Possible New Renesis Engine Failure Theory?
#76
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#77
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Well an eventual loss in compression if no oil is being injected due to failed oil injectors or clogged lines. Basically my lines were clogged and the oil injectors faulty so no oil was being injected. Had I not been premixing 1oz per gallon the apex seals would wear prematurely and resulting in a loss of compression.
#78
#79
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
No, the engine only has 25k on it and I have premixed since day one so on my particular engine I don't think any damage was done due to the amount I was premixing. But, but if I had not been premixing, then the apex seals would not have been receiving any lubrication. I have been reading and it appears that the oil injectors failing is not so uncommon. I'm not sure how different an FC or FD oil injector is from a S1 injector but I have read that they fail the vacuum test pretty often. and I know opinions vary on who we consider to be knowledgeable but Rotary Resurrection also stated he has seen them fail often.
This is just my theory, it's open for discussion. I'm all for learning.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 01-13-2011 at 09:42 AM.
#80
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
Well an eventual loss in compression if no oil is being injected due to failed oil injectors or clogged lines. Basically my lines were clogged and the oil injectors faulty so no oil was being injected. Had I not been premixing 1oz per gallon the apex seals would wear prematurely and resulting in a loss of compression.
N3H1-14-660B
N3H1-14-670B
N3H1-14-680B
N3H1-14-690B
and we all know Mazda won't update their parts without reasons, either cost reduction (which usually means crap) and/or parts improvements. Lets hope its the latter.
Should I try to do the SS line or just get some stock replacements ? ... hmm decision decisions ... stock line is not "that" expensive imo ... hmm ....
Last edited by nycgps; 01-13-2011 at 09:43 AM.
#81
Registered
Well an eventual loss in compression if no oil is being injected due to failed oil injectors or clogged lines. Basically my lines were clogged and the oil injectors faulty so no oil was being injected. Had I not been premixing 1oz per gallon the apex seals would wear prematurely and resulting in a loss of compression.
#82
#83
If so, I will post up later today/tonight as I have shipments to make and an insurance premium to pay so we can open the new shop this weekend.
#84
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Now this is the question of the day. 10,000 miles? 20,000 miles? I guess it would really depend on the driving conditions. I don't imagine no lubrication to the apex seals would be good on a long hot track day. But then I know that you have stated previously that you have driven with your SOHN reservoir empty and your engine is ok.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 01-13-2011 at 10:49 AM.
#85
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#86
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I guess I shouldn't be surprised since it is the same science - whether it is before or after the throttle body doesn't matter.
In any event, it is absolutely an atmo reference whether you agree or not.
The OMP, filler neck breather and JAB all need to see atmospheric pressure and nothing less or more.
You should measure it for yourself so that you aren't left behind should the information there be needed for a future project of yours.
EDIT - BTW, just because there is suction on the line doesn't mean it is referenced to vacuum. It just means it is creating a vacuum because where the line goes is at a lower pressure. The JAB is a good example of that.
#87
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
If you are daily driving hitting 9k here and there you most likely wouldn't get any noticeable damage for quite some time.
It would just start wearing away on the housings and the seals until compression was so low it wouldn't hold idle.
There wouldn't be a dramatic breaking of the apex seal just a gradual wearing away until the apex seal reached its spring limit from housing damage and seal damage.
That's what I think at least.
It would just start wearing away on the housings and the seals until compression was so low it wouldn't hold idle.
There wouldn't be a dramatic breaking of the apex seal just a gradual wearing away until the apex seal reached its spring limit from housing damage and seal damage.
That's what I think at least.
#88
Registered
Two questions please:
1. Can we say that your theory has the Apex Seals wearing out?
2. Does the title of your thread imply this may be the main reason why engines lose compression and go to the Mazda rebuild facility?
Seeking to understand. Thanks.
1. Can we say that your theory has the Apex Seals wearing out?
2. Does the title of your thread imply this may be the main reason why engines lose compression and go to the Mazda rebuild facility?
Seeking to understand. Thanks.
#89
If you are daily driving hitting 9k here and there you most likely wouldn't get any noticeable damage for quite some time.
