New Clutch Kit
New Clutch Kit
I need to get a new clutch kit for my '07 GT and was wondering which I should choose. There's the MITSUKO HD kit for 100$ or the EXEDY PRO kit for 300$. I don't plan to do any major upgrades; maybe a new exhaust and intake...
Any thoughts on which I should choose?
Any thoughts on which I should choose?
not really bigger, different disk materials. higher pressure plate clamping forces. to be honest i used take off stock clutch will handle everything you can give it short of FI.
beers
beers
Make sure you get the flywheel reserficed right and be ready for the 54mm nut holding it on. One other thing there is a pilot bearing seal that goes in after the pilot bearing make sure you get one and put it in. I had to go to the dealer to get one.
Last edited by niteshade247; Dec 14, 2014 at 12:50 AM.
i would go OEM; clutch ratings are all about torque output, which an N/A rotary is pretty low in terms of torque. Unless your planning on boosting, no point on going higher clamping force (worse for DD scenarios, chatter, stiffer, more sensitive engagement etc).
at most i would do the auto counterweight/aftermarket lightweight flywheel combo with OEM clutch.
i know its not the same, but i had a boosted (jackson racing modified roots type SC) RSX 5 speed with stock clutch (boosted at 7psi for 50k miles daily driver for 12 years) and that cars' OEM clutch was rated at 190lb/ft or so (motor rated at 160hp/140tq) and between the first 50k N/A unmodified, next 50k SC'd, and the rest of its life back to N/A, clutch was still ok at 267k miles, when a spiderweb crack in the aluminum oil pan popped out a piece of the oil pan, leading to no oil/oil pressure almost instantly, and the motor died violently). Dyno from SC install/test/tune said i put 201lb/ft down, and for the blown 50k that clutch did smell a time or two, but never went out, and lasted another 167k of normal DD driving.
my TT 300ZX i went through 2 exedy clutches and 1 of some other brand that were all supposed to be higher performance; endless headaches, pain to drive, noisy, chatter, etc. im on my 3rd exedy in 20k miles with it and not happy.
at most i would do the auto counterweight/aftermarket lightweight flywheel combo with OEM clutch.
i know its not the same, but i had a boosted (jackson racing modified roots type SC) RSX 5 speed with stock clutch (boosted at 7psi for 50k miles daily driver for 12 years) and that cars' OEM clutch was rated at 190lb/ft or so (motor rated at 160hp/140tq) and between the first 50k N/A unmodified, next 50k SC'd, and the rest of its life back to N/A, clutch was still ok at 267k miles, when a spiderweb crack in the aluminum oil pan popped out a piece of the oil pan, leading to no oil/oil pressure almost instantly, and the motor died violently). Dyno from SC install/test/tune said i put 201lb/ft down, and for the blown 50k that clutch did smell a time or two, but never went out, and lasted another 167k of normal DD driving.
my TT 300ZX i went through 2 exedy clutches and 1 of some other brand that were all supposed to be higher performance; endless headaches, pain to drive, noisy, chatter, etc. im on my 3rd exedy in 20k miles with it and not happy.
Just got my new Exedy clutch kit. I know my clutch disk was replaced during a reman. install 40000 miles ago. Would it be ok to just resurface the existing flywheel? Car has 100000 miles.
Yes, but it cannot be resurfaced on a lathe, it needs to be done on a specific type of machine where the stone cutters rotate as well as the flywheel.
Don't forget to adjust the preload/freeplay of the clutch pedal, done by adjusting the clutch master cylinder push rod.
A new spigot bearing and seal are also required.
Don't forget to adjust the preload/freeplay of the clutch pedal, done by adjusting the clutch master cylinder push rod.
A new spigot bearing and seal are also required.
Last edited by CRO8TIA; Jan 8, 2015 at 12:24 PM.
Hey guys, sorry to bring up an old thread but I was wondering before I replace the clutch in my 07 GT, what else should I be replacing/fixing?
I know I need to resurface flywheel and probably should replace transmission seal... Does anyone know anything about a rear main seal? or pilot bearing seal? or spigot bearing/seal?
Any information would be greatly appreciated.
I know I need to resurface flywheel and probably should replace transmission seal... Does anyone know anything about a rear main seal? or pilot bearing seal? or spigot bearing/seal?
Any information would be greatly appreciated.
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