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Not starting (NOT flooded) and few random Q's

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Old May 14, 2009 | 03:13 PM
  #1  
EvilLost's Avatar
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Exclamation Not starting (NOT flooded) and few random Q's

So here's hoping some pros on here can help me out...I have never worked on my car before but I am a very technically inclined person so feel free to hit me with it

I have an 04 MT RX-8 with 56k miles on it.

As of yesterday, the car won't start. I am 99% sure it is not flooded as I have had those issues before and know the fix; it hasnt' worked. Also, last time I was at the dealer to get all sorts of work done, he said my plugs needed to be changed (about 1k miles ago) so I'm *guessing* its the plugs..

the car cranks but doesn't start. I have tried typical deflooding procedures with no go, but I'm unsure where to go from here. In terms of deflooding, I have just tried cranking/etc I have not pulled out the plugs (which I guess I'll have to do anyway) but i am *REALLY* sure the car is not flooded so..

My questions...
a) Can I troubleshoot this further on my own without paying for diagnostics somewhere?
b) I've seen the very good DIY on replacing the spark plugs and hope to do that...where would you guys recommend I buy plugs from? Any particular type? Note: the current plugs in the car are the original ones from when i purchased the car, they have never been changed
c) my rear lights both build up condensation in them (the plastic covers that is), is this something I can fix myself? Dealer quoted me $640 for the fix which I think is absurd.
d) my rear driver side brake light has burned out and I just need to buy a new one to replace as well...is there any recommended site that I can purchase my plugs+bulb+maybe something to fix my condensation issue all at once?
e) CAN I fix this on my own? I have all forms of basic tools, but I don't have any "specialized" car tools of any kind


I've checked the DIY forum for spark plug removal and it looks like that is doable on my own. The PDF of the service manual is also very handy for fixing my burnt out light, but as for the condensation issue I have no idea where to go. And most importantly, I have no idea where/what to buy my parts as the dealer prices are ridiculous ($350 for plugs? $640 for plastic pieces to fix the condensation...)

Early Thanks to all the knowledgable and helpful people on these boards!

Mani
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Old May 14, 2009 | 04:48 PM
  #2  
04RX8man's Avatar
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yes I would recommend relacing the plugs and coils sounds like there is a problem there especially if u were told the plugs were bad...plugs I've found that advance auto parts have them for 20 bucks a piece NGK ONLY do not get anything else(in my opinion) for coils finishlineperformance.com or onlinemazdaparts.com......

can also buy plugs from the above sites but more expensive than advance.....
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Old May 14, 2009 | 08:25 PM
  #3  
rx8cited's Avatar
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From: DC Metro Area, USA
Originally Posted by 04RX8man
....plugs I've found that advance auto parts have them for 20 bucks a piece NGK ...
Do you have the plug part numbers that you bought from AA?
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Old May 15, 2009 | 05:34 PM
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EvilLost's Avatar
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so I ended up towing it to the dealer...they told me there was a service bulletin out on the plugs and they replaced them for me FREE :D!

However, they are saying I need new Coils which will run me $250 and new *Spark Plug WIRES* at $100?? The coils I'm ok with but wires for $100...this sounds a little shady to me can anyone clarify?
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Old May 15, 2009 | 06:07 PM
  #5  
rled's Avatar
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From: Tennessee
Try Advance auto parts for the wires, although i doubt your wires are shot. You can change the plugs, wires and coils yourself if you are even a little competent in auto mechanics. There are threads on here of how to do it. The best way to fix your tail light problem is to go down to Mazda and get yourself a new gasket. It's ridiculously expensive. I think I paid close to 50 bucks. Anyway, find the how to in this forum and once you get the tail light assembly out , clean around where the gasket contacts the body panel with alcohol.Then run a small bead of clear silicone along the top where the gasket contacts the body. Reinstall the light . Problem solved.The cause of the water problem was that the oem gasket was too thin. Water runs down the trunk lid valley bringing dirt and grit with it. It eventually works under the gasket and lets water in. I did both my tail lights this way. I have had no condensation or water since. Do not drill holes in the bottom of your expensive tail lights. Good luck

Last edited by rled; May 15, 2009 at 06:09 PM.
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Old May 16, 2009 | 03:05 PM
  #6  
shadycrew31's Avatar
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you can do all of the above mechanics on your own in under 2 hours.

However I think you should get the dealer to check the compression...

A friend of mine thought his 8 was flooded we did every deflooding procedure under the sun starting with 8 procedures then giving up and trying some old school stuff.

However after 3 hours of that we gave up he gave in and brought it in his apex seals were bad causing the same issues you'd find in a flooded engine.
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