It would just start wearing away on the housings and the seals until compression was so low it wouldn't hold idle.
There wouldn't be a dramatic breaking of the apex seal just a gradual wearing away until the apex seal reached its spring limit from housing damage and seal damage.
That's what I think at least.
It would just start wearing away on the housings and the seals until compression was so low it wouldn't hold idle.
There wouldn't be a dramatic breaking of the apex seal just a gradual wearing away until the apex seal reached its spring limit from housing damage and seal damage.
That's what I think at least.
#91
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
2. Does it? I am looking for discussion on the idea. I don't think it is the main reason for failures, I think there are a few reasons a series 1 engine rarely makes it over a 100k on the original engine. I personally think that many do not monitor oil consumption and would not even realize if their car was burning oil or not. If they have a situation where their OMP lines and/or injectors have failed, their engine would fail eventually do to the lack of lubrication to the apex seals.
I feel like I am repeating myself . Do you agree or disagree that if no oil is being injected that it would cause the engine to eventually fail quicker than a normally functioning engine?
Thanks
#92
9krpmrx8 not that my opinion really amounts to anything but I totally agree with your theory. If oil was not needed to lubricate the internals such as the rotors, seals, and housings why would an oil metering pump be incorporated into the overall design. Furthermore why would Mazda have incorpoated another injection nozzle into the design for the series II. Not to mention the reflash to increase flow from the oil metering pump for the series I.
#93
Super Moderator
Well the replacement lines aren't that expensive - what we need now is a DIY...
http://atkinsrotary.com/store/catalo...t-p-17186.html
http://atkinsrotary.com/store/catalo...r-p-17890.html
This would be a good midlife upgrade in conjunction with a seafoaming I should imagine.
http://atkinsrotary.com/store/catalo...t-p-17186.html
http://atkinsrotary.com/store/catalo...r-p-17890.html
This would be a good midlife upgrade in conjunction with a seafoaming I should imagine.
N3H1-14-660B Tube $39.62
N3H1-14-670B Tube $39.62
N3H1-14-680B Tube $39.62
N3H1-14-690B Tube $39.62
N3H1-14-631B Nozzle $59.16ea
http://onlinemazdaparts.com/partloca...?siteid=214264
Last edited by ASH8; 01-13-2011 at 11:30 AM.
#94
Super Moderator
Mazda updated the original part to B already
N3H1-14-660B
N3H1-14-670B
N3H1-14-680B
N3H1-14-690B
and we all know Mazda won't update their parts without reasons, either cost reduction (which usually means crap) and/or parts improvements. Lets hope its the latter.
Should I try to do the SS line or just get some stock replacements ? ... hmm decision decisions ... stock line is not "that" expensive imo ... hmm ....
N3H1-14-660B
N3H1-14-670B
N3H1-14-680B
N3H1-14-690B
and we all know Mazda won't update their parts without reasons, either cost reduction (which usually means crap) and/or parts improvements. Lets hope its the latter.
Should I try to do the SS line or just get some stock replacements ? ... hmm decision decisions ... stock line is not "that" expensive imo ... hmm ....
#96
Super Moderator
1. Yes, I think that is safe to say that if the oil injectors are not injecting and the lines are clogged the the Apex seals will wear prematurely. Unless premixing is happening.
2. Does it? I am looking for discussion on the idea. I don't think it is the main reason for failures, I think there are a few reasons a series 1 engine rarely makes it over a 100k on the original engine. I personally think that many do not monitor oil consumption and would not even realize if their car was burning oil or not. If they have a situation where their OMP lines and/or injectors have failed, their engine would fail eventually do to the lack of lubrication to the apex seals.
I feel like I am repeating myself . Do you agree or disagree that if no oil is being injected that it would cause the engine to eventually fail quicker than a normally functioning engine?
Thanks
2. Does it? I am looking for discussion on the idea. I don't think it is the main reason for failures, I think there are a few reasons a series 1 engine rarely makes it over a 100k on the original engine. I personally think that many do not monitor oil consumption and would not even realize if their car was burning oil or not. If they have a situation where their OMP lines and/or injectors have failed, their engine would fail eventually do to the lack of lubrication to the apex seals.
