Okay, that should be easy. I may head to the shop tonight.

 

Do you have the version 2 Cobb with the separate dongle or do you have the latest version where the OBDII cable goes straight from the Cobb to the OBDII connector on the car?

 

It has the cobb, usb cable(normal to mini usb), and the obd II dongle. It does NOT have the cable that goes directly to the obd II port. The computer reads fine the cobb fine, and the cobb will pick up the dongle version in the settings. When I pluged it in to the obd II the cobb screen never came on. I only gave it one try. I haven't had time to tinker with it. I didn't have the cobb with the old engine. I just bought it used(uninstalled). I will be very angry if it is not working properly.

 

I just looked at the part listing of the counter weight I purchased. It is supposed to be for my car. I will admit to buying a cheaper counterweight(F1 racing). Has anyone one heard of low quality counter weights from this brand? As far as I can tell there wasn't any advantage of paying extra for this part. I also wonder if there is any way to confirm this is the actual part for my car.

 

Try plugging the dongle into your PC and updating it to insure it has the latest firmware. If the dongle is bad you can get a new one from Cobb for pretty cheap.

 

as far as i know ALL of the counterweights come from Mazda, and are reboxed, who else would make such a thing?

actually if it was actually an aftermarket made part, run! it'll probably fly off and chase you

 

That is what I was thinking. It looks identical as every other one I have ever seen.

I have been looking for any ones else who has had issues similar to this one. All I find is the common idle vibration. This is not that at all. It much worse and it just worsens up to 3k. It seems strictly associated with rpm(not throttle or load). When I'm back at the shop in going to run a test. I'm going to rev the car up and shut it off at high rpms. If it continues to vibrate as it revs down(which I predict it will), then I will know the issue is mechanical and not a misfire.


Thanks for the tip, you saved me some time on the cobb forms. I updated the dongle. It should work when I put it on the car now. I will make a trip up there this weekend and give it a try along with resetting the VNram.

 

The Cobb still won't power on. Even with new cable. I'm going to have to contact them with that issue and see about replacing the dongle.

I started the car again today. There is no way any kind of ignition problem can cause any kind of vehicle to shake that violently. But I ran it against my better judgement. The misfire code may have cleared up with the NVram reset as it didn't show up. I logged a pretty lengthy time of idling and revved it up a bit. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary, other than a high ltft( held at 8.5%).

I have an attached file of the idle log. This is after the NVram reset, approaching/at operating temperature. It can be opened with windows office excel.

I am trying to upload a video. I don't feel comfortable running the car any more until the issue is resolved. On a positive side this is a good way to test for lose bolts!

Thanks again for all the support and time y'all have up into this.

 

^youtube link^

not best quality





edit: it is much worse the it appears in this video.

 

New theory, I'm not sure if this is possible. But I did do a thermo pellet bypass on the motor. Would it be possible for the key to slip out of the key way enough for the internal counter weight to not be locked in with the key. Then when I torque down on the hub bolt it would mash the key between the hub bolt and counter weight locking it in a random position. I would think that this would make it leak oil as the hub bolt shouldn't be able to thread all the way(no leaks noted). I'm going to mock it up with my original e-shaft and see if this is even a possibility.

If this is the case, how difficult is it to remove the front hub bolt with the engine in place? Would it be worth pulling the engine again to reset the key propery?

 

all counterweight came from Mazda. ONLY one that I've heard of that's better than Mazda is the ACT CW. ACT said they rebalanced it a bit before they rebox it.

sounds more like a marketing thing than actual, not to mention the only way to truly balance it is to have all rotating assembly and balance it all together

if the counter weight is wrong (some have no markings!), it WILL make your engine run fubar just like that. Is it really that hard to get a OEM counterweight? you do know that All automatic transmission car has one right ?

 

Bad news! I pulled the hub bolt off to find the key crushed! I could not reinsert the key from the original engine into the counter weight slot (it went in fine through both oil pump gears). The counter weight is rotating with the E-shaft without the key in the key way. I'm sure I crushed one of the thrust bearings. So after spewing a quarter ton of profanity, the motor is coming back out!
F###ing rookie mechanic! (aka me)
Plus I have to send the cobb in and pay more $$ to get the upgraded version.

I need a beer!

 

HAPPY DAYS!
Pulled the motor, reset the counter weight with a new keyway, changed thrust bearings(original ones looked fine just precaution), dropped it back in, and like magic it ran perfect!!! Only expected codes(Cat and air injection system). Thanks for all the input, especially 9krpmrx8.

The only complaint I have now is with out the cat or resonator from the original mid-pipe the car as some undesirable rasp. I knew this would happen but my budget did not permit me to spend twice as much on a resonated pipe.

Does any one have any thoughts on cutting off the resonator off the original pipe and putting it on the test pipe?

 

Ouch, glad you got it sorted man Happy rotoring.

 

wrong thread

 

Whats the best way you would recommend keeping up with everything you took off