Is redline the 8 good for it or bad?
02-10-2008, 11:32 AM
#51
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if the stored CEL is the SSV problem, i had driven hard the next day around 8krpm twice for about 5 secs each time. BUT CEL didnt show up that time. i cant drive hard these days, the road is pretty crappy, it has a lot snow.....bad time for me
02-11-2008, 09:27 PM
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i went to dealer today and was told that the ssv stuck open is caused by a big amount of carbon built up on the intake manifold. like you said, nyqps, they also recommended to let me drive harder these days cuz they didnt have time to clean it today. I will go to partsource to get some redline stuff and fill up a tank of gas, rev the **** outta it.
02-11-2008, 10:01 PM
#54
i went to dealer today and was told that the ssv stuck open is caused by a big amount of carbon built up on the intake manifold. like you said, nyqps, they also recommended to let me drive harder these days cuz they didnt have time to clean it today. I will go to partsource to get some redline stuff and fill up a tank of gas, rev the **** outta it.
if Redline is easy to get in your area, buy 2 bottles, 1 bottle for each fill up. rev the **** out of it, from 5500~9000 rpm in 2nd gear. ppl on highway will probably think you're crazy. So when you do it just put your hazardous signal on.
02-11-2008, 10:05 PM
#56
I dont really redline every day. Cuz NYC is loaded with moron drivers. I dont want to hit anybody.
I do it maybe once or twice every week. Redline stuff in every 1 K miles. 4 oz premix every tank. No issue so far.
When I have time, Im gonna do the Adapter, no more engine oil for my 8.
02-12-2008, 12:52 AM
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sorry, one stupid question cuz i have never used it before. should i put a bottle of that into the tank first or fill it up first. i am assuming to put a bottle of it first and fill up right away. am i right?
02-12-2008, 03:00 AM
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I would still rev it everyday or every other day I drive the car. Why let it wait an entire week for an entire week's worth of carbon to build up?
Once again, make sure your car is WARMED up before you rev to redline. I still think a lot of people with busted engines redline all the time before their engine is warmed up.
Once again, make sure your car is WARMED up before you rev to redline. I still think a lot of people with busted engines redline all the time before their engine is warmed up.
02-12-2008, 07:50 AM
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http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9125-...4346 9&sr=8-1
So, you're saying that this scanner IS CanBus compatible? If so that is a great deal it looks like.
So, you're saying that this scanner IS CanBus compatible? If so that is a great deal it looks like.
02-12-2008, 08:38 AM
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And when I bought my '8, the head mechanic at the dealership told me to redline it once a trip because it was good for it.... who in their right mind would argue with that?! I bought a sports car instead of a Camry for a reason.
02-12-2008, 12:24 PM
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nycgps, thanks a lot to your help.
i didnt buy the one you recommanded but i am sure it works cuz my school buddy has the exactly the same thing but he didnt get the good deal from amazon cuz they dont ship to canada. but yeah, he is also an rx8 owner, so it should work for everyone. By the way, is the engine operating temperature around 170 F? cuz i bought the scangauage II and it shows 160 F when coolant temp needle got around the middle but the normally it would go up to 170 or 180 that range when i give it more time run. and sometimes, it goes up to 200 F which is the highest i have ever seen on my car. am i right?
i didnt buy the one you recommanded but i am sure it works cuz my school buddy has the exactly the same thing but he didnt get the good deal from amazon cuz they dont ship to canada. but yeah, he is also an rx8 owner, so it should work for everyone. By the way, is the engine operating temperature around 170 F? cuz i bought the scangauage II and it shows 160 F when coolant temp needle got around the middle but the normally it would go up to 170 or 180 that range when i give it more time run. and sometimes, it goes up to 200 F which is the highest i have ever seen on my car. am i right?
