My sneaky plan to extend engine life for Series I
02-02-2010, 09:31 PM
#26
Nature vs. Nurture
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Racing Beat says the first fan comes on at 207 degrees F. I was in a traffic jam going 10-15 mph. The fan musta kicked on there because the water temp would go up and down, up and down in that exact range. It was around 0 degrees F that day.
Longpath, how much oil do you use? I use very little. Like you, I have no stickers to prove any recalls - just the mazda doc. I am thinking either the flash didn't take or they didn't actually do it.
Longpath, how much oil do you use? I use very little. Like you, I have no stickers to prove any recalls - just the mazda doc. I am thinking either the flash didn't take or they didn't actually do it.
Last edited by ganseg; 02-03-2010 at 10:10 PM.
02-03-2010, 05:31 AM
#27
Anyone who cares to test it for us, it should be easy. I was in a traffic jam going 10-15 mph. The fan musta kicked on around 210 because the water temp would go up and down, up and down in that exact range. It was around 0 degrees F that day.
Longpath, how much oil do you use? I use very little. Like you, I have no stickers to prove any recalls - just the mazda doc. I am thinking either the flash didn't take or they didn't actually do it.
Longpath, how much oil do you use? I use very little. Like you, I have no stickers to prove any recalls - just the mazda doc. I am thinking either the flash didn't take or they didn't actually do it.
02-03-2010, 06:57 AM
#28
@Brettus: Bearing wear is a problem for who does a lot of short trips, it's a common issue here but the problem is that a higher oil pressure will not specifically address this issue.
Replacing the thermal pellet in the e-shaft and eventually the e-shaft nozzles (i've never done this) would help. The problem is that the first needs to remove the engine, the second one can only be done while rebuilding the engine.
To the OP: i agree with many of your points but would stick with a lower grade oil (10w40) for a good year-round protection, 15w and up are ok for hot climates during summer and track days though
Replacing the thermal pellet in the e-shaft and eventually the e-shaft nozzles (i've never done this) would help. The problem is that the first needs to remove the engine, the second one can only be done while rebuilding the engine.
To the OP: i agree with many of your points but would stick with a lower grade oil (10w40) for a good year-round protection, 15w and up are ok for hot climates during summer and track days though
02-03-2010, 10:45 AM
#29
@Brettus: Bearing wear is a problem for who does a lot of short trips, it's a common issue here but the problem is that a higher oil pressure will not specifically address this issue.
Replacing the thermal pellet in the e-shaft and eventually the e-shaft nozzles (i've never done this) would help. The problem is that the first needs to remove the engine, the second one can only be done while rebuilding the engine.
To the OP: i agree with many of your points but would stick with a lower grade oil (10w40) for a good year-round protection, 15w and up are ok for hot climates during summer and track days though
Replacing the thermal pellet in the e-shaft and eventually the e-shaft nozzles (i've never done this) would help. The problem is that the first needs to remove the engine, the second one can only be done while rebuilding the engine.
To the OP: i agree with many of your points but would stick with a lower grade oil (10w40) for a good year-round protection, 15w and up are ok for hot climates during summer and track days though
I don't disagree with what you say about 10W-40 vs 15W-40, but the choice depends on one's individual circumstance. I like the "diesel" wear additives and would prefer a 10W-40 diesel oil, but didn't see any available. Additionally, the "stealth mode" leaves me with some 5W-20 left in the system which will lighten the 15W-40 to some degree anyway.
02-03-2010, 10:56 AM
#30
The higher oil pressure will help for sure, mostly WHEN the pellet is open. From my little experience i can say that the pellet mod should come first albeit it may be hard to do for us who only do short trips.
