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Mizu Cooling Solutions Rad/Fan Pack install

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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 10:01 AM
  #126  
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You can use my Mizu shroud, it is just sitting there. I have the upgraded FAL fans and a secondary radiator fan and my electronics are just fine. Now if you go adding crazy stereo **** then yeah for sure.

I think it's more how it gets wired up. Think about people like Dannobre who have a diff cooler pump, trans cooler pump, electric water pump, etc., etc. and have no issues. Those pumps draw a lot more amps than fans do.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 11:36 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
You can use my Mizu shroud, it is just sitting there. I have the upgraded FAL fans and a secondary radiator fan and my electronics are just fine. Now if you go adding crazy stereo **** then yeah for sure.

I think it's more how it gets wired up. Think about people like Dannobre who have a diff cooler pump, trans cooler pump, electric water pump, etc., etc. and have no issues. Those pumps draw a lot more amps than fans do.
Amp draw is amp draw...

The less you have the better.

I wont be able to afford those fans for another year or so though LOL.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 11:51 AM
  #128  
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Yeah but if the added amp draw is a non issue then it's a non issue. We shall see on Hoss's car, he has the larger Fal's and will have two other fans as well. But if the pumps the race guys are running don't cause an issue then I doubt he will have a problem.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 01:12 PM
  #129  
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I'm confused now... Doesn't our cars have a 40amp fuse for the fans to begin with?
How would a 30amp draw stress the system?
The only "extra" current I'm pulling is 5v 2amp for my tablet. Everything else is stock. No intentions of ever adding a sound system... I much rather listen to the engine most days anyway.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 01:27 PM
  #130  
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The more current the system draws the harder the alternator works, the harder it works the more energy is required to spin it.

The more energy required = less HP and less MPG.

The alternator is capable of handling that just fine, that's not the issue. the more amps you draw at idle the more your alt will need to create causing your engine to work slightly harder, which will cause your idle temps to rise.

See where I am getting at .
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 01:40 PM
  #131  
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I don't think that is how it works, the regulator adjusts to compensate for the engine speed and voltage needed at any given time, etc. Other than at idle, the engine speed doesn't need to increase to supply sufficient voltage during normal engine operation. Meaning if you are cruising at 3,000 rpms and you turn everything on, the RPMS or load will not increase.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 01:57 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I don't think that is how it works, the regulator adjusts to compensate for the engine speed and voltage needed at any given time, etc. Other than at idle, the engine speed doesn't need to increase to supply sufficient voltage during normal engine operation. Meaning if you are cruising at 3,000 rpms and you turn everything on, the RPMS or load will not increase.
There's a reason Jeff has you turn everything on when you are doing the cruise logs .

Give this a read if you are curious.

http://www.delcoremy.com/documents/h...ite-paper.aspx
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:04 PM
  #133  
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Basically the alternator is turning fuel into energy, the more energy you need the more fuel you need.

Think of it like a house, if you turn on all your lights and AC you are using more watts/amps. the more you use the more the utility needs to feed you, the more houses their are the larger the power plant needs to be.

Same thing with a car, the power plant is the alternator, and everything that needs power is a house.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:09 PM
  #134  
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Right, did you actually read that? That is about efficiency. But that is not what you are implying. You are implying that as voltage is needed to power certain items, the alternator has to work harder, thus taking more energy from the engine to supply that voltage. That is simply not true.

At 3,000 rpm a typical alternator can supply more than enough (too much actually) voltage than is ever needed so the regulator controls what is needed. When that extra voltage is needed the alternator does not require more fuel or physical energy from the engine to supply the extra voltage, it already has the ability to provide more than enough voltage.

And my 3,000RPM example is just a number pulled out of my head, from what I have read most alternators reach max output just off idle.

