hi, ive had a quick look through the threads and cant see this, ive de flooded a number of rx8's and this is by far the best method, sorry if someone has posted this. Firstly dont hold me responsible if you break anything.
1. Remove rear nearside seat (pulls off)
2. Underneath you will find a silver plate held in by four screws (phillips). Remove this
3. You will find the fuel pump and the plug, unplug the plug
4.Crank the car for no more than 20 secs holding the throttle 1/3 of the way down
5. Leave for 10 secs
6. after the first or second attempt you will hear the car regain compression
7. After around 10 secs you will hear the car try to start, PLUG IN THE FUEL PUMP SENSOR !!
8. The car should start, if not follow this again
9. when started, dont floor the car but give reasonable revs to clear the cat, dont worry about the smoke too much its clearing out the ****.
worked in about 5 mins as apose to the 2 hour job with the fuse, spark plug and mazda handbook method

 

So just how do you think this is different than removing the fuse ...just more difficult

The fuse powers down the pump the same as removing the plug

The difference you saw was because some floods are worse than others

The easiest way to start a flooded MT RX8 is to pull start it...no question

 

wow!! that sounds easy xD was it hard to remove d rear nearside seats? o_O

 

👍👍👍👍👍👍

 

Pulling the fuse still allows the whole system to de-pressure thru the injectors, adding plenty of fuel to the flood.

Flooring the pedal while cranking shuts off the injectors - better than all the above.

















Whatever, I tired long ago of giving the correct facts about defloods - do it however you 'feel' is best.

 

1. Hook battery to a charger
2. Floor the pedal
3. Crank for 10-20 seconds

 

it would be much smarter to disconnect the cat first rather than greatly reduce it's life by firing it up connected from a flood

 

The quickest method is hook up your car to another car and pull start it.

 

mazda told me if we hold our pedal down all the way and crank it will stop pushing in fuel and clear out the old. its some kind of default flood thing.. that what i was told anyway..

 

Oldest trick in the book, even (for a piston engine) with a weak starter and/or dead battery. But... what if it's an automatic transmission? I've alway wondered if the car can be push/pull started in neutral then into "DRIVE"; also, how can one determine the amount of unburnt fuel dumped into the catalytic converter that would eventually cause it to actually clog and fail?