I didn't think about your "stealth" flushing mode either so yeah 15w40 may be fine but it is always better to specify since there are guys that simply don't care about the dealers and do their own maintenance all the time, without the 5w20 flush
I didn't think about your "stealth" flushing mode either so yeah 15w40 may be fine but it is always better to specify since there are guys that simply don't care about the dealers and do their own maintenance all the time, without the 5w20 flush
02-03-2010, 11:17 AM
#31
Thanks for the comments so far! I edited the original post to incorporate some of the feedback in an attempt to make it one-stop-shopping for those who don't have time or inclination to wade through the 100's of posts on this general topic. One additional point is that what makes sense for me with a 12k mile engine, won't necessarily make sense for someone with a 120k engine. Another strategy for those who fall under the 8yr/100k mile warranty is to keep everything dead stock and dealer maintained, run the crap out of the car and hope the engine blows before the warranty is over. (As a certifiable gearhead though, I find that sooo wrong!) It's also important to note too that we in general don't have the resources to definitively determine if any of these measures work. Here in Michigan, for example, it's quite common to see 3 identical-appearing (and usually dirty) cars with manufacturer's plates running in trail together down the highway. It's clear they're testing something and comparing one variation in one car against another: identical running conditions, single variable, and a teardown at the conclusion of the test. Our "tests" are quite crude by comparison, having the luxury of many cars in the test, but each operating under different conditions. Still, some areas of general consensus exist and have a good change of being right.
02-03-2010, 11:44 AM
#32
You may want to limit your cold revs to 3500\4000, 5000 is still a bit high imho.
Also adding what "fresh" means for at least the spark plugs. They're used a bit more than in a conventional engine and with higher average temperatures in many cases, i usually recommend changing them every 30.000km or less but that's because of the aforementioned short trips in stop and go traffic that tend to foul them. I think that 30.000miles is a good mark considering your average driving habits.
Also adding what "fresh" means for at least the spark plugs. They're used a bit more than in a conventional engine and with higher average temperatures in many cases, i usually recommend changing them every 30.000km or less but that's because of the aforementioned short trips in stop and go traffic that tend to foul them. I think that 30.000miles is a good mark considering your average driving habits.
02-03-2010, 12:56 PM
#33
Nature vs. Nurture
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I have found Rotella T conventional oil in 10W30 and 10W40 weights. I have not driven 2,000 miles on it yet to have it tested, so I don't know if it will have the higher Zinc and Phosphorus that I am looking for. I want to change at 2,000 miles because I only get 75% of the oil out when i change it and because i am getting lottsa condensation this winter.
Re: gauges - would just an oil temp gauge suffice? If so what temp would be the alarm? I don't want to put two or three gauges in my car.
Thanks for this thread!
Re: gauges - would just an oil temp gauge suffice? If so what temp would be the alarm? I don't want to put two or three gauges in my car.
Thanks for this thread!
02-03-2010, 05:58 PM
#38
Measuring the e-shaft play washers before and after is a good idea, not a must but you never know.
Anyway i think that the whole thread should be taken with a grain of salt, meaning that this is a big synthesis of a lot of discussions, some of which definitely still need more tests to be proven effective etc, a good synthesis none the less because works as a starting point for somebody new for the car. I feel that an exhaustive read on each point is still needed though to make good informed decisions
02-04-2010, 11:21 AM
#39
It's not really a major surgery, it's just that bolt that is locked very hard and you really need some space and a good leverage (or an impact gun) and a flame torch too in some cases.. Measuring the e-shaft play washers before and after is a good idea, not a must but you never know.
Anyway i think that the whole thread should be taken with a grain of salt, meaning that this is a big synthesis of a lot of discussions, some of which definitely still need more tests to be proven effective etc, a good synthesis none the less because works as a starting point for somebody new for the car. I feel that an exhaustive read on each point is still needed though to make good informed decisions
02-04-2010, 11:37 AM
#40
SARX Legend
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I concur.
After doing all this, my third engines goes then I will throw up my hands because I have done just about everything possible to insure the longevity of this engine. But doing these things does make me feel better.
After doing all this, my third engines goes then I will throw up my hands because I have done just about everything possible to insure the longevity of this engine. But doing these things does make me feel better.
02-04-2010, 04:08 PM
#43
I'm not a fan of a decarb just for the sake of it , there is the possibility of dislodging carbon to get into seal grooves and make matters worse . Sure if you are low on compression do it and see if it revived your engine . Otherwise I would leave well enough alone ....
02-04-2010, 08:10 PM
#44
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
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Coolant flush when you are supposed to do so..........at least every two years?
I know a lot of people who never do no matter what the type of vehicle!
