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Pictures! got some of the cleaned rotors (blasted with walnut shells), and while they are not shiny in jcb's pictures, they are clean... then the resurfaced housings, a bit of edge wear, like I mentioned previously.
clean Doritos still some discoloration, but whatever, the carbon and other deposits are gone... a little bit of wear shiny...
also, I have not done any research on this one, but what are people's opinions on painting the irons/housings. You don't really see them when it is all together, but the prospect of a shiny engine that I will only see when I change spark plugs is pretty appealing, but the effort required is not.
Also, I got myself a Flex-a-Lite 420 fan shroud to go along with my S2 radiator that is in the mail. I plan on using the Flex a Lite fan controller with their temp sensor that screws into the upper radiator hose. I just looked and the 490 fans that pull 500 more CFM (3k insted of 2.5k) are $70 cheaper on Amazon.
Last edited by AMDguy; 02-10-2020 at 07:28 PM.
Reason: forgot stuff...
In addition to replacing the radiator and fan shroud, I am also straightening the fins on my oil coolers (I could not swallow the price of new ones, and mine are turning out alright), and installing new lines.
Don't think this helped with my heat problems... I have finished just the top 2 rows close up...
As for the lines, mine are not in terrible condition, and I could probably reinstall them without any problems, but there is definitely some rust, and one of the lines (front cover to driver side cooler) was already replaced, and is leaking (just a really slow drip). I choked when I saw the price on the Mishimoto stainless lines are $400, so I bought some cheap braided stainless hose off amazon, and some cheap banjo fittings off ebay (the quality actually seems decent), all for less than $200. If I have some time, I might do a DIY on that...
also, I have not done any research on this one, but what are people's opinions on painting the irons/housings. .
The apex seals will scrape the paint off on first startup
Seriously though ...... those old housings will make initial startups a real pia . jcbrx8 used housings in similar condition and could barely start it initially . With a few thousand miles on it though ....seems to be ok.
I have gathered that from the reading I have done... I have an 06, so my starter, while not S2 strong, is pretty good, and a brand new Optima red top battery right before it died. If the budget has room left over, then I might spring for an S2 starter...
Got the Flex a Lite 420 in, along with the S2 Duralast radiator from Autozone. here are some pics...
perfect fit!
even came with rubber to seal gaps... very impressed with quality.
one thing that I noticed almost right away is that the mounting holes did not line up perfectly. I am sure there is some sort of kit sold somewhere, but I was too cheap to get that, and too lazy to research it, so this worked perfectly...
if you have a really sharp eye, you might notice that the shroud is a bit ****-eyed on the rad. I did that intentionally because I was worried the shroud would interfere with the upper and lower radiator hoses, as it got very close to them. I don't think it will affect cooling, as it is not twisted very much...
all mounted up!
also, all this came in the box with the fans... from Amazon. I did not ask for this, nor did it give me the option to choose, it just came. I will be using the controller. Also bought a sensor for cheap for the fans, because they did not come with one, and I had the option between the one that sticks between the fins of the radiator or this one, I chose this one. And oh, that black thing that goes in the radiator hose that the probe screws into, was dirt cheap too.
finally, got the new, low temp oil t-stats from Rotary performance. Very expensive, but the quality seems better then OEM
Of course the mounting holes don’t line up. It’s a universal fan & shroud kit with a radiator that has mounting holes specifically for the OE shroud & fans. You should use the aftermarket pins to mount it just like all the threads on here tell you to do.
you dang younguns can’t be bothered with details lol
yea, I kind of figured that... I did a little bit of searching, but obviously not enough
The stainless lock wire (that is what I used) actually works really well, and there is almost no play in it (yes, I realize there should not be any...). I think it will be fine... it is not under any crazy stresses, and even if it was, the radiator would break before the shroud or the wire. I am looking into getting the proper hardware, but I cannot seem to find any info or links. I will do more searching...
also, a random question: does having the fans on while driving at say, 60 mph affect the airflow, if so, then how? I know having them on a low speed will reduce the airflow, but what about high?
What is your underlying concern about the fans moving at speed?
Why do you think having them on low will reduce airflow? (I assume you mean reduce airflow relative to them being off.)
I had the FAL420 on my '8 and they didn't magically disappear when turned off so I don't see how they'd be any less of an airflow restriction off versus low.
Last edited by NotAPreppie; 02-20-2020 at 08:32 PM.
Nothing really, more of a curiosity... When I overheated, I had done the "fans on low" mod (so my fans ran on low speed 100% of the time), which helped with the temps in traffic, but obviously not at speed, so I cannot help but wonder about the fans on high when moving. are they bringing in enough air that it does not matter, or will it inhibit the flow because they are not bringing in enough air? I assume there would be a point that even the fans on high would reduce the airflow, around what speed would that happen (how high? 70mph? 80mph? 120mph?).
You had to run the fans all the time to keep the engine cool at low speeds? You had an underlying problem. Either the water channels in your radiator were partially blocked, one of your fan motors was dead, or something else.
