O2 sim that works (Mod Edit: read the thread, it doesn't work)
Guys who have SUCCESSFULLY installed these, please explain any mods to Help part along with pictures of location installed. This is critical for the success of everyone prospective of this modification.
Also, were the hondas OBD1 or OBD2 or both?
Also, were the hondas OBD1 or OBD2 or both?
kevin@rotaryresurrection
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 61
From: east of Knoxville, TN
I just installed a midpipe. Used a single fitting drilled as described in the first post. It took exactly 8.9 miles (2 cycles) of city driving for 3 codes to return and set the CEL.
The codes represent "oxygen sensor stuck lean" and "oxygen sensor slow response" so perhaps it is not getting quite enough "dirty" exhaust flow. I will remove the sensor and open the hole in the fitting up just a bit and continue to try it again.
The codes represent "oxygen sensor stuck lean" and "oxygen sensor slow response" so perhaps it is not getting quite enough "dirty" exhaust flow. I will remove the sensor and open the hole in the fitting up just a bit and continue to try it again.
Last edited by RotaryResurrection; Sep 6, 2008 at 02:23 PM.
kevin@rotaryresurrection
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 61
From: east of Knoxville, TN
great for you, sucks for the rest of us.
I drilled mine out to a little over half an inch and tried it again. Took about 11 miles of city driving to light the CEL and give 2 codes this time, both for "slow response" again.
I drilled mine out to a little over half an inch and tried it again. Took about 11 miles of city driving to light the CEL and give 2 codes this time, both for "slow response" again.
kevin@rotaryresurrection
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 61
From: east of Knoxville, TN
I think as more people try this and we get more results, it will be found that at best, it could be said this works "for some of the rx8s with midpipes, but not for others" and at worst it works "for a few of the rx8s with midpipes, but not for most".
So I tried a 9/16 hole in my fitting and still got the codes. So that means on my car, I have tried fittings with holes of 31/64, 1/2, and 9/16, and NONE of them worked for more than 10 miles before giving "slow response" codes.
So I figured I need more "dirty" air getting to the sensor. However, i cannot drill much more out of my fitting, because I will be getting into the outside threads if I try.
I tried threading the sensor into the bung on the midpipe with no fitting in between, but I did put 2 extra crush washers there to space it out from the pipe about 3/16". I was able to put about 100 miles on it (3 or 4 drive cycles) before the codes returned, and this time it was "inefficient catalyst"...which means TOO MUCH dirty air is getting to the sensor now. I may try it again with another washer, if the sensor will still thread in. Or I may weld on an additional sensor bung, over the existing one in the pipe and go from there.
So I tried a 9/16 hole in my fitting and still got the codes. So that means on my car, I have tried fittings with holes of 31/64, 1/2, and 9/16, and NONE of them worked for more than 10 miles before giving "slow response" codes.
So I figured I need more "dirty" air getting to the sensor. However, i cannot drill much more out of my fitting, because I will be getting into the outside threads if I try.
I tried threading the sensor into the bung on the midpipe with no fitting in between, but I did put 2 extra crush washers there to space it out from the pipe about 3/16". I was able to put about 100 miles on it (3 or 4 drive cycles) before the codes returned, and this time it was "inefficient catalyst"...which means TOO MUCH dirty air is getting to the sensor now. I may try it again with another washer, if the sensor will still thread in. Or I may weld on an additional sensor bung, over the existing one in the pipe and go from there.
my car is completely stock other than the cat and resonator being removed with 2.5" pipe in its place, put the help part in, and kept it at the same angle as it was in the cat, no code after 70 miles..... car sounds like a rotary now lol.... I used a 1/2" drill bit and it looks like you can barely see a gap in between the sensor and the non-fouler, but I think that is why it works so well....
main reason I did mine is the cat was clogged, and was losing lots of power.... car feels great now, and drives perfect..... just a little raspy with the stock muffler.... may change that later
car is a 2004 in case that makes a difference
main reason I did mine is the cat was clogged, and was losing lots of power.... car feels great now, and drives perfect..... just a little raspy with the stock muffler.... may change that later
car is a 2004 in case that makes a difference
I had the local exhaust wiz do it, he works inside a muffler bros locally, not giving out the location so he doesnt get into any trouble.... but he does really good work.... the pipe just has that slight bend like the cat does, and the 02 sensor is mounted just below the middle of the side of the pipe, exactly how the 02 sensor went into the cat.... I have a spare non fouler if anyone wants it, it looks just like the one I installed....just pay the shipping +$2 for the cost of the part I will get under the car tonight and take a picture of my mid-pipe to show you guys how it looks.....
If your cat was clogged, you probably could just have gutted it, no? Then it would still look like a cat (for visual inspections). What happens to the resonator -- does it get destroyed too when gutting a cat?
lol sure I could have just gutted... but I dropped the weight by quite a bit removing the cat and resonator.... the only thing the cops look for around here is to see that you have a muffler on the car.... when I had a srt-4 it was hard to explain to the cops that I didnt have a muffler stock...