I know a lot of people who never do no matter what the type of vehicle!
02-09-2010, 10:21 AM
#45
None of my suggestions replace any other normal maintenance items. Based on feedback, I did add a couple of new items:
[x1] [Install an oil catch-can in the line between the crankcase vent and the intake manifold. Oil gunk has been reported as coming along this line and gumming up the intake system.]
[x2] [Do the e-pellet mod to eliminate that bypass in the oil system. (This requires a little more "mechanic-ing" than the other mods mentioned above.)]
Quite a few people have reported problems with the intake manifold rotating valves getting jammed, and '04 and '05 cars, where the vent lines feed upstream of the MAF sensor, have problems there too.
This is getting to be a depressingly-long list! YMMV, so do a "search" for details on the various items for further info and make your own decisions based on your own situation.
[x1] [Install an oil catch-can in the line between the crankcase vent and the intake manifold. Oil gunk has been reported as coming along this line and gumming up the intake system.]
[x2] [Do the e-pellet mod to eliminate that bypass in the oil system. (This requires a little more "mechanic-ing" than the other mods mentioned above.)]
Quite a few people have reported problems with the intake manifold rotating valves getting jammed, and '04 and '05 cars, where the vent lines feed upstream of the MAF sensor, have problems there too.
This is getting to be a depressingly-long list! YMMV, so do a "search" for details on the various items for further info and make your own decisions based on your own situation.
03-23-2010, 06:49 AM
#48
I'm mostly concerned about carbon buildup. With MSP-16 injecting more oil and the choice to use premix, isn't a natural consequence that carbon buildup might become an even bigger potential issue for owners? Especially considering Mazmart's observation that the majority of renesis engine deaths were due not to oil lubrication issues but rather to carbon buildup (i.e., carbon buildup killed the engine before inadequate oil lube did).
Like Brettus in post #43 above, I'm hesitant to use decarb. So the only other recourse we have is to burn out carbon deposits by driving regularly at high rpms or redline?
Has Mazmart or any other people who have taken engines apart noticed an increase in engine deaths due to carbon buildup in engines on premix and MSP-16?
Any advice for owners?
Like Brettus in post #43 above, I'm hesitant to use decarb. So the only other recourse we have is to burn out carbon deposits by driving regularly at high rpms or redline?
Has Mazmart or any other people who have taken engines apart noticed an increase in engine deaths due to carbon buildup in engines on premix and MSP-16?
Any advice for owners?
03-23-2010, 07:42 AM
#49
Actually adding some oil reduces the carbon buildup. Haven't you noticed that most of the time the rotor tips are cleaner where the oil nozzles are?
That happens with crappy engine oil (like dexelia), a properly designed 2 stroke engine oil will furtherly reduce that kind of deposit.
That happens with crappy engine oil (like dexelia), a properly designed 2 stroke engine oil will furtherly reduce that kind of deposit.
03-23-2010, 08:00 AM
#50
bse50, I see what you're saying as I've just found the following (as well as other posts around the vicinity) in the MMO Caution thread:
It's only serious if your engine fails.
Notice BDC is only talking about premix, not any other kind of other additive. I wouldn't add anything on a regular basis that would harm oil films. As for UCL or FP+ or MMO, the real question IMHO is whether there is such a thing as a lubricious cleaner? 2-stroke itself seems to be lubricious cleaner, better than dirty 4-stroke. And most 2-stroke oils have cleaning/lubricity additives already, the same that's in Lucas UCL so we're told (polybutene), so would it help to add a little more? Polybutene, cyclohexanone, I always hated Chemistry.
Notice BDC is only talking about premix, not any other kind of other additive. I wouldn't add anything on a regular basis that would harm oil films. As for UCL or FP+ or MMO, the real question IMHO is whether there is such a thing as a lubricious cleaner? 2-stroke itself seems to be lubricious cleaner, better than dirty 4-stroke. And most 2-stroke oils have cleaning/lubricity additives already, the same that's in Lucas UCL so we're told (polybutene), so would it help to add a little more? Polybutene, cyclohexanone, I always hated Chemistry.
Last edited by ArXate; 03-23-2010 at 08:46 AM.