No spark or when trying to start.
04-17-2009, 07:48 AM
#26
Just found this thread...
The tach will not jump under cranking. Anyone that has flooded badly will tell you the same, cause when that rpm gauge starts to flutter, you've got that thing almost started!!
With the reflash questions, I'm pretty sure that is correct they mazda should reflash you free of charge. I'm not certain though.
Your A/C question: Yeah... with the A/C on, it does put quite a load on the engine and will cause the rpms to drop.
The stalling could be a lot of different things. My car was stalling at idle all of the time due to my SSV in the lower intake being stuck closed which cut all air flow to the engine off at idle...
But you gotta figure its either not getting air, fuel, or spark.... work your way back.
The tach will not jump under cranking. Anyone that has flooded badly will tell you the same, cause when that rpm gauge starts to flutter, you've got that thing almost started!!
With the reflash questions, I'm pretty sure that is correct they mazda should reflash you free of charge. I'm not certain though.
Your A/C question: Yeah... with the A/C on, it does put quite a load on the engine and will cause the rpms to drop.
The stalling could be a lot of different things. My car was stalling at idle all of the time due to my SSV in the lower intake being stuck closed which cut all air flow to the engine off at idle...
But you gotta figure its either not getting air, fuel, or spark.... work your way back.
04-17-2009, 12:40 PM
#28
Certified Mazda Tech
Yea i'd clear NVRAM (20 brake pushes within 5 seconds of turning key to "ON" (not run) position).
Glad our diagnostics were effective, congrats on fixing the problem as you did that yourself.
As for the stalling at stoplights, quick question to rule out something i wont mention yet.
Start the car and allow it to warm up and turn all electrical or other loads off (so nothing is effecting the engine rpm)
Now free rev, in neutral while not moving, to about 4k quickly and immediately let off the throttle.
Watch the tach needle closely as it drops.
At roughly 1375rpm (directly between the 1500 and 1250rpm dashes on your tach) you should notice an abrupt change in speed of the tach needle (it'll literally slow to about half speed).
Let me know if you notice this change of speed at 1375rpm or at a different rpm or not at all.
also vyndictive: i still forgot to check but im pretty sure it moves when cranking as the OP eventually stated, because like you said, when the car is flooded and "about to start" the needle moves, about to start would mean its still cranking, unless i've simply misunderstood your post.
keep us informed.
kevin.
Glad our diagnostics were effective, congrats on fixing the problem as you did that yourself.
As for the stalling at stoplights, quick question to rule out something i wont mention yet.
Start the car and allow it to warm up and turn all electrical or other loads off (so nothing is effecting the engine rpm)
Now free rev, in neutral while not moving, to about 4k quickly and immediately let off the throttle.
Watch the tach needle closely as it drops.
At roughly 1375rpm (directly between the 1500 and 1250rpm dashes on your tach) you should notice an abrupt change in speed of the tach needle (it'll literally slow to about half speed).
Let me know if you notice this change of speed at 1375rpm or at a different rpm or not at all.
also vyndictive: i still forgot to check but im pretty sure it moves when cranking as the OP eventually stated, because like you said, when the car is flooded and "about to start" the needle moves, about to start would mean its still cranking, unless i've simply misunderstood your post.
keep us informed.
kevin.
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