Power door lock
#27
Hate Scrape 8
i just got the driver door problem yesterday, if i dont play with the remote for a while, it works for the first 2-3 times, but then won;t move anymore, when i play with the remote when the door is open, i see the switch slighly move, but moving very slowly, and doesnt fully open. Yesterday was a really hot day, not sure if thats the issue.
#28
So I have the same issue in my 05' Shinka. The passenger side stopped locking with the remote and the power lock button on either door. There isn't even a hint of movement. The driver side is still working though. I also hear the clicking coming from the glove box area as mentioned before. I can still manually lock and unlock the passenger door. If it is a bad connection from the heat it would make sense as I live in AZ and this summer has been over 110 several weeks in a row. Any ideas what I need to replace/check?
Actuator?
Motor?
Connections?
Any help would be appreciated.
Actuator?
Motor?
Connections?
Any help would be appreciated.
#29
I've had this issues for awhile.
- Passenger door lock stopped working then the driver did the same. The only noise that I can hear is a 'relay' type sound from near the glovebox.
- I just replaced both door lock motors/actuators and it is doing the exact same things. Click from under the glovebox, but nothing happens.
Any ideas?
- Passenger door lock stopped working then the driver did the same. The only noise that I can hear is a 'relay' type sound from near the glovebox.
- I just replaced both door lock motors/actuators and it is doing the exact same things. Click from under the glovebox, but nothing happens.
Any ideas?
#30
Registered
damn having the same problem now on my passenger side... will pull my door apart and come back here as it seems common and there's been no concrete answer or agreement. kinda leaning on the actuator problem and replacement but we'll see.
#31
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Olathe, KS
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My passenger side door lock problem actually solved itself a few months back, which is really weird. Same problem description as many of you had; hearing some kind of relay sound but nothing happened, etc.. I didn't bother to have it fix since I don't usually have any passenger. But then one day, it worked when I unlocked the door to get out of my car! Along those time, I'm pretty sure I didn't do anything in particular to try to fix it. So many for most of you, this will fix itself eventually? 1 thing to note, the weather here is really cold now, but it still works, so I doubt it has anything to do with the weather. Also, my battery was dead when I was back, and both the doors still work.
Last edited by gumboo; 01-03-2013 at 09:41 AM. Reason: additional note
#32
Mine is still happening after a couple of years but on my driver's side. It works a couple of times and then stops being strong enough. It is as if a capacitor is bad.
Changing temp on the HVAC setting is having issues too. It doesn't move the flap the right amount. Usually it is all the way hot or if I move it a little counter clockwise it goes all the way cold.
Changing temp on the HVAC setting is having issues too. It doesn't move the flap the right amount. Usually it is all the way hot or if I move it a little counter clockwise it goes all the way cold.
#33
Lol ........i am on the same train
1. I can open the drivers door with the alarm, but not the passenger.
2. I can't use the unlock or lock button in both the passenger and driver.
3. I can lock both driver and passenger door with the key.
1. I can open the drivers door with the alarm, but not the passenger.
2. I can't use the unlock or lock button in both the passenger and driver.
3. I can lock both driver and passenger door with the key.
#34
Anyone?? Seriously no one has found the problem?? lol iv had issue with passenger door for a while now the driver door is becoming an issue?? If anyone has found the problem please post!
Will update if i find anything.
Will update if i find anything.
#36
me too
I had this problem but my drivers door failed in the locked position.I didn't feel confident enough to peel the door panel off after reading how tricky it is so i went to my Mazda guy and $350.00 later it was fixed. The connecting rod had come out of its connection and a piece in the door failed.
#37
For North America, Door Lock/Latch
FE01-58-310D Right Hand WITHOUT Theft Alarm
FE02-58-310D Right Hand WITH Theft Alarm
FE01-59-310E Left Hand
VIN Number will confirm details.
This is from another thread. I thought it would be helpful to those still looking.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...k-lock-239225/
FE01-58-310D Right Hand WITHOUT Theft Alarm
FE02-58-310D Right Hand WITH Theft Alarm
FE01-59-310E Left Hand
VIN Number will confirm details.
This is from another thread. I thought it would be helpful to those still looking.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...k-lock-239225/
#38
Driving my unreliable rx8
well this wasen't the actuator for me. I tried replacing both of them. I hear a slick coming from the keyless entry module under the glove box. at the same time the door locks wiggle just a bit. I'm having hell getting it out. but it's most of the way out. My guess is bad wiring or the relays in it are burnt. I'm hoping I can find a fix.
#39
Super bump!
Tried to tackle this issue on my passenger side. Lock doesn’t respond. Clocks but no actuation.
Pulled door apart, checked voltage at the actuator’s connector, good. Tested the motor box with my power supply and it seemed like the motor wouldn’t apply the needed torque.
Ordered and installed a new actuator. Hooked up the battery and tried a few times with the car off. Worked great from both doors in both directions!
But then I went for a drive and the dream ended hahaha. Hasn’t worked after sitting another day in the driveway. Back to the click with no movement.
Next step is to reconfirm fuses and then the keyless unit I believe? Any opinions here?
Tried to tackle this issue on my passenger side. Lock doesn’t respond. Clocks but no actuation.
Pulled door apart, checked voltage at the actuator’s connector, good. Tested the motor box with my power supply and it seemed like the motor wouldn’t apply the needed torque.
Ordered and installed a new actuator. Hooked up the battery and tried a few times with the car off. Worked great from both doors in both directions!
But then I went for a drive and the dream ended hahaha. Hasn’t worked after sitting another day in the driveway. Back to the click with no movement.
Next step is to reconfirm fuses and then the keyless unit I believe? Any opinions here?
#40
Same problem here. Passenger side will not lock/unlock. Curiously, I had a problem with no light flash during lock, no 2 flashes during unlock. That fixed itself suddenly after 3 months. Immediately I found this new problem. Both functions are controlled by the keyless entry module... the full current for the actuator flows out of that module, so I suspect it. Why these problems are intermittent though I cannot say. Not going to tear into the door panel after reading the nightmares here and still did not solve the issue. Hope someone knows what this obviously big problem is. I wonder if any of the other higher production model lines have this issue???
#42
Turns out I DID remove the door panel. Burned up motor for the actuator. Dealer wants $150 or so for the part. I can get 2 actuator assemblies for Mazda 6 (same part) on Amazon for $45 Stealership.
#43
Just wanted to follow up on this thread to confirm the Mazda 6 door lock actuators are the way to go. My passenger side actuator completely failed and the drivers side was on the way out. Picked up a set from Ebay (Door Lock Actuator For 2003-2008 Mazda 6 Front Left and Right Set of 2) for about $30.
Dropped right in with no issues. Should be good now for another 15 years
Dropped right in with no issues. Should be good now for another 15 years
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