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New engine break in and conversion to 5W30

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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 07:24 PM
  #1  
WickedWitch's Avatar
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New engine break in and conversion to 5W30

So I got a new engine and of course they put 5W20 in it. I was just wondering how long I should wait to convert to 5W30 like around 500 miles or more or less. I converted my old engine the day I bought it, but should I atleast wait 500 or so miles to let the seals on the rotors set? Also wanted to know what the proper break in for these engines are since I bought mine with alot of miles on it. Should I drive it like I did my old engine (i.e. redlining once a day etc)? Or should I just do normal drinving and shifting for the first 1000 miles?
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 07:32 PM
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If you want your replacement engine to last long, You need at LEAST 5w30.
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 07:34 PM
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i have to switch mine to 5w30 soon
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 07:37 PM
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I know it needs 5W30 I just wanted to know if I should change it immediatley or wait about 500 miles.
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 07:57 PM
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You converted your old engine the day you bought it and it still failed? Hmmm.
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 08:05 PM
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It didn't have anything to do with the oil it was something wrong with the rotor housings, and it didn't fail they replaced it for pre-cautionary reasons so it would be covered under warranty.
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 08:08 PM
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Oh really? Haha, ok. Sounds like they are taking care of you so that is good.
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by WickedWitch
I know it needs 5W30 I just wanted to know if I should change it immediatley or wait about 500 miles.
How long will it take you to reach 500 Miles? If you will hit that in less than a month then waiting that long is not a big deal. After a 'new' engine is installed I would like to have the oil & filter changed within 2 weeks.
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by expo1
How long will it take you to reach 500 Miles? If you will hit that in less than a month then waiting that long is not a big deal. After a 'new' engine is installed I would like to have the oil & filter changed within 2 weeks.
Me too...I'd give it a week or two and then change the oil and filter.....
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 09:11 PM
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you better change it now or your going to throw a rod!!!! oh wait.......we dont' have those things....anyway all jokes aside swictch it over witin the next few weeks whenever u get a change it's not a catastropic failure if you don't do it tomorrow...
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 09:28 PM
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Ok thanks! Also I know alot of people use castrol on here but is pennzoil 5W30 also a good oil to use. I know they are all about the same but just wanted to get some thought on that. Also whats the best way to break in the new engine? Should I go easy on it or should I drive it like I normally would?
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 09:34 PM
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The tips on http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda4.htm are about as good as anything I can think of. Castrol is a fine oil to use. I personally use Royal Purple 5w30 Synthetic. I will be switching to 10w40 RP once my supply is gone.

Last edited by expo1; Nov 30, 2008 at 09:17 AM.
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 09:09 AM
  #13  
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EXPO thanks for the link RB hat alot of good tips!
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 09:43 AM
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I used pennzoil once when i first got it seemed to work fine it's all basically personal preference now I use Castrol 5w30 but have used Valvoline also and like both of those.....

and for breaking it in alot of ppl have different opionoins on breaking it in but I say that you need to take it easy....do not redline and don't stay at a constant RPM for a long period of time do this for about 2kmiles and then let her rip you're good to go
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 08:26 AM
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My RX-8 have been filled with 5w30 since it was new in 2004, but my compression failed anyhow. So wouldnt worry to much about when to change over.

5w30 is standard on the Norwegian version of this car.
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by lomnex
My RX-8 have been filled with 5w30 since it was new in 2004, but my compression failed anyhow. So wouldnt worry to much about when to change over.

5w30 is standard on the Norwegian version of this car.
Your engine failed because :

1. Mazda underestimated the OMP rate.
2. Mazda underestimated the area that needs to be lube.
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 03:46 PM
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my 04 needs a new engine because rotor 2 was misfiring....its under warranty so i dont have to pay a dime which is nice but i was curious to see if any body knew what the warranty is on the motor on the cars?? and i got a letter in the mail saying i had to sign up for it...what was that warranty? i threw it out cuz i was going to tune it, im glad i didnt yet ha.
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by renesisking
... any body knew what the warranty is on the motor on the cars?? and i got a letter in the mail saying i had to sign up for it...what was that warranty? i threw it out cuz ...
Engine internal parts are guaranteed for 8 years, 100,000 miles. Driveline 5 years, 60,000 miles. Bumper-to-bumper 4 years, 50,000 (or is it 48,000?).

You don't need to sign up for it. You should have gotten letters from Mazda explaining the extended warrantees, along with pages to add to your manual, but it applies automatically. If what you threw away said you needed to sign up, it would have been junk mail from a third party warranty con outfit.

Ken
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ken-x8
Engine internal parts are guaranteed for 8 years, 100,000 miles. Driveline 5 years, 60,000 miles. Bumper-to-bumper 4 years, 50,000 (or is it 48,000?).

You don't need to sign up for it. You should have gotten letters from Mazda explaining the extended warrantees, along with pages to add to your manual, but it applies automatically. If what you threw away said you needed to sign up, it would have been junk mail from a third party warranty con outfit.

Ken
Its 50,000. For a while I thought its 48 too
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 05:13 PM
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thanks a lot guys! i guess i dont have too much to worry about
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 05:18 PM
  #21  
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Premix=longer lasting engine(I Hope)
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 01:27 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by nycgps
Your engine failed because :

1. Mazda underestimated the OMP rate.

Is this only on the 2004 cars?

2. Mazda underestimated the area that needs to be lube.
So, how does one compensate and avoid these issues?
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 02:03 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by PeteInLongBeach
So, how does one compensate and avoid these issues?

the 04s were the primary victims..

the flashes continued to add oil over the years.. it is hit and miss on what year won and lost..

beers
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 02:06 AM
  #24  
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From: socal
Originally Posted by PeteInLongBeach
So, how does one compensate and avoid these issues?
premix
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