philsbluerx8

I know this topic has been discussed so many times and i also redline my car pretty much every 50 kms but unlike other people, i usually redline it at 2nd gear...my car is a 04 WB 6 speed, has 45k kms on it; had one time stalling problem so that my car had been in shop for 1 month and many stuffs had been changed by that time like battery, coils, spark plugs, throttle body.....after that, i swapped my SR intake back to stock with a K&N filter. Tonight, when i was driving on a high way, i knew it was a good time and chance to redline it, so then i put it into 2nd gear, and slowly accelerated it(cuz there was a car at front of me accelerating pretty slow), when it hit about 8k rpm, the CEL started to flush. i was really scared cuz i knew it wasnt a good thing to have a CEL flushed. So then i shifted it up while decelerating my car and prepared to stop. after about 10 secs, the CEL was gone and never appeared again if i wouldnt redline it.
Does my car have any problems? or i didnt understand how to properly redline it? my friend said that i could keep it at high RPM too long but obviously he is a piston owner. what should i do? should i go to dealer?

shaunv74

You have a CEL. Go to the dealer and find out why. Especially if you just got it back.

It makes me scared that you had to ask someone else their opinion on something as straightforward as that.

Mendossa

Flashing CEL under load near redline could be a lot of things, but it most probably is a misfire. Lots of things can cause it, usually ignition related (coils, wires, plug) or bad gas.

If it doesn't light up again, you shouldn't worry too much... you might be lucky and it won't come on again. Most dealer will tell you to drive the car until the CEL stays on and THEN take it to them for a checkup. That means the flashing CEL came on 3 times and now the car tells you this problem is not going away and you should have your dealer check it out.

philsbluerx8

i got my car back about 2 months already. But its weird only at high rpm but i didnt test it again.

philsbluerx8

Did you mean that i should run my car to redline again see if the cel is gonna flush?

shaunv74

Bring it back and have the dealer plug it in. It's probably a misfire. It's common at high RPM. You should be concerned that it happened after the dealer replaced everything in your ignition system except your wires. Could be those.

Let us know what the dealer tells you.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I just had 2 misfires today. Both not even high rpm.

Im not concern tho, but thats just me.

Pull ur car back to the dealership and start whinning about it. cuz you got it after u just pull it out, it cant be *it just happen outa nowhere*. Bring it back.

Startl_Respons

Or just take it in and try to get all the ignition components he listed replaced under warranty. I think Mendossa might be right about it being ignition related.

philsbluerx8

Thanks everyone, i will let a dealer read the CEL since it has been stored, right?
i have seen mazport has some plugs and coils set up, is it really worth to get that? maybe the car will run a lot better?

SlowLude

Hey Phil, let me knowif you plan on getting new coils... I might just get a set with you.

msenzo

I have never and would never redline any car that I paid for. A red line signifies that you have reached the technological limits of the engine, anything pushed to the limit breaks. Formula 1 cars are more advanced that anything on our road but they blow engines, loose hydraulics, break suspensions all the time, because they are driven at their limit all the time. In my opinion redlining your car is a bad idea. If you want to remove carbon deposits, run it at 7000rpm. My car has never given me problems. I don't redline it (OK, maybe once or twice in the year I've had it). I get good fuel economy (520km/tank) I get to starting problems, no stalling, no lights, no power loss (Except that I am over a 1000m above sea level).

Rumboo

No, the redline signifies the technological limits of the drivetrain, plus a sizable safety buffer... Anything pushed to the limits breaks, but the limits for this rotary is appreciably beyond 9,500 rpms.

Anyway, rpm limit for F1 is beyond 18,000 rpms. And that's for a reciprocating piston engine. 9,500 for a rotary isn't much.

SkyLee

true THAT!!! you should redline your car 1 everyone 2 weeks

mdmaclean

I have to agree... the redline is the highest speed the manufacturer considers that you should use; it's not right at the edge engine destruction.

I beeped at least a couple of times a day, don't think that is going to kill a car like this. They know that people will drive a sports car that way.

ja9^

i redline my car every time I drive it. I never take short trips and never turn off my engine cold.

I let it heat up for a couple of minutes (10mins or something before I let it rip!

I have let it run on shell v-power since i got my new engine but it smells so ******* bad of the exaust that Ive decided to try the regular for a while.

Startl_Respons

Please slap yourself.

Jax_RX8

Remember though that while the motor may handle above 9500, the flywheel (and many other parts) are not designed to go above that rpm - and you do not want a fly wheel self destructing on you if you value your legs.

Thankfully the ECU will cut the ignition to prevent this from occuring.

ken-x8

Components on F1 cars are designed to win races, not last a long time. If a part lasts a long time, it's probably too heavy and can be lightened or can be pushed harder. F1 engines are designed to last two races, because of rules. They used to be designed to last one race. The ideal race car would crumble into a pile of dust as it took the checkered flag.

Ken

Mendossa

Ah-ah... NO

1) 9000RPM is your crankshaft speed, actual rotor speed is 3000RPM so it's not as bad as it sounds, especially considering there are far less moving parts in a rotary engine than in a regular piston engine.

2) the tach is set in such a way that it report 300RPM over actual engine speed. eg: at 9300RPM when the fuel cuts off, it's actually going at 9000RPM.

3) rotary engines have been reported to run on bench tests at speeds over 12000RPM without problems , and I'm not talking about a crazy race engine, I'm talking about the renesis that sits in your car.

4) the redline is actually set at 9000RPM because Mazda couldn't get a transmission that would survive over 10500RPM. The 7500RPM redline on the AT RX-8 is the exact same story, only AT trannies had their threshold even lower.

5a) if you bought a car whose main advertised caracteristic is to rev higher than other types of engines, you can be pretty sure the lawyers of the company that provides service related to the warranty will make sure that it can survive usage "as advertised" without blowing up. Hell, we even get a shift indicator at 8500RPM, not 7000RPM.

5b) If your engine is cold, the ECU will actually move the rev limiter to 6000RPM until it detects a correct operating temperature has been reached. That shows that Mazda engineers and lawyers seriously reviewed conditions where the user could damage the engine and decided that in that case, it was dangerous enough (cold engine parts, metal expanding at different rates) to put a limitation that prevents user input from damaging the engine. Guess what, the same guys set your "normal" rev limiter to 9300RPM. Not 7000RPM.

6) The final intake ports open at 7300RPM, and they generally at the first to fail due to carbon deposits if the car is babied too much. Like if you never actually open those ports because you shift at 7000RPM

Don't spread your misunderstanding to unsecure newbies who just had a simple CEL.

2tone

iTrader: (3)

mendossa for president!!! good explanation man!!

shaunv74

+1 it's fine to rev. to the redline. You're not making best power there though. The flywheel and clutch aren't recommended to go above 10Krpm. Racingbeat actually increases the redline to 9300rpm with their NA PCM tune.

You can read more about it here: www.racingbeat.com

Mendossa

Like the sig!

Rumboo

Yeah, I did say 'drivetrain'...and I stand by the 'sizable safety buffer' comment as well based on the simple fact that ppl redline the 8 every day, but I don't remember anyone reporting a flywheel failure on this board. Many ppl have also had transient rpm spikes above 9,500, but no kablooey. CEL, yes.. kablooey, no.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Mazda choose 9000 because power is dropping so fast that theres no point in revving further. Please get your facts straight before answering.

Are we comparing apples to oranges here or comparing bees to cows ?

Socket7

So in summery.

The engine is designed to handle more then 9000 RPM.

The Transmission is designed to handle around 9000 RPM, but probably not all day long (and why would you do that? even when racing.)

Redline is A-OK!