One more single oil coolered.
08-15-2010, 11:03 AM
#51
Great Idea.
Yes, and thanks to you Dannobre, I found great place locally called Taylor hose that sells JIC fittings and Push Loc hose, and they can get just about everything else too. They dropped their prices significantly when I showed them how much I could save by buying online so I just gave them the business even though it was a bit more.
Yes, and thanks to you Dannobre, I found great place locally called Taylor hose that sells JIC fittings and Push Loc hose, and they can get just about everything else too. They dropped their prices significantly when I showed them how much I could save by buying online so I just gave them the business even though it was a bit more.
08-15-2010, 02:19 PM
#54
Momentum Keeps Me Going
^ well if I wanted to fit an NPT style fitting (from say a sending unit that would typically fit on the RB sandwich style oil filter adapter) to this BSP one on the rear housing. This would eliminating the idiot light sending unit, instead just allow installing a std pressure sending unit there, if that is possible. Sorry I'm not so familiar with the various fitting terminology.
08-15-2010, 03:14 PM
#55
You can buy adapters from NPT to BSP...or use a BSP tap to change the NPT fitting...but often there isn't enough stub sticking out for this to work
I bought a street tee...with an BSP nipple, and 2 NPT females....
There are lots of options..but space is a limiting factor down there
Another thing that works is to drill a hole in the banjo bolt for the oil supply line...and tap in a NPT thread....just be sure your fitting doesn't go in too far and restrict oil flow..that works well.....if you have access to a lathe it is a lot easier
I bought a street tee...with an BSP nipple, and 2 NPT females....
There are lots of options..but space is a limiting factor down there
Another thing that works is to drill a hole in the banjo bolt for the oil supply line...and tap in a NPT thread....just be sure your fitting doesn't go in too far and restrict oil flow..that works well.....if you have access to a lathe it is a lot easier
08-16-2010, 03:21 AM
#56
Ayrton Senna Forever
Thread Starter
Nice seeing you posting again
I'm not pretty sure how this mod is gonna help against a properly modified oil pressure regulator. With the one I got from Mazmart i see oil constant oil pressures above 6.5\7 bars, a tad less when cruising but still around that mark.
Anyway the cooling capacity of the stock oil radiators is enough for a street driven\track day NA car even during summer days provided that you have the wheel wells cut open and the pressure regulator installed.
With those mods, Mazmart's water pump and an emptied engine bay i keep forgetting to do cool down laps so i'm not really sure how an oil cooler conversion could change my situation!
I'm not pretty sure how this mod is gonna help against a properly modified oil pressure regulator. With the one I got from Mazmart i see oil constant oil pressures above 6.5\7 bars, a tad less when cruising but still around that mark.
Anyway the cooling capacity of the stock oil radiators is enough for a street driven\track day NA car even during summer days provided that you have the wheel wells cut open and the pressure regulator installed.
With those mods, Mazmart's water pump and an emptied engine bay i keep forgetting to do cool down laps so i'm not really sure how an oil cooler conversion could change my situation!
I thoughjt the same, before the single cooler mod. I thought the regulator's modding will be sacrificing, but at low-mid-high rpms I did not get enough oil pressure with warm 30w oil, if I see the Mazda reference pressure, or the old 10PSI/1000rpm rule. Earlier I red 9krpmrx8's single cooler mod thread, and it was great that he got higher pressure only by the "simplier" oil cooling system.
So I did the "same". Now the pressure is about 10PSI higher at the same rpm, than before with the warm (hot) 0w-30 oil, only by the less restrictive single oil cooling system. The reason for the higher pressure at low rpm could be that the hot 30w is relatively thin, so a part of the oil flow can find way (to drain) between the regulator's piston and cylinder wall (with partly opened regulators). With the less restrictive system this draining back effect is smaller. A thicker oil can decreases this loss too, but as we know it decreases the amount of oil flow too.
So I get higher pressure (more oil) with thinner oil.
Otherwise for the cooler placing scepticals. The oil temps are lower and more stable with this radiator-condenser-oil cooler sandwich vs. factory 2 OC's system. There are much higher and well directed air flow in the middle, than on the two sides. And more good things, when the vents of the radiator are working, its cool the oil cooler too., not like in the factory place.
Last edited by ayrton012; 08-16-2010 at 03:23 AM.
08-16-2010, 03:57 AM
#57
I guess that it could make sense
The fact is that I really have no cooling problems with my oil coolers as my oil temps never exceed 95° even at the track so i see no need for this kind of modification in my application!
The fact is that I really have no cooling problems with my oil coolers as my oil temps never exceed 95° even at the track so i see no need for this kind of modification in my application!
08-16-2010, 09:54 AM
#58
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Dannobre, do you know what size bsp thread the factory sending unit is? I wonder if all oil pressure sending units have the same thread size. I have one off of a Jeep, I am just wondering if I can take that with me to the hose place to see if they can get that adapter.
08-17-2010, 07:19 AM
#62
Ayrton Senna Forever
Thread Starter
09-22-2010, 02:26 PM
#68
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Nah, just lost compression on the old S1 engine - we had a misfire from knackered leads and pushed the car to finish the event (we were leading our class so thought it was worth it).
Unfortunately when we got it home and it had cooled down it struggled to start and was about 100bhp down on power - had cracked a side seal with the misfires.
Managed to source an S2 engine that was almost brand new, and spent the last month changing all the frame/oil system/electrics/trigger wheel/pulleys, etc, and swapping old parts over to get it to fit.
Unfortunately when we got it home and it had cooled down it struggled to start and was about 100bhp down on power - had cracked a side seal with the misfires.
Managed to source an S2 engine that was almost brand new, and spent the last month changing all the frame/oil system/electrics/trigger wheel/pulleys, etc, and swapping old parts over to get it to fit.
09-24-2010, 04:50 PM
#69
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Right, peak oil pressure is 142.6psi when the oil is warm, it'll hit about 154psi on rapid acceleration for the briefest moment, but I think it's just the delay from the valves cracking open.
Oh, and the new engine sings like a choir!
Oh, and the new engine sings like a choir!
09-24-2010, 05:49 PM
#74
SARX Legend
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Yeah I have a thread about it, there are many things that would have to be addressed and many things that may or may not work with the S2 renny. I would just love to do it so I could build my 8 NA so that it would last a long time. I'm only at 20k on the mazda rebuild and I have my doubts already. I will be on the dyno after my injectors are serviced and we will see just how healthy my engine is.
09-27-2010, 04:20 AM
#75
Ayrton Senna Forever
Thread Starter
Nice. So the much higher oil pressure of the S2 Renesis is verified.