O2 sim that works (Mod Edit: read the thread, it doesn't work)
√WWP = ∞²
Joined: May 2008
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I got this code twice under very hard driving. I did a steam clean on my engine and reset my long term fuel trims. I'm sure resetting the long term fuel trims did it. I'll keep everyone posted on if it comes back or not.
Here is a pic of it installed on my car.
The parameters to set a CEL are in the service manuals, has nothing to do with distance, time or gas quality.
It takes a certain number of 'drive cycles' to set a 'pending' code, each one a specific time of cruising, a certain time at 'fully warmed up' etc.
Then a specific number of these drive cycles are required to set the light to on. After another number of cycles the light will turn off, to make room for new codes, but the code is still set in memory.
The ECU can check the O2 sensor if it wants, sends a check of rich/lean pulses and looks for corresponding signal moves. This is why the electrical sims all fail to fool it.
S
It takes a certain number of 'drive cycles' to set a 'pending' code, each one a specific time of cruising, a certain time at 'fully warmed up' etc.
Then a specific number of these drive cycles are required to set the light to on. After another number of cycles the light will turn off, to make room for new codes, but the code is still set in memory.
The ECU can check the O2 sensor if it wants, sends a check of rich/lean pulses and looks for corresponding signal moves. This is why the electrical sims all fail to fool it.
S
Still I have no CEL after over 5,000mi with no bung. Anyone have any insight to this?
kevin@rotaryresurrection
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 61
From: east of Knoxville, TN
still more combinations of hole diameters and spacer thicknesses have not worked for me. After about 1000 miles of experimenting and never going more than 100 miles before a code returned, I got fed up and put the stock cat back on. The main reason i wanted to run a MP was to reduce the cabin heat, which the MP does considerably (when heat wrapped).
But, putting the stock cat back on gets rid of those pesky codes, and also gets rid of the harsh rasp sound at 3800-4300rpm (when used with the stock catback).
In my opinion there is not a lot of power difference...maybe 10hp at most.
But, putting the stock cat back on gets rid of those pesky codes, and also gets rid of the harsh rasp sound at 3800-4300rpm (when used with the stock catback).
In my opinion there is not a lot of power difference...maybe 10hp at most.
still more combinations of hole diameters and spacer thicknesses have not worked for me. After about 1000 miles of experimenting and never going more than 100 miles before a code returned, I got fed up and put the stock cat back on. The main reason i wanted to run a MP was to reduce the cabin heat, which the MP does considerably (when heat wrapped).
But, putting the stock cat back on gets rid of those pesky codes, and also gets rid of the harsh rasp sound at 3800-4300rpm (when used with the stock catback).
In my opinion there is not a lot of power difference...maybe 10hp at most.
But, putting the stock cat back on gets rid of those pesky codes, and also gets rid of the harsh rasp sound at 3800-4300rpm (when used with the stock catback).
In my opinion there is not a lot of power difference...maybe 10hp at most.
its never a bad thing to have control over the fan turn on temps, although i dont think you'd have any problems with the weather back home. Control over the OMP is nice as well, although it MAY still not be adequate for some(and still use premix)
but losing the cat and the extra fuel through the torque band is very very nice, i could care less about the 10hp it makes. the fuel savings will pay for it the AP + the cost of your 'catless' solution in a less than a year.......
of course, i am kinda biased as i see the AP as the best option availible for the forseable future for management, and that is a mandatory thing for me to have come a couple months when i am home again
nope... but a min of $700(for AP and punching out cat) up to $1Kish (if you buy a pipe) is worth it for other reasons.
its never a bad thing to have control over the fan turn on temps, although i dont think you'd have any problems with the weather back home. Control over the OMP is nice as well, although it MAY still not be adequate for some(and still use premix)
but losing the cat and the extra fuel through the torque band is very very nice, i could care less about the 10hp it makes. the fuel savings will pay for it the AP + the cost of your 'catless' solution in a less than a year.......
of course, i am kinda biased as i see the AP as the best option availible for the forseable future for management, and that is a mandatory thing for me to have come a couple months when i am home again
its never a bad thing to have control over the fan turn on temps, although i dont think you'd have any problems with the weather back home. Control over the OMP is nice as well, although it MAY still not be adequate for some(and still use premix)
but losing the cat and the extra fuel through the torque band is very very nice, i could care less about the 10hp it makes. the fuel savings will pay for it the AP + the cost of your 'catless' solution in a less than a year.......
of course, i am kinda biased as i see the AP as the best option availible for the forseable future for management, and that is a mandatory thing for me to have come a couple months when i am home again
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 239
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From: michigan
Thread revival!
I tried this mod with my OBX mid-pipe - 1/2" hole with the O2 threaded into it, then threaded the drilled non-fouler into the undrilled non-fouler, and finally into the test pipe. It didn't take long for the CEL to pop up. There were 4 codes, two of them were that the sensor was responding slowly, and the other two were that the O2 sensor was detecting a lean mix. I haven't tried removing the undrilled non-fouler, since I haven't had time to remove the entire mid-pipe, plus I have a feeling that it wouldn't help.
I tried this mod with my OBX mid-pipe - 1/2" hole with the O2 threaded into it, then threaded the drilled non-fouler into the undrilled non-fouler, and finally into the test pipe. It didn't take long for the CEL to pop up. There were 4 codes, two of them were that the sensor was responding slowly, and the other two were that the O2 sensor was detecting a lean mix. I haven't tried removing the undrilled non-fouler, since I haven't had time to remove the entire mid-pipe, plus I have a feeling that it wouldn't help.
Awesome.
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