02-12-2008, 01:18 PM
#66
nycgps, thanks a lot to your help.
i didnt buy the one you recommanded but i am sure it works cuz my school buddy has the exactly the same thing but he didnt get the good deal from amazon cuz they dont ship to canada. but yeah, he is also an rx8 owner, so it should work for everyone. By the way, is the engine operating temperature around 170 F? cuz i bought the scangauage II and it shows 160 F when coolant temp needle got around the middle but the normally it would go up to 170 or 180 that range when i give it more time run. and sometimes, it goes up to 200 F which is the highest i have ever seen on my car. am i right?
i didnt buy the one you recommanded but i am sure it works cuz my school buddy has the exactly the same thing but he didnt get the good deal from amazon cuz they dont ship to canada. but yeah, he is also an rx8 owner, so it should work for everyone. By the way, is the engine operating temperature around 170 F? cuz i bought the scangauage II and it shows 160 F when coolant temp needle got around the middle but the normally it would go up to 170 or 180 that range when i give it more time run. and sometimes, it goes up to 200 F which is the highest i have ever seen on my car. am i right?
Thermostat opens partially @ what 75 Celsius ? and Fully open at 80 something. stock fan 1 wont even turn on until 97 Celsius. Why is that I dont know.
One way to keep it cooler for longer, is to get a better Radiator, CRH's BHR Radiator might be able to help you.
02-13-2008, 01:13 AM
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tonight, i went to petro canada where sells the best gas in canada(i heard) to fill up a full tank of 91 octant gas. of course, i poured a entire bottle of redline fuel system cleaner into the tank. i didnt buy the BG44K cuz honestly, there is no shop selling BG44K in Calgary; well, i didnt ask dealerships. I started up the car again after filling up gas. The solid CEL went off....its weird cuz i havent rev my 8 yet....well, doesnt matter if the light was on or no, i am still gonna rev the **** outta it.
I went on the highway where i have planned to go. pushed my car to redline at 1st gear, then shifted up and redline again at 2nd gear for about 20 secs, didnt really feel anything. i revved it up to redline about 20 times at 2nd gear and kept about 10-20 sec each time, the revolution seems pretty smooth; went off the hight, turned off the car, after few minutes, restarted it, still no CEL; went back to high way, kept revving it on the way back home.
Does it mean that my car is OK now?
I went on the highway where i have planned to go. pushed my car to redline at 1st gear, then shifted up and redline again at 2nd gear for about 20 secs, didnt really feel anything. i revved it up to redline about 20 times at 2nd gear and kept about 10-20 sec each time, the revolution seems pretty smooth; went off the hight, turned off the car, after few minutes, restarted it, still no CEL; went back to high way, kept revving it on the way back home.
Does it mean that my car is OK now?
02-13-2008, 01:16 AM
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forgot to mention, i used to use shell v-power a lot, only few sometimes used petro-canada 91 octant cuz its a little bit more expensive than shell v-power;
I guess i would like to use redline fuel cleaner every two weeks to keep the injectors and intake valve clean from now on.
I guess i would like to use redline fuel cleaner every two weeks to keep the injectors and intake valve clean from now on.
02-13-2008, 02:47 PM
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Ah-ah... NO 
1) 9000RPM is your crankshaft speed, actual rotor speed is 3000RPM so it's not as bad as it sounds, especially considering there are far less moving parts in a rotary engine than in a regular piston engine.
2) the tach is set in such a way that it report 300RPM over actual engine speed. eg: at 9300RPM when the fuel cuts off, it's actually going at 9000RPM.
3) rotary engines have been reported to run on bench tests at speeds over 12000RPM without problems , and I'm not talking about a crazy race engine, I'm talking about the renesis that sits in your car.
4) the redline is actually set at 9000RPM because Mazda couldn't get a transmission that would survive over 10500RPM. The 7500RPM redline on the AT RX-8 is the exact same story, only AT trannies had their threshold even lower.
5a) if you bought a car whose main advertised caracteristic is to rev higher than other types of engines, you can be pretty sure the lawyers of the company that provides service related to the warranty will make sure that it can survive usage "as advertised" without blowing up. Hell, we even get a shift indicator at 8500RPM, not 7000RPM.
