Cool! Saves me from having to crossthread them in gooped up with LockTite! I'm running out of messing with the car time (until towards the end of September), so maybe one of u's could post up a DIY or make a new thread after you do the swap. Possibly some of the variations in posted op readings come from having differing adapter plates and potentially different oil filters right next to the sensors.

 

^ so who has a direct link to an adapter fitting this JIC style to one like the RB adapter uses?

 

WHere?

 

^ well if I wanted to fit an NPT style fitting (from say a sending unit that would typically fit on the RB sandwich style oil filter adapter) to this BSP one on the rear housing. This would eliminating the idiot light sending unit, instead just allow installing a std pressure sending unit there, if that is possible. Sorry I'm not so familiar with the various fitting terminology.

 

You can buy adapters from NPT to BSP...or use a BSP tap to change the NPT fitting...but often there isn't enough stub sticking out for this to work

I bought a street tee...with an BSP nipple, and 2 NPT females....

There are lots of options..but space is a limiting factor down there

Another thing that works is to drill a hole in the banjo bolt for the oil supply line...and tap in a NPT thread....just be sure your fitting doesn't go in too far and restrict oil flow..that works well.....if you have access to a lathe it is a lot easier

 

Hi Giorgio!
I thoughjt the same, before the single cooler mod. I thought the regulator's modding will be sacrificing, but at low-mid-high rpms I did not get enough oil pressure with warm 30w oil, if I see the Mazda reference pressure, or the old 10PSI/1000rpm rule. Earlier I red 9krpmrx8's single cooler mod thread, and it was great that he got higher pressure only by the "simplier" oil cooling system.

So I did the "same". Now the pressure is about 10PSI higher at the same rpm, than before with the warm (hot) 0w-30 oil, only by the less restrictive single oil cooling system. The reason for the higher pressure at low rpm could be that the hot 30w is relatively thin, so a part of the oil flow can find way (to drain) between the regulator's piston and cylinder wall (with partly opened regulators). With the less restrictive system this draining back effect is smaller. A thicker oil can decreases this loss too, but as we know it decreases the amount of oil flow too.

So I get higher pressure (more oil) with thinner oil.

Otherwise for the cooler placing scepticals. The oil temps are lower and more stable with this radiator-condenser-oil cooler sandwich vs. factory 2 OC's system. There are much higher and well directed air flow in the middle, than on the two sides. And more good things, when the vents of the radiator are working, its cool the oil cooler too., not like in the factory place.

 

I guess that it could make sense
The fact is that I really have no cooling problems with my oil coolers as my oil temps never exceed 95° even at the track so i see no need for this kind of modification in my application!

 

Dannobre, do you know what size bsp thread the factory sending unit is? I wonder if all oil pressure sending units have the same thread size. I have one off of a Jeep, I am just wondering if I can take that with me to the hose place to see if they can get that adapter.

 

Good job you mentioned that, just switching to an '09 engine and forgot we'll need a higher pressure sender and guage, doh!

 

Cool, what are you using for engine management?

 

We're on a DTA S80 so makes no difference to us really.

 

Please give us pressure datas when you have the new gauge !

 

Will do, still modifying the oils lines and chassis to get the new sump in!

 

Waiting on a new throttle pot, but it idles at about 67psi (0w30)

 

Details please.

 

Details on what?

 

On your latest build Or did I miss something?

 

Nah, just lost compression on the old S1 engine - we had a misfire from knackered leads and pushed the car to finish the event (we were leading our class so thought it was worth it).
Unfortunately when we got it home and it had cooled down it struggled to start and was about 100bhp down on power - had cracked a side seal with the misfires.
Managed to source an S2 engine that was almost brand new, and spent the last month changing all the frame/oil system/electrics/trigger wheel/pulleys, etc, and swapping old parts over to get it to fit.

 

Right, peak oil pressure is 142.6psi when the oil is warm, it'll hit about 154psi on rapid acceleration for the briefest moment, but I think it's just the delay from the valves cracking open.
Oh, and the new engine sings like a choir!

 

So what are you using for engine management?

 

Still on our DTA S80 that we ran on the S1 engine, just altered some of the mapping settings.

 

I really want to go with a S2 engine in my S1

 

The buggy needed a lot more alterations to fit it than we expected!

 

Yeah I have a thread about it, there are many things that would have to be addressed and many things that may or may not work with the S2 renny. I would just love to do it so I could build my 8 NA so that it would last a long time. I'm only at 20k on the mazda rebuild and I have my doubts already. I will be on the dyno after my injectors are serviced and we will see just how healthy my engine is.

 

Nice. So the much higher oil pressure of the S2 Renesis is verified.