Olddragger,

I've got a gift for you (Not glasses, not bi-focals, not spectacles of any type).

It's not free but it's still a gift of sorts.

Paul.

 

Paul, i'm blind as well.
No gifts for me?

 

Do you think I can leave out my brother from Roma? PM me and we'll make it happen.

Paul.

 

I will pm you as soon as they give me my new credit card

 

Are yall saying I cant see? LoL --probably right--some advantages--this way i cant tell what i look like in the mornings
Ok --all kidding aside it still looks like it is a dead end branch that is feed by the line that continues onward to the omp and there it dead ends?. Am I hallucinating? Again?
Since the omp is the only outlet for this oil line --that is not good? We know that the omp flows slow---very slow; and flow is important to a main bearing like this? I bet the oil is a little hotter also? Now am i missing something here? Does the front bearing have a wheep hole to help? Getting oil to the bearing is one thing--getting flow of continious fresh oil is another.

Paul --cant wait until I get my tinkering little hands on that!. Just in time for me to send my first oil analysis. Perfect.
I will be supplying data from my old setup --starting today and then of course the new. Anyone need install pics?
MrE has his initials on it!!
olddragger

 

Yes it goes into the OMP but then is distributed through the clear plastic tubes to the oil injectors to be injected into the combustion chamber. But I guess it does dead end in a way and I was thinking the same thing about the oil temp at that point.

 

I thought you were referring to the upward deadend to a banjo bolt initially. The passages cannot be properly seen in this diagram although it's good. It's not so simple at the metering pump as that I believe.

Paul.

 

Well, doesn't the oil from the bearing just drain back to the pan like oil to all the other bearings?

 

that is want i am wondering---of course it has to drain-- and gets squeezed out --but how much flow is present there? obviously the film strength is not protecting the bearing there--but is it because it is getting to hot, not enough flow and/or of course too low viscosity?
It seems to me that would be a very stagnant flow area? Flow of oil is also used to cool the area being lubricated?
That could be better?
OD.

 

Well, at least we know the problems with this engine have to be addressed as a system. the single solution method is worthless.

 

Well, if it dead-ended right there, that would actually be ideal, as that way the pressure in the lines that feed to the bearing (and thus, it's ability to flow oil to the location) would be higher, rather than lower. The flow *through* the lines isn't what we want - we want flow through the bearings. (of course, what flows through the bearings has to flow through the lines first).

What I'm trying to say is that if large amounts of oil were able to flow past the bearing feed line and into the turbo and omp (as in the diagram), then that would lower overall oil pressure inside the engine, and decrease the flow to the bearings.


Out of curiosity, does anyone know if the renesis has that thread for the banjo bolt like in the diagram? That would be a pretty cool spot to measure OP.

 

Which banjo bolt? The one near the oil filter?

 

Easy...just drill and tap the bolt...mines been like that for 3 ears....
Just make sure you don't impair the flow....

 

Don't be tired Ash, we are closing to the solution!


There are no differences in parts (except the front valve spring and coolers) so let me see the differences in reference oil pressure:

The FB and FC pressure has to be 65-79,7 PSI at 3000 rpm, until the S1 Renesis has only 50 PSI at 3000 rpm. Same pump, same rear regulator, different front regulator spring and oil cooling system. Think about it!

 

I don't need to "Think About" anything mate...it's what I have been "Fecking " saying and posting in these 30 pages...your the one who should "Think" about it.

You keep posting **** we have already put up...

 

Of course, I forgot about that you said the front regulator datas (that I found on two official Mazda sites) are wrong too!
If I did not attached these...., and the rear regulator test-datas, we stuck at that the front regulator is only for emergency protection....but no matter...time will tell how stupid I'am.

 

Mate, I really don't know what you are on about??..

I posted the Part Number info WAY back ( this does not lie) on the front valve was Way back, and you keep bringing up stuff that was talked about WAY back in this thread, an no one is saying you are stupid??

You, we are just going over the same stuff, every other thread page...

END..

 

..I wrote : "...you said the front regulator datas (that I found on two official Mazda sites) are wrong too!" ...I meant pressure datas, not parts number. It is true.

Every pages of this 32 contains minimum 1 new information. I think it is not bad average.

 

The printed data may be right, the questions is: how can we make this friggin regulators work as they should since nobody sees pressures above the 72psi mark with an unmodified oil cooling system?

Cheers!

 

Easily with shims, but before doing this I want to check the front regulator factory pressure datas by my own test.

 

Yep, i knew the answer... it was just for making this small argument end

 

Hey

Im from south africa and i have the rx8 hi spec .

I have been told to use the 15w40 oil in my ride , this however conflicts with what you have posted .

Do you advise to keep using the 15w40 oil in my rx8 ?

 

what's your climate like?

 

well stay in Cape Town south africa , usually hot here plus/minus 30 degrees Celsius

 

+30°c AND -30°c or you mean around 30°c?
If the temperature is around the 30°c mark you can use a 10w40 oil as well without problem i think. That's what i use even in a slightly colder climate.