5b) If your engine is cold, the ECU will actually move the rev limiter to 6000RPM until it detects a correct operating temperature has been reached. That shows that Mazda engineers and lawyers seriously reviewed conditions where the user could damage the engine and decided that in that case, it was dangerous enough (cold engine parts, metal expanding at different rates) to put a limitation that prevents user input from damaging the engine. Guess what, the same guys set your "normal" rev limiter to 9300RPM. Not 7000RPM.
6) The final intake ports open at 7300RPM, and they generally at the first to fail due to carbon deposits if the car is babied too much. Like if you never actually open those ports because you shift at 7000RPM
Don't spread your misunderstanding to unsecure newbies who just had a simple CEL.
1) 9000RPM is your crankshaft speed, actual rotor speed is 3000RPM so it's not as bad as it sounds, especially considering there are far less moving parts in a rotary engine than in a regular piston engine.
2) the tach is set in such a way that it report 300RPM over actual engine speed. eg: at 9300RPM when the fuel cuts off, it's actually going at 9000RPM.
3) rotary engines have been reported to run on bench tests at speeds over 12000RPM without problems , and I'm not talking about a crazy race engine, I'm talking about the renesis that sits in your car.
4) the redline is actually set at 9000RPM because Mazda couldn't get a transmission that would survive over 10500RPM. The 7500RPM redline on the AT RX-8 is the exact same story, only AT trannies had their threshold even lower.
5a) if you bought a car whose main advertised caracteristic is to rev higher than other types of engines, you can be pretty sure the lawyers of the company that provides service related to the warranty will make sure that it can survive usage "as advertised" without blowing up. Hell, we even get a shift indicator at 8500RPM, not 7000RPM.
5b) If your engine is cold, the ECU will actually move the rev limiter to 6000RPM until it detects a correct operating temperature has been reached. That shows that Mazda engineers and lawyers seriously reviewed conditions where the user could damage the engine and decided that in that case, it was dangerous enough (cold engine parts, metal expanding at different rates) to put a limitation that prevents user input from damaging the engine. Guess what, the same guys set your "normal" rev limiter to 9300RPM. Not 7000RPM.
6) The final intake ports open at 7300RPM, and they generally at the first to fail due to carbon deposits if the car is babied too much. Like if you never actually open those ports because you shift at 7000RPM
Don't spread your misunderstanding to unsecure newbies who just had a simple CEL.
02-13-2008, 02:57 PM
#70
tonight, i went to petro canada where sells the best gas in canada(i heard) to fill up a full tank of 91 octant gas. of course, i poured a entire bottle of redline fuel system cleaner into the tank. i didnt buy the BG44K cuz honestly, there is no shop selling BG44K in Calgary; well, i didnt ask dealerships. I started up the car again after filling up gas. The solid CEL went off....its weird cuz i havent rev my 8 yet....well, doesnt matter if the light was on or no, i am still gonna rev the **** outta it.
I went on the highway where i have planned to go. pushed my car to redline at 1st gear, then shifted up and redline again at 2nd gear for about 20 secs, didnt really feel anything. i revved it up to redline about 20 times at 2nd gear and kept about 10-20 sec each time, the revolution seems pretty smooth; went off the hight, turned off the car, after few minutes, restarted it, still no CEL; went back to high way, kept revving it on the way back home.
Does it mean that my car is OK now?
I went on the highway where i have planned to go. pushed my car to redline at 1st gear, then shifted up and redline again at 2nd gear for about 20 secs, didnt really feel anything. i revved it up to redline about 20 times at 2nd gear and kept about 10-20 sec each time, the revolution seems pretty smooth; went off the hight, turned off the car, after few minutes, restarted it, still no CEL; went back to high way, kept revving it on the way back home.
Does it mean that my car is OK now?
I dont think you should rev your car in 1st gear to 9K, cuz thats NOT what that gear designed for. You can keep it in 2nd gear for long long time tho.
Just rev it a bit more and see what happens.
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