maverick02

My old one tore up pretty badly and didn't appear it could be rewelded properly.. here are pics of my just received C revision of the pedal.. same crappy spot welds.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

hmm ... it seems like they made some updates to the pedal. Its still crap tho.

are you gonna add some extra welds to it ?

heyarnold69

iTrader: (1)

interesting. maybe a few re-enforced welds and she'll be good to go ...

maverick02

What differences do you notice? I will add welds, but I just installed it for now so i can least drive again until I get a welder to look at it.

maverick02

By the way, for anyone who also needs to replace their clutch pedal, the part number you're looking for is either FE1541300C (standard black pedal pad) or FE0541300C (aluminum racing pad). Both pedals have the exact same construction.. the only difference is in the pedal pad, which can be removed fairly easily. Therefore, you can order standard pad, remove it, remove the alum pad from the broken pedal, and affix it to the new pedal, saving you about 50 bucks (130 vs 180 or so if you get it from Jason Baggie of onlinemazdaparts.com).

Gripen

iTrader: (2)

Speaking of pedal pads, I removed my clutch pedal pad earlier tonight for cleaning. It was fairly easy to get off. Putting it back on, though, was a PITFA. Hell, after fighting it for an hour with it chewing up my fingers I called it quits. Got three out of four sides on. Can't seem to get the last side on. It's a very tight fit. Any pointers?

maverick02

Yes, it can be a bit of a pain to get it back on, but I found that putting on the narrow side first (also can be referred to as the bottom) is the only way that worked for me, as counterintuitive as that may sound. Keep your hand on the bottom of the pad, holding it firmly against the pedal assembly, and with a large flathead screwdriver, try to slide it under the pad of one side and pulling it over the pedal. Then work on the corner of the same side, trying to pull the corner of the pad over the pedal. Repeat for the other side. Once you have the top corners and the sides pulled over, you can work the pad with your hand to get the top part in place and any other part of the pad that isn't completely pulled over. If you're still not succeeding, try adding a little grease. Finally, you can also try putting the pedal assembly in the freezer while simultaneously leaving the pad out in the sun. The metal will contract in the freezer a slight bit, while the pad rubber will be a little more elastic. I was prepared to do all of the above if necessary, but I was able to get the pad back fairly easily once I worked the pad from the bottom up. Hope this helps!

Gripen

iTrader: (2)

Much appreciated!

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Im not 100% sure but it seems a bit different on the side(compare to mine) I could be wrong tho.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

The 'C' is just a vendor part number change; no significant structural differences from prior.

Still best to proactively weld and/or install the reinforcing bracket.