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Apr 30, 2013 at 02:28 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:13 PM
  #135  
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Mizu radiator on back order on sparkplugs.com.... Just my luck.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:26 PM
  #136  
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Shady I KNOW you didnt read that....slacker!
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:32 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Right, did you actually read that? That is about efficiency. But that is not what you are implying. You are implying that as voltage is needed to power certain items, the alternator has to work harder, thus taking more energy from the engine to supply that voltage. That is simply not true.

At 3,000 rpm a typical alternator can supply more than enough (even too much) voltage than is ever needed so the regulator controls what is needed. When that extra voltage is needed the alternator does not require more fuel or physical energy from the engine to supply the extra voltage, it already has the ability to provide more than enough voltage.

And my 3,000RPM example is just a number pulled out of my head, from what I have read most alternators reach max output just off idle.
Having all the electronics on increases load to the alternator. Theres an efficiency range for our alternators I am guessing somewhere around 4500 or 5000 rpm it reaches a break even point where it starts generating excess amperage. There hasn't been enough testing done to verify this but I am super interested in finding out

Anyways as your engine speed increases the alternator output increases its a sliding scale so at 5000 rpm the output is greater than at 3500 rpm.

Anyways back to the fans, they will only be on at idle, less draw at idle, less output needed from the alternator, this keeps the car running cooler and gas consumption lower...
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:36 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
Shady I KNOW you didnt read that....slacker!
I read the last part of it... LOL

we just dont have enough data from our alternator to prove anything. A test will be needed!
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:38 PM
  #139  
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I just need a higher AMP rated Fluke
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:43 PM
  #140  
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I dont get how a fan with 5 less amps (45%) can pull 3000cfm (almost 20%) if it was that easy I think FAL would have done it
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:44 PM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
I just need a higher AMP rated Fluke
The best test would be to get on a dyno set cruise cotnrol at 3800 log for 30 seconds, then turn on the headlights, stereo, etc for 30 seconds.

If the calculate load does not increase then I am wrong.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:46 PM
  #142  
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You are wrong my friend. Stubborn and wrong, Just do some reading, most alternators reach max output at just off idle even with a full load on them. So you can increase engine speed all you want the alternator is not causing the engine to work any harder.

If I am cruising at 3,000RPM's on a flat road and I switch all my fans on, turn on the AC, turn on the radio, etc. I will see no more engine load than I already was seeing. And even if it blipped a little with the electrical load coming on all at once, the voltage regulator in the alternator would adjust and work it all out in a second.

It would take a **** load of stuff running all at the same time to get to a point where our alternator would be overloaded.

I know you won't read it but this is a good discussion about it.

http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=481577

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Apr 30, 2013 at 02:50 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:46 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
I dont get how a fan with 5 less amps (45%) can pull 3000cfm (almost 20%) if it was that easy I think FAL would have done it
It doesnt, the fan pulls 7.7 amps at 1125 CFM.

Two fans would be 15.4 amps at 2250 total CFM.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:49 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
It doesnt, the fan pulls 7.7 amps at 1125 CFM.

Two fans would be 15.4 amps at 2250 total CFM.
yea, I was ready the max output...nm

but 9k is right man...if the alternator didn't do its job right off the bat all kinds of **** would happen....fans are cool though
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 03:04 PM
  #145  
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There are zero downsides to running a larger fan set up. The only problem i can see is the draw being to much for the stock harness.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 03:11 PM
  #146  
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The stock wires are plenty big enough for higher draw fans.....if you are worried about it just wire in bigger wire from the relay to the fan and be done with it
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 03:13 PM
  #147  
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You should have posted a picture of your huge fan(s) in your post,
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 03:22 PM
  #148  
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LOL...I will start a thread about the swap I guess...had it at the track yesterday.....damn it goes like stink
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 03:31 PM
  #149  
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Do it, I am dying to see how it turned out.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 03:44 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
You should have posted a picture of your huge fan(s) in your post,
His 16" fan pulls 10 amps...

I am beating this thing till its dead.
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