I feel like I am repeating myself . Do you agree or disagree that if no oil is being injected that it would cause the engine to eventually fail quicker than a normally functioning engine?
Thanks
You are pretty much spot on with all your comments.
I am really surprise at the 'lack of knowledge' by someone who races and is telling us all about data and not to 'guess' anything without it (only when it suits).
I suggest owners go to their mechanics and ask, seeing they rebuild "so many" engines.
It has been my experience that most Racing Rotaries totally disconnect MOP or even S2 EMOP's, and add Oil to Fuel for lubrication only, but then again using Oil in fuel may be against Policy and Regulations at events and the teams may fail scrutineering by doing so...using oil in gas that is...or what we would call heavy pre-mixing.
Or perhaps they run both MOP's and Pre-Mixing?
But as Paul's (Mazmart) (where has he been lately??) engine builder supremo (Mr E), has relayed to us, the majority of Renesis that he has rebuilt has has abnormal wear of Apex Seals, and Eccentric Shaft Bearings...
For memory Mr E also did not like 5W20 oils period for ANY rotary, I wonder if he has changed his mind...another story.
#97
Registered
OEM Cheaper on-line from a Mazda Dealer.
N3H1-14-660B Tube $39.62
N3H1-14-670B Tube $39.62
N3H1-14-680B Tube $39.62
N3H1-14-690B Tube $39.62
N3H1-14-631B Nozzle $59.16ea
http://onlinemazdaparts.com/partloca...?siteid=214264
N3H1-14-660B Tube $39.62
N3H1-14-670B Tube $39.62
N3H1-14-680B Tube $39.62
N3H1-14-690B Tube $39.62
N3H1-14-631B Nozzle $59.16ea
http://onlinemazdaparts.com/partloca...?siteid=214264
Most of you are probably unaware of this (I was too a few years ago). Mazda has a racer parts pricing program here in the States. Discounted pricing and super low shipment pricing. For example p/n N3H1-14-660B: $30.48 This is the first part number listed above or about a $9 savings.
The Mazda parts program is where some of you guys may end up one day if you go Club Racing or AutoXing. Most all Mazda Racers (not drivers) are aware of and enrolled in this program. There is no better pricing in the U.S. None. The pricing for pro drivers is quite a bit lower yet. Look into it or at least be more aware.
Link to the Mazda Racer program:
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/registration.htm
#98
Super Moderator
This is MMC Japan Series 1 complete (final) Parts list, A never existed.
These are also S1 Exclusive Parts.
#99
Ayrton Senna Forever
I still disagree Ayrton-- dont forget that there are also other lines that come from that site that are used as vacuum lines--the one to the sump/oil filler pipe for instance. The airflow is the same before the TB as it is behind the TB also.
Its a small thing anyway. I was just trying to understand out that system works exactly, but I gave up. I am just going to premix as if i dont have a mop/omp and keep a close watch on my plugs. Relying on the mop is too risky for me.
Its a small thing anyway. I was just trying to understand out that system works exactly, but I gave up. I am just going to premix as if i dont have a mop/omp and keep a close watch on my plugs. Relying on the mop is too risky for me.
The oil nozzle receives the barometric pressure from the air hose to prevent the negative pressure from the engine being applied to the oil inlet. Also, a one-way check valve has been adopted to prevent oil from flowing out of the air hose side when the engine is under positive pressure.
1 Air hose side
2 One-way check valve
3 Oil inlet
4 Oil outlet
5 Housing side
Between the trottle's butterfly valve and the engine is vacuum. But there is atmo pres between the air cleaner and the throttle's butterfly valve. If there would be vacuum at the MOP nozzle's air intake pipe (1), the engine suck's out more oil from the MOP (3) than that is metering. With the atmospheric pressure on the nozzle's air intake (1), the engine's vacuum only sucks (4) the metered oil amount (pushing by the weak pressure of the MOP) and air from the air hose side (1).
Last edited by ayrton012; 01-13-2011 at 01:37 PM.
#100
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
If I get a chance this weekend I will write something up, it's pretty straight forward if you are mechanically inclined. You just have to take your time and not get frustrated.