Possible Cheap Overheating Solution
#27
I'm trying to stay below 220 F indicated coolant temp, based on the assertion that the rotor housings start to deform above 225 F.
Last edited by snarlingbeast; 06-20-2010 at 06:28 PM.
#29
Thanks everyone for your input. Based on my research and what you've said, I'm going to go ahead with this mod. I'll post some install pics and my data once it's up and running.
#30
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people do this spray mod on their last resource, when they don't have a 3 row radiator, water pump, a lower temp thermostat or a aftermarket hood.
It is not a simple and cheap project, you have to do research and development, you will easily spend 10 hours of your time, buying parts is another 2 hours, installing will cost you maybe 4 hours. By the time you finish you will spend 80-100 in parts and 16-20 hours of your time.
If you work for $20/hr, just the labor cost can get you a radiator..
It is not a simple and cheap project, you have to do research and development, you will easily spend 10 hours of your time, buying parts is another 2 hours, installing will cost you maybe 4 hours. By the time you finish you will spend 80-100 in parts and 16-20 hours of your time.
If you work for $20/hr, just the labor cost can get you a radiator..
#31
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and just how long after you've emptied and ended the supply spray do you think any droplets of water are going to take to evaporate sitting on fins attached to as much as 200 degree tubing with a good airflow at that?
#32
I zoom therefore I am.
he wasn't looking for input, he's just looking to test out his idea. I think it's great he's going to spend the time wrenching to test it out.. but without any baseline temps ("i watched the gauge on the cluster move" doesnt count) this will all still be pretty useless.
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