At highway speeds, you're flowing more air than the fans can provide. But, the fans are present regardless of vehicle speed so they are always an obstruction. Having the electric motors running low vs off or high vs low might reduce their obstructive nature but will never eliminate it. This is why some expensive fan shrouds have flaps that open (see here).
Yes, I did have an underlying problem... I am not sure what, but the cooling system was 100% original, on a 2006 with 100k miles, I am sure that did not help things. I am going to be completely redoing my entire cooling system with this rebuild, hence the new radiator and fan (and much more).
I kind of figured that, and I like the idea of the flaps, but I could not stomach that much money for a fan shroud that flows less than the one I have... That is what I was wondering, what setting is the least obstructive? like I said, not essential knowledge, just something I am curious about.
In absolute terms, I would expect the drag from the fans would be greater if you add in the drag from the fan motors not being powered that if you powered the motor.
To put it another way, with the fans unpowered, it's only the airflow through the radiator that will be forcing them to spin. The motion of the fans represents energy being expended (losses to bearings, moving magnetic fields, etc). That energy has to come from the air moving through the radiator and fans.
With the fans powered, the air and the electricity will be moving them. That means the air needs to do less work for a given rotational speed of the fans.
In relative terms, it shouldn't make a noticeable difference unless there's something not working correctly in the system (missing undertray or blocking foam).
Ok, that makes sense; now I can't help but go a bit deeper
The fan motors are obviously pulling air through the radiator (assuming fans on high here). There is a certain speed at which the fans are pulling less than is naturally flowing through the radiator, so even having the fans on high becomes an obstruction. When does that occur?
I saw his thread on the water pump... it was fascinating, part of the reason why I did not get a REmedy pump (that and the fact that I will probably never go to the track, maybe some autocrossing).
it will always flow better with the fans running; the faster, the better. You just may not need to run them above a certain speed to have adequate cooling. Which turning them off reduces alternator load and provides slightly better mileage/power output.
also, a random question: does having the fans on while driving at say, 60 mph affect the airflow, if so, then how? I know having them on a low speed will reduce the airflow, but what about high?
The affect of running the fans at speed is curious, but of little practical relevance.
As h/b eluded to earlier...the fans are a component of the overall cooling system. For a properly designed, well maintained "system"..., rad is properly sealed, etc....; then at speed...ambient air flow s/b sufficient to achieve and maintain coolant temps within acceptable range. The objective of fans is to generate air flow across the rad precisely when not at speed, e.g. stop & go traffic, stopped at RR x'ing, etc., or to compensate for failing other system components.
If fans are activating at speed..., there's likely some other systemic issue needing resolution, e.g. t-stat, pump, blocked or poorly sealed rad., etc
What he said isn’t correct per my previous reply, these cars have known cooling issues for various reasons not always due to basic cooling system faults. The factory pcm has a programmed speed to turn them off.
Then I’ve pretty much given up trying to talk sensibly on this subject. The block-the-radiator-in blockheads still can’t see the obvious; turning on the fans and creating a lesser path of resistance for air to flow. How does anyone with a basic understanding of things conclude that a running fan is blocking more airflow than a non-running fan? Well, that person doesn’t.
again, the greatest flow through a radiator with direct-mounted electric fans is going to be with the fans running; the faster, the better. ALWAYS!
What he said isn’t correct per my previous reply, these cars have known cooling issues for various reasons not always due to basic cooling system faults. The factory pcm has a programmed speed to turn them off....
It is, and it does, which doesn't involve constantly running fans when at speed...unless tracking or auto-x. Fans are appropriately temperature controlled.
Please advise on "known cooling issues" not associated w/ cooling system component(s) failure / fault.
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
Then I’ve pretty much given up trying to talk sensibly on this subject. The block-the-radiator-in blockheads still can’t see the obvious; turning on the fans and creating a lesser path of resistance for air to flow. How does anyone with a basic understanding of things conclude that a running fan is blocking more airflow than a non-running fan? Well, that person doesn’t....
Of course, this is a straw-man mis-characterization of my response. I didn't address the question of whether constantly operating the fans at speed increases flow or not. It will..., but is a bit like running AC in the winter .
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
...again, the greatest flow through a radiator with direct-mounted electric fans is going to be with the fans running; the faster, the better. ALWAYS!
In cooler ambient temps I have difficulty achieving and maintaining my TURBO 8 at operating temp when at speed, and d/t "systemic" work I've done I get so much airflow thru my rad / IC into the eng bay that my hood occasionally pops. W/b silly t/b running fans at the same time .
Again, constantly running fans while at speed won't harm anything..., but is unnecessary on a properly designed and component appointed cooling system ...not being designed for harsh use.
02-10-2020, 07:23 PM
I kind of figured it might cause some minor issues... if the engine runs, and does not leave me stranded, then I'm happy
lol
maybe... 
I didn't address the question of whether constantly operating the fans at speed increases flow or not. It will..., but is a bit like running AC in the winter 
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