mod with original coolers (like you).
So it partly verifies that the more flow the more oil temp you get. Nice!

Maybe the more oil spray to the rotor's inner wall increases the oil temp so much.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 09:29 AM
  #1011  
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ayrton---i am cautiously thinking that--wish i could prove that--but i dont even know a way in which that could be done outside a real lab.

Short drives are a killer alright longpath --those temps and that short of a drive a block heater may help and i would block off both oil coolers! Just a thin sheet of plastic or plywood painted black would do that?

Olddragger
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 09:29 AM
  #1012  
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Yes getting the oil temp up in this car when it is cold is difficult. Even with my improvement over the factory system I still think it takes too long. When I bought the hoses they had a type of sleeve you could buy to insulate and protect the hose. I wish I had bought that stuff.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 09:42 AM
  #1013  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
ayrton---i am cautiously thinking that--wish i could prove that--but i dont even know a way in which that could be done outside a real lab.

Short drives are a killer alright longpath --those temps and that short of a drive a block heater may help and i would block off both oil coolers! Just a thin sheet of plastic or plywood painted black would do that?

Olddragger
OD, one more thought got on my mind. You said that your oil gets warm faster after startup with this higher pressure. Maybe your pressure is so high that the e-shaft pellet's bypass drill can't drain so much oil (decreasing the pressure in the e-shaft), that pressure decreasing is needed to avoid the oil spray on the rotor's back under 60 Celsius.

So the "rotors" are warming the oil earlier and quicker, than in the original S1 system.

Last edited by ayrton012; Dec 18, 2009 at 10:02 AM. Reason: earlier and quicker
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 10:24 AM
  #1014  
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Originally Posted by ayrton012
OD, one more thought got on my mind. You said that your oil gets warm faster after startup with this higher pressure. Maybe your pressure is so high that the e-shaft pellet's bypass drill can't drain so much oil (decreasing the pressure in the e-shaft), that pressure decreasing is needed to avoid the oil spray on the rotor's back under 60 Celsius.

So the "rotors" are warming the oil earlier and quicker, than in the original S1 system.

OD is running a Mazmart RE-medy built engine. All of our engines have modded front thermo pellets. It will never fail and bypass. This causes the opposite reaction in that it could cause oil temps to take a little longer to warm.

Paul.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 11:17 AM
  #1015  
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I wish my rebuild was RE-medy But next time it will be!!
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 09:58 PM
  #1016  
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Keep in mind too that the E-Shaft Thermal Pellets and Springs are all the same for ALL series RX-7's and RX-8's by Mazda Part Number...if your engine has not been Pellet Modded...that is.., so the standard FD RX-7 and S2 RX-8 with the "higher" Oil Pressure should not ( I hope) have an Oil Temp issue because of the higher OP or flow.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 04:25 PM
  #1017  
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I'm curious as to what this mod would do with mere 5W20, but it's sounding very beneficial for people who are running over 30-weight oil.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 04:51 PM
  #1018  
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It should be MORE beneficial for 5-20....

I question as to how much it's needed with a 0-40, 5-40 or 20-50.......
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 09:37 PM
  #1019  
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Originally Posted by dannobre
It should be MORE beneficial for 5-20....

I question as to how much it's needed with a 0-40, 5-40 or 20-50.......

This mod may not substantially increase the oil pressure of W20 oil like it has for heavier oils.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 10:46 PM
  #1020  
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Originally Posted by dannobre
It should be MORE beneficial for 5-20....

I question as to how much it's needed with a 0-40, 5-40 or 20-50.......
Agreed about the 5w-20 comment, but the guys running 15w-40 or 20w-50 will probably like this as well since it heats up the oil quicker, which seems pretty important if you run heavy oil.
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 08:01 AM
  #1021  
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everyone please remember that the heavier viscosity oil is used for a purpose. increased oil flow did not change that!
od
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 09:51 AM
  #1022  
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Originally Posted by madcows
I'm curious as to what this mod would do with mere 5W20, but it's sounding very beneficial for people who are running over 30-weight oil.
As mentioned you would see pressure increases but if you were to see 120 psi of pressure it would be much later in the RPM band.
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 11:05 AM
  #1023  
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Originally Posted by Mazmart
OD is running a Mazmart RE-medy built engine. All of our engines have modded front thermo pellets. It will never fail and bypass. This causes the opposite reaction in that it could cause oil temps to take a little longer to warm.

Paul.
So, the engine I purchased is modded?
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 11:13 AM
  #1024  
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I believe all of Rick E's rebuilt renasis engines have certain mods to it. That is one of the reasons Mazmarts engine's have such a good reputation.
olddragger
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 04:43 AM
  #1025  
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Originally Posted by Mazmart
OD is running a Mazmart RE-medy built engine. All of our engines have modded front thermo pellets. It will never fail and bypass. This causes the opposite reaction in that it could cause oil temps to take a little longer to warm.

Paul.
Thanks, but doesn't the rotor's get hot earlier then the oil? So the oil which are draining back to the pan from the hot rotor's inside is warming quicker. Is it false?
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